Sumtoc

Looking at a '93 RSA with just over 70K miles. Don't really mind the miles since I am not collecting or buying for resale. But would like to know what is typical to expect with a car like this. Have read the other RSA threads here and still have a few questions:

1) I have read Peter Zimmerman's excellent book on used 911s and he points out some pretty major concerns about C2s "built before June 1991" including major oil leaks, clutch problems, etc. Since this is a 1993 can I assume that it does not have these problems or at least not as likely as the earlier models?

2) I understand that the clutch/flywheel in the RSA is lighter but is it likely to have the same failure as the older, heavier ones?

3) Pretty sure that the clutch is original and plan to replace soon anyway. Suggestions for a better/lighter set up with good clamping that is reasonable to use on the street and DE?

4) Is there a way to tell if the distributor belt has broken or failed and then repaired but leaving damage in the cylinders?

5) Car left the track during a DE event a couple of years ago, hit wall or retainer, front pan, hood and one fender were replaced. What should I be looking for as far as mechanical damage in that area? Symptoms?

6) Car had "60k service" performed by reputable shop. Assume it included valve adjustment and such, is that the default for 60K?

Thanks for the input.

ltc

Have you contacted KeithV at www.rsamerica.net
LOTS of good information and FAQ regarding these.
(I owned one and regret selling it)

BTW, why would you purchase a car that "left the track"?

Jim Michaels

RSAs builds started in 1992, so they don't have the early 964 problems. Early RSAs didn't have the distributor vent kit (about $10), so check the belts inside for fraying. If a distributor belt broke and caused harm to the engine, a PPI (recommended in any case) should be able to detect it. According to Adrian, all the RSAs had the LUK flywheel. I don't think it's any lighter, but it's the more reliable unit. Some have switched to a lighter flywheel, but too light causes an idle problem, which can be helped by a new chip. A 60k service should include valve adjustment.

Sumtoc

Have not actually seen the car yet, it is about 4 hours away. Conversation with the owner indicated that it was not a heavy hit but required the body work I described. Not too concerned about it as long as I understand the implications mechanically.....

Bill Gregory

The stock RSA had the stock standard 964 C2 clutch. You can install the 964 Carrera RS flywheel and clutch if you want. Parts are around $1400. Some people have problems with stalling when the engine is cold, then again, some don't . The DME chip can be tweaked to appear that the a/c is on, to minimize stalling with the light flywheel.

Regarding the track 'off' I'd want to have a body person check the frame for the proper alignment. And of course, have a pre-purchase inspection done by someone that knows 964's.

There's a 964 FAQ here where you may find some additional information of interest.

tyler

I had a guy look at the car for me last week, he told me car drove strong, repair work looked good and he even pulled up carpet under front trunk area to look at quality of repair I decided to pass on it due to many factors which I will not go into in this post.

apparently the repair work was well done, however I have the same concerns as noted above, I never could find out how much work was actually done, when I asked to see receipts for repair work my request was ignored....

I am not trying to sway you one way or another because I don't care who buys the car now that I am not looking at it

but I wish someone was up front with me before I did so much research, so hopefully this helps

Cupcar#12

is this the car in WA?

Sumtoc

Tyler, you have PM.

Cupcar

I would look under the car on a lift and not just in the trunk to see how the repairs were done. If possible talk to the shop who did repair.

Were repairs done by the factory manual method of drilling spot welds and replacing the entire panel or the cut and fit method using a clip from a donor car? Repair receipts should have part numbers for panels purchased from Porsche if done correctly.

Were repairs done on a Celette jig?

Were the suspensison mounting points affected in the repair?

Were any suspension parts replaced?

How does the suspension align, is it at the limit of an adjustment slot in order to get it into spec?

JoeW

1) What Cupcar said -- this one should have a body shop PPI as well, all that included

2) I gather there's no significant paperwork with the car. A very thorough PPI is in order -- don't forget to include leakdown/compression.

3) my impression is that you're not very familiar with these cars .... strongly recommend that, if you buy it, you drive it for a few thousand miles before changing anything major. Also, if you join the local PCA you will be able to find owners who've tried just about everything you can think of ... and will probably let you sample the results of their $$$ and effort.

Hope this helps.
Joe

Sumtoc

Thanks for all the input and suggestions. If I decide to buy this car or another 964 I will certainly rely on the experiences of other owners here before making mods as JoeW suggests. Exactly what I did for my '98 M3, and I have had good success with the mods I added.

Regardless of the particular 964 I may purchase I suspect I will replace the clutch with the RS parts. This car will not be a real daily driver and I prefer the throttle response of a lighter flywheel. Guess the stock, heavier units are for those that have trouble with a manual. My M3 had a 26+ lb fly and it response was terrible before I replaced it. It also had a "delay valve" in the clutch hydraulic line that actually retarded clutch engagement so that the "manual transmission challenged" would be less likely to kill it with the clutch. Pretty crazy for an upgraded coupe.

I was surprised to learn that the 964 cutch units are also heavy. One of the reasons I am considering moving out of the M3 to a 964 is the notion that the M3 is a coupe that has been modified to become more like a true sports car and I assumed that the 964 is a true sports car from the start. Seems odd to me that it would have these heavy flywheel/clutch combos that dull throttle response.

I prefer the more visceral, gritty feel in a sports car. Guess it is an age thing, but I just do not like the space ship feel of the newer cars. No doubt they are very fast, but I find them cold with no real personality. Kind of like sitting in a video game machine. Besides, they look more like Ford Probes than 911s to me. (Just personal opinion, not meant to insult anybody's car or preference.....)

All of this to explain my next question. What other types of 964 modifications will unlock its true character? Need to plan a potential budget for these. I will probably participate in DEs 2-3 times per year, this will not be a primary vehichle (but not a garage queen either), and the longest trip I would take in it will be 5 hours one way.

Thanks again for all the useful feedback.

Flagg

Just some quick feedback.........

I have a 1993 RSA from new, and owned a 1995 M3 for 4 1/2 years. I prefered the RSA both at driving schools on the track, autocrossing, and for the street (except for when I needed to travel with more than 2 people, or needed a big trunk).

Don't get me wrong - the M3 is wonderful - there is just something more emotional about the RSA. When I had to sell one of them, it was the newer M3 that was let go.........

Flagg

GG Allin

I traded a 95 M3 with 96,000 mi. and 11k cash for a 93 RSA 52,000 mi. w/ salvage title. No regrets here. The M3 did provide more comfort for city driving.

Sumtoc

Thanks guys, sounds like you went through the same process I am considering and for the same reasons.

Any feedback on mods to your 964s?

Flagg

Just to do it slowley. The car is pretty awesome right out of the box. You will appreciate the differences more after you are used to the car......

Just my two cents.........Flagg