Front hood latch cover problems
08-14-2002, 10:03 PM
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Front hood latch cover problems
I need a bit of help. The "hood" latch cover inside the driver's side footwell has a place for two screws. The top screw appears to be for looks only since it can't possibly connect to anything. The mechanism of the latch release itself appears to block any potential screw that could anchor it down. What I have is a cover that is only secured by the bottom screw and the top, I fear, will soon catch my foot and break in two. Any help? Photo below... Bob
08-15-2002, 02:24 AM
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Hi Bob,
Nice to see another Washingtonian on Rennlist. As to your problem - I have it as well, but sorry, no solution. Hope the list can help as I was going to by a new or used piece at some point. It appeared to me that my unit was broken and that part of the plastic missing. Perhaps this is common after a few Kicks of the foot as we exit the cars??? I am not even sure what type screws are ment to hold this on, both where missing when I got the car? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
Nice to see another Washingtonian on Rennlist. As to your problem - I have it as well, but sorry, no solution. Hope the list can help as I was going to by a new or used piece at some point. It appeared to me that my unit was broken and that part of the plastic missing. Perhaps this is common after a few Kicks of the foot as we exit the cars??? I am not even sure what type screws are ment to hold this on, both where missing when I got the car? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
08-15-2002, 03:55 AM
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I remember the first UK report of a 964 (Car Magazine, Nov. '89, I think) had interior pics showing this!
However, my top screw definitely engages with something. You could always put a dab of appropriate adhesive to hold things in place.
However, my top screw definitely engages with something. You could always put a dab of appropriate adhesive to hold things in place.
08-15-2002, 09:10 PM
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After some closer investigation, it appears as though the top screw is only used to spread an expander-clip to hold itself in place. My "expander" piece has broken and I need to replace the entire cover it seems. Unless any of you 964 wizards have a cheaper/better solution? 
08-15-2002, 10:43 PM
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Hi Bob-
I performed this very repair a couple months ago. Its a little tricky though because of a part change. In my case, the part in your photo with the arrow fell completely off (both expanders broke).
When you order the replacement part (same part no. BTW, 954.538.625.00), the backside is now ribbed with reinforcement and the expanders are too large, which doesn't allow the part to seat flush over the mechanism. I could not find a way to use the new part.
The only way to get this to work without replacing everything is to grind down what's left of the the expanders flush on the original part and buy new fasteners from the hardware store. The kind of fastener you need are the threaded sleeve with a flat base and the corresponding screw- they are called "Aluminum Screw Posts." They are sold in pairs at Lowe's or Home Depot, and have a grooved head for holding with a standard tip screwdriver, the other end is just a rounded flat cap.
You have to get the post ends inside the mechanism and out through the holes, then fit the piece back on and thread the screws into the posts. The screw end caps are too large a diameter to fit inside the holes on the part showing in your photo so you have to file them down smaller.
The hardest part is getting the post ends inside the mechanism and turned into the holes so they face out to accept the screw. What I did was run stiff wire into the holes from the outside, pull the wire through, put the post on the wire and use the wire to guide it into the hole while at same time holding the hood latch up to gain access to the area you need to work in.
I performed this very repair a couple months ago. Its a little tricky though because of a part change. In my case, the part in your photo with the arrow fell completely off (both expanders broke).
When you order the replacement part (same part no. BTW, 954.538.625.00), the backside is now ribbed with reinforcement and the expanders are too large, which doesn't allow the part to seat flush over the mechanism. I could not find a way to use the new part.
The only way to get this to work without replacing everything is to grind down what's left of the the expanders flush on the original part and buy new fasteners from the hardware store. The kind of fastener you need are the threaded sleeve with a flat base and the corresponding screw- they are called "Aluminum Screw Posts." They are sold in pairs at Lowe's or Home Depot, and have a grooved head for holding with a standard tip screwdriver, the other end is just a rounded flat cap.
You have to get the post ends inside the mechanism and out through the holes, then fit the piece back on and thread the screws into the posts. The screw end caps are too large a diameter to fit inside the holes on the part showing in your photo so you have to file them down smaller.
The hardest part is getting the post ends inside the mechanism and turned into the holes so they face out to accept the screw. What I did was run stiff wire into the holes from the outside, pull the wire through, put the post on the wire and use the wire to guide it into the hole while at same time holding the hood latch up to gain access to the area you need to work in.
08-16-2002, 04:38 AM
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Bob-
Here a few photos to illustrate.
Photo 1- this is the completed latch after reassembly. You can make out the screwheads in the two holes.
Photo 2- This photo is of the new part (which will not work) and the type of post screws I am speaking off. I originally tried this new part and had to grind the expanders flush because they are too big, but then ribs did not allow the part to seat. You can see the two ribs coming off each hole on the part
Photo 3. This photo shows the screw position as if it were installed. Note that the screw head will not seat down in the hole because its too large. You have to file the diameter down until its small enough. The post ends are actually threaded through the latch mechanism from the inside out, and then through the back of the part in question, through each hole, then screwed down from the front of the part. That's the bitch in this whole thing.
Hope this helps.
Jon
Here a few photos to illustrate.
Photo 1- this is the completed latch after reassembly. You can make out the screwheads in the two holes.
Photo 2- This photo is of the new part (which will not work) and the type of post screws I am speaking off. I originally tried this new part and had to grind the expanders flush because they are too big, but then ribs did not allow the part to seat. You can see the two ribs coming off each hole on the part
Photo 3. This photo shows the screw position as if it were installed. Note that the screw head will not seat down in the hole because its too large. You have to file the diameter down until its small enough. The post ends are actually threaded through the latch mechanism from the inside out, and then through the back of the part in question, through each hole, then screwed down from the front of the part. That's the bitch in this whole thing.
Hope this helps.
Jon
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08-16-2002, 04:50 AM
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Bob-
I don't think the molly would work. The reason for the flat top sleeved screw it because the latch has to clear it when it moves up opening the front bonnet. There is little on the latch side to hold the molly and it could not stick out on the inside of the latch more than a mm or two.
Take a look at this photo. I'm holding the latch up so you can see inside. The thickness you have to work with is between the red arrows. That's likely not enough to hold a molly, especially when it cannot stick out into the latch area as the latch part I am holding up has to have enough clearance.
Jon
I don't think the molly would work. The reason for the flat top sleeved screw it because the latch has to clear it when it moves up opening the front bonnet. There is little on the latch side to hold the molly and it could not stick out on the inside of the latch more than a mm or two.
Take a look at this photo. I'm holding the latch up so you can see inside. The thickness you have to work with is between the red arrows. That's likely not enough to hold a molly, especially when it cannot stick out into the latch area as the latch part I am holding up has to have enough clearance.
Jon
08-17-2002, 02:13 AM
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Jon! Thank you for going the "extra mile" on this and helping me. Your directions and photos are excellent. I purchased the posts and screws today and plan to have it all working on Sunday.
