Chip install on 93 RSA
01-14-2005, 02:12 PM
#1
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Chip install on 93 RSA
I'm trying to install a chip on a 93 RSA. The problem I'm running into is separating the cicuit boards(unsandwiching them) The opposite side of the boards from the ribbon seems to slide into the plug housing . Is there a way to release it or does it just pull out. I don't want to force it. 
01-14-2005, 03:15 PM
#2
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Please do a Search, the info is in the archives. It's been a while since I've swapped chips so I can't give you specifics off the top of my head. I CAN, however, confirm that there is a way to separate everything without using much force.
01-14-2005, 05:35 PM
#3
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There is one trick to separating the circuit boards; after you unlock the two plastic clips on the connector push the ribbon cable outward and away from the pcb. Normally the ribbon cable is shaped like a { with part of the cable sitting between the two boards. If you "flip" the { so that the hump of the ribbon cable looks like } the boards will separate.
Code:
-----
=: {
-----
-----
=: }
-----
=:
----- ~ -----
01-14-2005, 05:52 PM
#4
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That's a good explanation. I'll try it when I get home. I hope it works. It would suck to break one or both of the boards. If anyone else has experience with this please don't hold back.
01-15-2005, 12:10 PM
#5
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I did a quick Search and here's a good thread with images:
Chip installation
From another thread, here are some instructions written by Schubee:
Good luck! 
Chip installation
From another thread, here are some instructions written by Schubee:
-Disconnect the battery
-Disconnect the 55 pin connector at the DME box located under the driver's seat by flipping the metal lever away from the connector
-With the drivers seat slid all the way back, remove the DME box (4 nuts)
-Open the DME box by bending the metal flaps open. You don't have to undo the Torx screws for this.
- Remove the cover
- You will see two PCB sandwiched together with soldering sides facing outside.
- Carefully pry the boards apart by 1/2 inch at the side where the gray flat ribbon cable is located. The plastic posts will snap apart.
Now comes the difficult step separating the two boards:
If you look into the black male connector you will see three rows of metal pins. Two rows belong to the lower board and are fixed in the connector housing. The third row belongs to the upper board and can slide out of the connector. It is secured by two tiny plastic tabs. To remove it you have to gently tilt the upper board by stretching the ribbon cable and at the same time use a little flat screwdriver bending the plastic tabs inside the connector inwards. The upper row of pins will tilt towards the center row and the plastic tabs won't catch any longer. Now you can slide the upper board out of the connector housing and fold the two boards apart.
The original chip has a plastic cover to secure it to the socket. A small screw driver inserted into the slits alongside the plastic cover will allow you to remove it.
You will see a ceramic chip with 28 pins and a silver sticker on it. Note where the notch is located and pry it out of the socket with a small screw driver. Be careful not to bend the pins too much in the process.
Insert the new chip into the socket making sure none of the pins bend.
Hope this helps:
-Disconnect the 55 pin connector at the DME box located under the driver's seat by flipping the metal lever away from the connector
-With the drivers seat slid all the way back, remove the DME box (4 nuts)
-Open the DME box by bending the metal flaps open. You don't have to undo the Torx screws for this.
- Remove the cover
- You will see two PCB sandwiched together with soldering sides facing outside.
- Carefully pry the boards apart by 1/2 inch at the side where the gray flat ribbon cable is located. The plastic posts will snap apart.
Now comes the difficult step separating the two boards:
If you look into the black male connector you will see three rows of metal pins. Two rows belong to the lower board and are fixed in the connector housing. The third row belongs to the upper board and can slide out of the connector. It is secured by two tiny plastic tabs. To remove it you have to gently tilt the upper board by stretching the ribbon cable and at the same time use a little flat screwdriver bending the plastic tabs inside the connector inwards. The upper row of pins will tilt towards the center row and the plastic tabs won't catch any longer. Now you can slide the upper board out of the connector housing and fold the two boards apart.
The original chip has a plastic cover to secure it to the socket. A small screw driver inserted into the slits alongside the plastic cover will allow you to remove it.
You will see a ceramic chip with 28 pins and a silver sticker on it. Note where the notch is located and pry it out of the socket with a small screw driver. Be careful not to bend the pins too much in the process.
Insert the new chip into the socket making sure none of the pins bend.
Hope this helps:
01-15-2005, 01:05 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Thanks JasonAndreas, reversing the fold in the ribbon is definitely the trick to separating the boards. The only Problem now is that the chip that is allready in there has the date 4-4-98 written on it. This car is a 93. No brand name on it. Just some sort of codes and that date. The new one that I bought is an Autothority. I guess I'll have to try them both to see which one's better.
01-15-2005, 04:42 PM
#7
Technical Guru
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What are the codes on the label? If you prefer the Autothority chip and you want to know who makes your older chip I can read/dump it and send it back to you the next day.
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01-15-2005, 05:12 PM
#8
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It has a small, square, blue and silver label that has N D A printed on it vertically. Next to the N it has written ' WIN. ' Next to the D ' +Z/5 ' Next to the A ' 4-4-98 ' And at the bottom 06DD is written.