Dunasso

The pics really give insight to what's actually involved in the clutch change; good job Racer Greg.

964porschedude

When I lift my car for maintenance, I jack all corners. I bring all the wheels off the ground about 3 inches.

I jack at the factory lifting points and place the jack stands under the inner suspension pivots in the front and under the trailing arm near the wheel in the rear.

I place the jack stand under the trailing arm at the flat spot with a hole it by the wheel.

For engine/trans removal, I perform the following additional steps.

Jack using the aft jack points and two floor jacks to raise it to a height that your third floor jack can reach under the engine/trans.

To determine the proper height, I measure the height of the jack, any cribbing, minus an inch for good measure.

I then lower the engine to my dolly and raise the car enough to get the engine out from under the rear valance. Once the engine is out I lower the car to a reasonable height.

I have single handedly removed and installed both my 964 and my 911T engine/transmissions with this procedure.

JasonAndreas

You'll be surprised how quickly you can get the engine & tranny out the second time you do it. My brand-new release fork/bearing was defective so I had the pleasure of dropping my engine last night (for the second time in a month ) Using two hydraulic jacks and the Sears ATV jack I dropped the motor by myself in a little over 3 hours. My first time took just as long as yours. The temperature hovering around 27F probably had a lot to do with me getting it done so quickly. If there is a next time and my oil lines aren't seized then I could probably do it in two hours.

If anyone is considering this but their uncomfortable jacking the car up so high and at such an extreme angle (it looks a lot worse in pictures than it does in real life) you can remove the top of the motor (intake manifold) and rear bumper and then you only need 18" of clearance. I did that the first time, the second time I just lifted the rear end up skyward (using 2 jacks, 4 chocks and 4 jackstands) I put the pallet that my air compressor was delivered on between the ATV jack and the motor, the tranny & engine combination was balanced perfectly.

In the transmission tunnel there is VERY little space. Its doable but not easy. The transmission has to be close to 250 pounds and maneuvering it around the half shafts and mating it to the engine which would have to be angled downward would be really difficult with everything on jacks and jackstands. The only benefit is that you wouldn't need to drain your oil. I guess it would be a lot easier with a real lift. There aren't really a whole lot of things that need to be disconnected in the engine compartment and once you get the nerve up to do this it is really easy to just drop the motor.

racergreg

Yes, the combination of age, heat, and the swaged nut made them really tough. We hammered on them for several minutes with an impact wrench, and then finally got them to move with a long breaker bar.

racergreg

We used the jacking points in front of the wheel well, with jack stands under the control arms for safety. The problem with using the control arms for jacking is that it takes several inches just to contract the suspension, leaving you less inches of lift.

We chocked the front wheels, and though the car was at a big angle, it was very stable.

chris walrod

Part of the reason we dropped the whole enchilada was that we wanted to change the plugs and the p/s belt. Plus it was good to have a close look at the backside of the engine, for good measure.

I have dropped just the trans in the past, but had a hell of a time getting the trans to seat onto the engine. To me, its easier to bite the bullet and drop the whole assy.

Yes, those rear engine mount nuts were ON there. We had my snap-on 3' breaker bar plus a floorjack handle on those suckers and it was all we could do to crack those loose. Turns out, the engine mount plate got bent near where the barrel is welded to the flat plate. Wow they were tight