andrew911

You know the charge-o-mat is the "good kind" since Porsche has their name on it The red charging light on the charger goes on when you first plug it in- maybe even for a couple of days. Then you'll notice no red light. If you open the door, the red light goes on in a couple of seconds since it sense the drop in charge (if you just open then close the door after a few seconds, the red light goes off in a few minutes since not much charge was lost). The fact that the red light initially stays on for maybe a day or two means it must be charging it slowly. It's really probably the ideal "battery maintainer" for a Porsche (or other cars if its compatible). Especially since you just plug it into the lighter outlet. You even leave the window cracked for the wire, so you kill 2 winter storage birds with one stone

Boy, I remember writing about this topic last fall, and dreading the long winter with salt filled roads. And here we are again! Can't wait until spring

Johan K

Two Qs:

(i) This thing with the gas breaking down during winter storage. To what extent does gas really break down during lets say a 5 months storage? I can't remember experiencing any noticable rough running when starting up my car after winter storage.

(ii) Bill: why will a battery discharge if stored directly on a concrete floor?

Thanks guys for all the helpful storage tips!

andrew911

(i) I have never had a problem with what has been on average about a 4-5 month storage with regards to gas. I have heard problems from other people, and just recently had a problem with my lawn mower (which happens to be air-cooled as well ) due to bad gas. I don't know if moisture got in, or if the gas got old (it may have been the prior year's gas in the can). Anyway, after using the "Stabil" additive, the mower actually cleared itself up! I was going to have to remove the carb, but the stabil actually has additives to help clean carbs/injection, I believe helps to reduce moisture buildup in the gas, and also obviously stabilizes the gas to make it last longer. Even though I never had or noticed a problem with my car after the winter, after my experiece and from what I've heard from others, as well as the cheap cost of Stabil, I will be using it for the first time this year in the porsche. I'll drive the tank low, add it, drive a bit and store the car. In the spring, I'll probably drive the tank low that has the stabil in it, and re-fuel. At the first re-fueling or 2nd I'll probably run through some Chevron Techron additive (not Chevron gas, the concentrated fuel injection cleaner that comes in the black bottle)

(ii) I have heard about batteries discharging on the floor and never understood it either. Perhaps it has to do with the coldness of the floor just making the battery lose it's charge faster than if it were a few degrees warmer?

Boy how I hate this discussion topic- it's so depressing

Jay H

I'm not sure where I read it, so take it for what's it's worth... Non-reformulated fuel has a 'shelf life' of about 3 months. Reformulated fuel (the boutique fuels that we have in my area that 'supposedly' help reduce emmissions) has a shelf life of about 1 month. I guess after that time period, the fuel starts to break down.

After years of life on a farm (with 9 tractors and a diesel combine to maintain), I know that old gas is really a pain. Hard starts and lack of power were always problems when we had motors using fuel that was 8-12 months (or more) old. We never knew about fuel stabilizers...and sometimes starting motors that had sat was a chore.

I think if you have a storage period of under 3 months and don't have reformulated gas in your area, you probably won't need a fuel stabilizer. I dump fuel stabilizer into everything for winter. Lawm mowers, weed wacker, cars, etc. My 964 sits from October to April or May. It's amazing how well the car starts in spring.

In case you're curious, here is some info on Stabil from the manufacturer's site:

Link to FAQ on Stabil

Again, I have no affiliation, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc,... A quick internet search will give a ton of info as to what happens to fuel as it sits and ages.

I've used other fuel stabilizers too (from STP, I think, that was less $$), so Stabil isn't the only stuff on the market.

Not sure if this helps or not...

Jay
90 964

andrew911

Good link Jay! Stabil is good, cheap insurance (I have no affiliation with the company either). It's the cheapest thing I think I'll ever buy for the porsche I picked some up at Wal Mart- just a few bucks a bottle, which treats a lot of gas.

springer3

Fuel storage is a problem because for several reasons:

1) Water condensation and other contamination (rust from the tank)

2) Evaporation of the lighter hydrocarbons, leaving only the heavy stuff behind.

3) Chemical reactions similar to polymerization, where the large hydrocarbon chains that were "cracked" at the refinery join back together, forming gum and varnish.

I don't store any cars, but I store a tractor, lawn mowers, and boats over the winter. I stopped having fuel problems when I started adding Stabil before storage. I also use fogging oil to at the final shutdown. I don't know if it does any good, but have not had corrosion problems. I would use Stabil if I stored the car. I am not sure I would spray the fogging oil (worry about oiling the sensors and the air flap).

tafkai

i think they're about £30.00 !!!!
see classic car forums/stores/ magazines

you say a heated garage is too dry , do you know what the de-humidify means !!
i managed to "acquire" from work a relative humidity meter on the recommendation of a classic car specialist . cannot remember , i have details at home , but there is a certain range to be maintained . too humid you can have rust problems , de-humididy too much and you dry everything out .
the constant air-flow was also something to do with this if i remember .
if i remeber right , i was told to have vents at both ends of the garage , one in , one out , and the dehumidifyer connected to the in with the waste plumbed outside . and to check the meter and adjust the timer on the dehumidifyer to try to stabalise the relative .
this was to do with taking SOME moisture out of the incoming air , rather than dehumidifying the whole room , including the car .
the advice that i got was that it is better to use no dehumidifyer than to use one wrongly .

re: axle stands .
mainly to do with the tyres getting stress flat-spots or something like that !!!
but ........... do 964 replacement shocks and springs come off the porsche shelf compressed ???
no , so why will storing a car over winter "off weight" damage them !!!!!
if you really are worried about this , you could support the tub on axle stands then jack each wish-bone up slightly ??
maybe even place the axle-stands under the wishbones , thus compressing your struts and springs a little more than they are when connected to a car up in the air ??

i am , by far , not an expert on this subject , but much information is out there on the net , i went with what is in my memory , could be way off the mark

Johan K

Thanx for the replies guys and great link Jay! I'll try to find some of that stabilizing stuff. Not sure if STA-BIL is available in Sweden though, but there must be some equivalent. I've just got to force a couple of ounces of that stuff into my already overfilled gas tank.

I'm still curious about the battery on concrete floor drain situation. What's the deal Bill? Is it due to the coldness of the floor? Theoretically a concrete floor might just as well be too warm...

botoo

Below is a link to information about storing a battery on a concrete floor, by Interstate Batteries. They say it's a myth and it does not discharge a battery.

http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content...3R3148XS2&js=1

Jay H

Rich:

Great link from Interstate. Interesting how they recommend keeping your battery clean to keep it from discharging. Something I've always done and believed in.

BTW, nice choice in 964's! Baltic Blue seems to be more common than I thought.

Jay
My '90

Johan K

Again a great link! Thanx Rich! I guess we'll have to invoke the "Bill Clause" then...