Ignition switch failed
10-02-2004, 01:30 PM
#1
Racer
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Ignition switch failed
This morning as I inserted the key into the ignition switch and turning the key it seemed to offer no resistance. Also nothing works. No lights on the dash, no starter. Can anyone tell me how to remove this switch. I did a search but no real answer. TIA 
10-02-2004, 05:23 PM
#2
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Hi Roy, Khadmus did a post a while back regarding his ignition lock. I believe there is an allen-head set-screw that needs to be removed from the portion on the outside of the dash, to remove that large ring. Once the ring is removed, everything should come out. That's my take on it! Look for the small hole on the outside of the ring to remove that allen-head screw. Once that comes off, I bet the switch will poke backwards through the dash to get access.
10-02-2004, 08:00 PM
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Good luck getting the upper screw off!
As you probably realize already, the electrical part of the switch isn't too expensive. The mechanical part is $pricey$. Your problem sounds like the electrical part. Had mine replaced a few years ago, though my symptoms weren't as drastic. Things like the interior fan cutting out, being able to make the fan cut in and out by jiggling the keys.
As you probably realize already, the electrical part of the switch isn't too expensive. The mechanical part is $pricey$. Your problem sounds like the electrical part. Had mine replaced a few years ago, though my symptoms weren't as drastic. Things like the interior fan cutting out, being able to make the fan cut in and out by jiggling the keys.
10-03-2004, 07:37 AM
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It bears repeating that a lot of ignition switch problems result from heavy key rings. Don't keep more than one or two other keys on the same ring, and it eliminates a lot of problems. One of your previous owners probably kept all the house and business keys on the same ring.
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10-03-2004, 10:43 AM
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Does this switch have separate mechanical and electrical components? I'm wondering if I will now have key issues. Does anyone know if the ignition switch can be re-keyed?
10-03-2004, 11:10 AM
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Hey Roy,
Yup, there's definitely an electrical and mechanical part. You should be able to find an example of each by looking in a handy catalog (e.g., Performance Products).
The electrical part isn't too hard to remove, other than getting to the upper phillips head screw. There are only two phillips head screws holding it on. You also need to remove the central informer to get at it (make sure the battery is disconnected).
To be honest, I gave up on getting the upper screw off on my switch, turned the job over to Andial. According to the service advisor at Andial, "it takes about 3 tools" to get the upper screw off. But, Arjan managed. Then again, he's a professional mechanic
.
I would think jiggling the key would do something for you, if your problem lies with the electrical portion. My switch felt much more solid after the new electrical part was installed, where before it felt relatively sloppy and loose.
Yup, there's definitely an electrical and mechanical part. You should be able to find an example of each by looking in a handy catalog (e.g., Performance Products).
The electrical part isn't too hard to remove, other than getting to the upper phillips head screw. There are only two phillips head screws holding it on. You also need to remove the central informer to get at it (make sure the battery is disconnected).
To be honest, I gave up on getting the upper screw off on my switch, turned the job over to Andial. According to the service advisor at Andial, "it takes about 3 tools" to get the upper screw off. But, Arjan managed. Then again, he's a professional mechanic
.I would think jiggling the key would do something for you, if your problem lies with the electrical portion. My switch felt much more solid after the new electrical part was installed, where before it felt relatively sloppy and loose.
10-05-2004, 08:40 AM
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OK, I'm still not sure how to proceed here. As I said, the key feels like it is turning in water. No notches or key positions. Does anyone know if this would be a failure of the electrical part of the ignition, or of the actual lock. I don't want to drill out the two shear bolts that hold the lock in if I don't need to. I don't mind tearing into it, but don't want to do something that doesn't need to be done. TIA.
10-05-2004, 09:36 AM
#11
I would be surprised if the problem is the electrical part from your description. I had problems with my electrical part - the mechanical part was fine, but I could sometimes get warning lights on the clocks after I'd got out of the car and closed the door (with the keys in my hand).
From what you say, it sounds like the mechanical part is dead. Even if the electrics die I wouldn't expect it to affect how it feels when you turn the key - it just means nothing happens (or the wrong things happen) when you turn the key.
From what you say, it sounds like the mechanical part is dead. Even if the electrics die I wouldn't expect it to affect how it feels when you turn the key - it just means nothing happens (or the wrong things happen) when you turn the key.
