Okay... I haven't changed the oil in my "Garage Queen" for almost a year. I put about 2500 miles a year on it... maybe a little bit more. An oil change was called for. (I know... I should have done this sooner!) I searched all the threads here again... even though it's a pretty simple procedure. I just wanted to see if there was any additional info or tips that I haven't seen since last year. So... Here's what I did...

1. Per a previous post a few years old, I layed out a plastic tarp to cover the garage floor. (Great idea!)

2. I was able to fit my oil drain pan under the car without jacking it up... But just barely! I loosened the drain pan bolt and let the crankcase drain for an hour or so.

3. I punched a hole in the oil filter to allow it to drain into the resevoir.

4. After the crankcase was finished draining I moved the drain pan to the side. I did have to jack up the car just a little to get the pan underneath the car. Someone here had an excellent idea a while back... If you undo the drain bolt on the resevoir to where it's almost ready to come out... Then use your wrench to hold the bolt against the drain bolt hole to control the flow... It doesn't come out like a texas oil well! (Kudos to the person who thought of that). It took about 2 minutes of holding it in place but I directed all of the oil into my pan. (I have the type drain pan with the drain hole in the top.) After it slowed down I let it drain for an hour or so... The strange thing was... And this has never happened before... When I originally loosened the drainpan bolt on the resevoir... About 2 - 3 CCs of water dripped out before the oil started coming out. I assume that it was just condensation that built up over this past humid summer and/or the end of last winter.
5. I unscrewed the old filter and put it in the drain pan to finish draining... I made sure the old rubber seal was not stuck there. I cleaned the filter attachment housing and filled the new filter with about 1/2 quart of oil to help it fill upon start-up. I installed the new filter... Hand tight plus a 1/3 - 1/2 turn.
6. I put in 6 quarts of oil. I started it and let it run at idle for about 2 minutes. I stopped it and added another 2 quarts. At this time I started it again and slowly took it around the block... Almost at idle speed. I wanted to warm it up so the thermostat opened. I pulled it back into the garage and checked the dipstick. It was registering... But a half an inch below the "lower" mark.
9. I referred to the manual. It states that the difference between the upper and lower mark is 1.8 quarts. I put in another quart... It was still low and just barely into the lower area. I figured it would probably take about another 1 1/2 quarts. (This is where I made my mistake!) I assumed that it was going to take the 1 1/2 quarts... So I figured I would add another quart and check the level. When I did this I was surprised to see that it was over the high level!!! In other cars where I change the oil... Sometime the oil in the dipstick tube gets on the dipstick and the reading is not entirely accurate. I figured this was the case here. I took it for a 5 mile spin... Keeping the revs low.. Just letting it slowly warm up.

When I got back an checked the level... I saw that it was about a 1/2 an inch over he "upper" mark!!! I've heard stories about overfilling the crankcase of a flat six... In some threads I've read, if it's just a little overfilled, some people just let it blow out and let the car "find it's own level." In other cases I've read where this can cause all sorts of problems! So... I have two questions...

A. Was the water that trickled out prior to the oil draining out something that others have experienced? (The drain pan bolt wasn't corroded at all) I imagine that it happened because I let it go a little too long between changes... But I'd like to hear some opinions please.

B. What should I do about the slight overfill? I figure I can do one of three things... Let it blow out... Slip a thin tube into the resevoir and siphon a little oil out... Or loosen the drainpan bolt and remove about 1/2 quart of oil.

I would appreciate any comments that anyone may have. I'd like to do something with it this weekend... It's supposed to be beautiful next week so I'll be driving it.

Thanks in advance!

Rick

 

If you don't use your car often, you don't burn off the condensation that can occur. A seldom driven car often has issues with corrosion from water in the crankcase and valve train. Bottom line - not a strange occurrence, but not a favorable one either - drive that car more!!!

Regarding the overfill, as I've recommended before, drain it from the thermostat housing when the engine is COLD so you can slowly remove oil, and not make a mess. It's really easy that way.

Good luck and go driving!

 

Ditto everything Garrett says. Be sure you drive a long distance on the last trip before putting the car back into storage - that will ensure all water is driven off. I always run the last 3 or 4 miles with the heat on max to get any moisture out of the ducts. It gets rid of the wet socks smell.

Storage condensation occurs when the oil and metal parts cool off during the overnight chill. Warm moist air entering the garage the next afternoon comes into contact with the still-cold car. Condensation and retained moisture is a problem with the interior as well. A dehumidifyer in the garage makes a huge difference for moisture-related problems. If you won't spring for the dehumidifyer, at least leave a low-wattage lamp under the engine. Just a little heat is enough to keep things warm enough to prevent condensation. Electricity cost for a 25 Watt bulb running 24/7 is less than $2/month, assuming your electricity cost is 10 cents per kWh. Disclaimer: I do work in the electric industry, but I don't think that clouds my judgement in this case!

 

Both excellent replies... Kind of what I was expecting I guess. Springer... That's a great idea with the light bulb. I really don't store the car for the winter. If there is a clear day I take it out. When I do take it out... It's usually for a 40 - 60 mile drive minimum.

Garrett... You are EXACTLY right. I need to drive it more! I am on the road a lot with my job... Literally. I am, at present, a bank rep and have the states of VA & MD to cover. I really don't have a problem with traffic in MD... But when I have to tangle with the Capital Beltway... I leave the Porsche in the garage. Anyone close to this area knows what I'm talking about. Traffic is a nightmare. You'll end up with left leg muscles three times normal size! You almost need a Tiptronic in this area (blasphemey to some... I know)

I'll just have to run it more...

 

I don't think a few drops of water from the reservior is unusual. I too have a little water, the same as you, when I drain my oil.

 

During the winter Jan/Feb in Iowa I have found that there can be a considerable build up of water in the oil tank, up to 60ml. With an outside air temp in the 0's F and work and back driving during the week there is no way to avoid it. It is however really simple to open the drain bolt a tad and drain the water weekly.