tonytaylor

Bill,

Are you aware of any maintanance or "premature" wear ( when compared with original rubber) of these monoballs?

RSAErick

Bill,
I can't seem to find a web page for ERP. Do you have any contact information. It would be interesting to see what products they offer.

Thanks.

Bill Gregory

Tony,

There's no maintenance you can do to the monoballs. If there's a downfall, they are not sealed, so eventually grit can work it's way into the monoball. One thought is to seal them with the type of liquid rubber/plastic that's used on tool handles. A concern I've heard raised is that they can be negatively affected by driving over pot holes in the street. I put mine in at the end of last year, and, knock on my head, have no issues, and only praise, thus far.

Bill Gregory

They make some marvelous, pricey, parts. However, I'm not aware of a web site. Smart Racing (www.smartracingproducts.com) sells them (their 2003 PDF online catalog may show better pictures, it's under PDF instructions), as does Performance Products (although even the 15% PCA discount may not help much, as they seem quite marked up there. Look at their closeout sale on their web site, as I tripped across the fronts at a reasonable discount last fall), and believes TRG sells them too. There are others that sell them too.....

Bill Gregory

Here are some shots of the front bushings, don't have any of the rear. The brown spacers are aluminum pieces.








And while I'm in the picture library, here's a shot of the Cup fork that goes in between the steering rack and tie rod. Stock on top, Cup fork on the bottom. Difference is the hardness of the rubber in the middle of the donut. To give you a comparison, on the stock part, there's enough compliance in the bushing that, by pushing on each end in the horizontal plane (they are made to move in the vertical plane, which, in the picture, would be towards the camera) I could flex the two parts. Couldn't do the same with the Cup fork.

RSAErick

Thanks for the info, Bill. And great shots of your trick parts. I'm very envious.

Arjan B.

Jens........ Sorry for the late reply.
I was busy with our new drive way, took 3 days of work.


To let your rotors look new, take a piece of sand paper and remove as much as possible the rust. Take a de degreaser like thinner or brake cleaner and clean the surfaces which will be painted. Take a zinc spray aerosol and paint the surfaces. [PROTECT THE AREA OF WHERE THE PADS MAKE CONTACT] If a bit of spray came on that area, please remove it with some degreaser on a peice of cotton [old t-shirt for examp.]
You will se how nicde it looks.

Jeff Curtis

Erick, buy a set of 10 - 56mm in length wheelstuds through Pelican Parts and either get ahold of me or lookup my wheelstud installation procedure in "the book"...although I'm not certain it made the final editing process, can't find it!

The wheelstuds should cost you ~$50 and some shipping charges...the installation is fairly simple, but requires removal of your rear calipers/rotors.

This will allow for 6mm VERY safely, and up to 9mm and you'll be within PCA Club Racing or most other organization's specs for on track safety...with regards to FULL thread contact with lugnuts.

The rubbing you have pictured is certainly indicative of one of two things...car is too low for the rate of the springs that are installed, or your toe is out of whack on that side.

I would vote for the too low issue, after viewing your alignment settings, and by your own admission that it may be too low.

Keep in mind, the right side of the car is about 1/4" further "out", so while the left side may be ok with 3mm spacers, it won't cut the mustard on the left side...6mm is what I use, more if using 275 series Hoosiers at the rear.

My new Fikses are 48 or 49mm offset (from memory) so I no longer have to use two 6mm spacers on that side, just one. ...they fit, just barely.

Take a carefully wielded hammer to your oil line where the rubbing is, then clean it up and put a nice coat of Rustoleom on it...I did that a few years ago and it still appears to be okay, with occasional rubbing.

Good luck, your spacers will be on the way tomorrow...if I can help it.

If anyone else needs a set, lemme know, I can provide through a local machine shop at MUCH less than the "BIG" guys...and at NO proffit for me. Boo-hoo.

BGLeduc

Just another piece of useless(!) anecdotal information regarding tire rub...

My track set up is:

Front - 16x8, 52mm offset D90 w/225/50-16 Victoracers
Rear - 16x8, 52mm offset D90 w/245/45-16 Victoracers

Ride height is at about Euro RS, Bilstein HD/H&R Progressives.

I detect no rub in the rear at all.

In front I get no rub on the right side, and on the left side only minimal rub on the inner fender when I am at full lock (turning the wheel to the left). Yesterday was the first time I tried that set-up on the track, and I suspect that the rub I got occurred when manuevering in the pits, not on course.

YMMV, IMHO, AFAIC....

BGL

Bill Gregory

Pelican shows online that they carry 52mm or 67mm, and greater. Is 56mm something they special order?

Jeff Curtis

Sorry Bill, glad you caught that.

The factory studs are 45mm, no matter how you measure them, that's how Pelican sees it.

So yes, the 52mm ones are the "ticket"...sorry for the messup...just turned 36, it's all going away...slooooooowly.

RSAErick

Thanks Jeff,
Both sides show identical wear, so I'll try 6mm with the 52mm studs first. If that's not enough, then I'll go for 9mm of spacing.

I'm pretty sure that the combination of my ride height, the low spring rate, and the r-compound tires in heavy cornering is just too much. Fortunately the rolled fenders will allow plenty of spacing.

Thanks for hooking me up with spacers.

Erick

forklift

Erick,

Was 6 mm enough? Jeff supplied me w/ 6 mm at the track this weekend (thanks Jeff!), but still had rubbing. He also had some 3mm spacers which I will try after installing some new studs this weekend. I am running the same 255 mpscs w/ PSS9s set on 1/1 and sways in the middle.

Thanks!

Jim

Tom W

Erick: Your set-up is similar to mine and I occasionally get rubbing about the same as you show. I run Cup II wheels with 205/255 MPSC or RA-1s at -3.2/-3.0 camber. I have a 5 mm spacer in the rear with longer studs. I find that not all events give the rubbing shown and wonder if Bill doesn't have the best expanation (rubber chunks that accumulate and not the sidewall). I have never seen any indication of any tire/sidewall damage when I've pulled my tires to check if the rubbing was causing a problem. I even see a little up front once in a while too.

RSAErick

I wish that I could tell you for sure. I installed the 6 mm spacers (w/the same old studs), but was seriously slowed by an oil leak in front of my right rear tire. I thought I'd fixed the leak, but my next track day showed the same leak, so I wasn't pushing it in the corners. Hopefully I've got the leak fixed, so that I can tell you with more certainty after my August 1st track day. Until then, good luck. I'll be anxious to hear how 9mm works for you.