Ok, next stereo question...removal of the head unit?
#16
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Well, I called Crutchfield and also spent about 1 hour on google... no dice - I ended up cutting the connector. I will post the pin diagram (pretty evident once you blow open the connector), but I'm not sure which colors go to which speakers :-) Once the speaker-color-to-which-wire riddle is solved, it would be easy enough to go to your local radio shack and get a female connector to solder up your own connections.
[not trying to hijack the thread]
I am active in the PCA Carolinas Region - we meet at Manchester's Bar & Grill in Raleigh.
I haven't gotten to any Hurricane meetings in Cary, but made it to a Koffee Klatch and the Oktoberfest.
The '74 Targa is on consignment at Motorcar Investments - thanks for the compliments! I would love to keep both, but, alas, reality rears it's ugly head. The '74 is fun to drive and I really like it, but I decided I wanted to drive a 911 every day so I got a C4.
[not trying to hijack the thread]
I am active in the PCA Carolinas Region - we meet at Manchester's Bar & Grill in Raleigh.
I haven't gotten to any Hurricane meetings in Cary, but made it to a Koffee Klatch and the Oktoberfest.
The '74 Targa is on consignment at Motorcar Investments - thanks for the compliments! I would love to keep both, but, alas, reality rears it's ugly head. The '74 is fun to drive and I really like it, but I decided I wanted to drive a 911 every day so I got a C4.
#17
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I made a set of removal tools from an old hacksaw blade and I keep them in my owners manual pouch along with the wheel lock key and cap removal tool. All they are is tapered pieces of metal about 3 inches long, 1/8" wide at one end and the width of the slot that they go into on the other. As you slide them into the slot the taper moves a spring loaded latch away from the lip of the radio cutout in the dash allowing the radio to be removed (the good push from under/behind the dash is a good tip as well).
Good luck!
Jim G.
Good luck!
Jim G.
#18
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BTW - I had a lot of trouble removing mine because someone bent the locking tabs - I took it to a stereo installer and he said that someone probably tried using coat hangers to remove it (he couldn't get it out).
Just be careful if you don't have the correct tool - the removal tool has small reduction in diameter (like a wasp waist) at the end of it to pull the chassis out of the frame and the tip is tapered to fit into grooves on the locking tabs... My new Blaupunkt radio came with the tools, otherwise I may have resorted to making my own also.
Just be careful if you don't have the correct tool - the removal tool has small reduction in diameter (like a wasp waist) at the end of it to pull the chassis out of the frame and the tip is tapered to fit into grooves on the locking tabs... My new Blaupunkt radio came with the tools, otherwise I may have resorted to making my own also.
#19
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Is there any issue with the security system if you remove the radio and replace it with a comparable unit? I thought someone told me that if you just yank out the radio, and not do it properly, you could disable the radio because now the security system was compromised.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
#20
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Steve -
The security system of car radios vary but, with most stereos, once the power is removed, you have to re-enter the security code to get it to work.
As for the 964, you are probably thinking of the infamous "green wire" that is part of the security system to the radio. Attached to the right side of the car stereo cage is a green wire. If you install a new stereo, you must be certain to carefully insulate this wire (wrap it in electrical tape or something). If it is permitted to accidentally touch ground, it can cause a battery drain (even with the ignition off) that will flatten your battery quickly and - if you don't know where to look for the current leak - can be a bugger to find and fix.
Marc
The security system of car radios vary but, with most stereos, once the power is removed, you have to re-enter the security code to get it to work.
As for the 964, you are probably thinking of the infamous "green wire" that is part of the security system to the radio. Attached to the right side of the car stereo cage is a green wire. If you install a new stereo, you must be certain to carefully insulate this wire (wrap it in electrical tape or something). If it is permitted to accidentally touch ground, it can cause a battery drain (even with the ignition off) that will flatten your battery quickly and - if you don't know where to look for the current leak - can be a bugger to find and fix.
Marc
#21
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Hmm... green wire - does it need to be cut from the cage with an aftermarket radio then?
BTW - Rod at www.caraudioinnovations.com provided me with a good 911 radio install tip sheet.
There are some generalizations, since there were a lot of factory head units and even different wiring harnesses used over the makes and models, but there is some good info. Just ask for the doc or you can PM/email me for a copy.
BTW - Rod at www.caraudioinnovations.com provided me with a good 911 radio install tip sheet.
There are some generalizations, since there were a lot of factory head units and even different wiring harnesses used over the makes and models, but there is some good info. Just ask for the doc or you can PM/email me for a copy.
Last edited by DustinTarditi; 11-22-2005 at 03:33 PM. Reason: additional info provided
#22
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Dustin,
The connector and wires you describe, I believe, go to the preamp under the passenger seat. With a new head unit, you may not want to use the original preamp (or you may not be able to use it). Are you then just using the cable that goes to the preamp to direct wire to the speaker wires and bypassing the preamp?
As a note, I ran new speaker wires and left the cable intact in case anyone wants to replace the factory unit later.
The connector and wires you describe, I believe, go to the preamp under the passenger seat. With a new head unit, you may not want to use the original preamp (or you may not be able to use it). Are you then just using the cable that goes to the preamp to direct wire to the speaker wires and bypassing the preamp?
As a note, I ran new speaker wires and left the cable intact in case anyone wants to replace the factory unit later.
#23
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botoo, I was trying to be slick and used the factory amp - I have it hooked to my new head unit preamp output... it's not 100% though... the factory wiring is a bit kludgey - I may wire the head unit directly to the speakers.
It's not an install overhaul - it's just spliced and taped while I sort everything out - I want to solder and wrap my connections properly to complete the project once I figure everything out.
It's not an install overhaul - it's just spliced and taped while I sort everything out - I want to solder and wrap my connections properly to complete the project once I figure everything out.
#24
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Dustin,
What wires are you still trying to figure out? I have a wiring diagram for my car (964 Turbo), but I would imagine the stereo wiring would be the same as yours.
What wires are you still trying to figure out? I have a wiring diagram for my car (964 Turbo), but I would imagine the stereo wiring would be the same as yours.
#25
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I thought I hooked up the preamp outputs to the amp inputs correctly, but it's pretty poor sounding. A buddy is coming over tonight to help diagnose things... if we come up empty handed (headed) I may need to look at your schematic sometime... keep your fingers crossed!
Thanks for the offer, too!
Thanks for the offer, too!