Learn From My Mistake
What we do all have are mistakes; the oversights, incorrect assumptions, missed steps, or “that didn’t go how I expected” moments that cost time, money, or frustration. This thread is meant to capture those.
The idea is simple: if you ran into an issue while working on your 964 and figured out how to fix it, post it here. No need for a full guide. Just a quick description of what went wrong, what caused it, how you diagnosed it, and what ultimately solved it. Even a few sentences can save the next person hours of chasing the same problem.
Over time, this could become a useful, searchable collection of real-world pitfalls and fixes; the kind of knowledge that usually only comes after doing the job "the hard way."
I’ll start with one of mine below.
While installing a new clutch and Ninemeister midweight flywheel on a C2, we purchased and used the single mass/RS guide tube ( 950 116 813 30 ) since the midweight flywheel is single mass.
This is wrong. Use the regular guide tube ( 950 116 813 06 ).
If you do make this mistake, what's going to happen is you'll reassemble everything, start the car, discover that the clutch won't operate, think about what you've done, and then realize that you've got the wrong guide tube in there. Then you'll drop the engine and try to split the engine from the transmission, and you will discover that this is impossible.
In fact, we spent ten hours trying to remove the engine from the transmission using everything we could get our hands on including wedges, shims, and huge pry bars. The thing was not coming off.
How we fixed it:
Realizing there was no solution through force, we went through the starter hole and unbolted the pressure plate from the flywheel.
Voila, the transmission came off.
We quickly realized what happened: the clutch had essentially tried to friction weld itself to the too-long guide tube, creating a flange that the pressure plate couldn't get over.
We then ground down the tip of the already-damaged guide tube and we were able to remove first the pressure plate and then the guide tube.
If we had realized this from the start, we could have unbolted the pressure plate and the only casualty would have been the guide tube and perhaps the clutch itself.
In the end, because of our prying, banging, cutting, etc. we had to replace the pressure plate, release bearing, and guide tube.
So, in short. Use the right guide tube for the flywheel. The -06 part for dual mass or ninemeister midweight, the -30 part for RS/lightweight.
If you don't, you're going to be in for a long day.
Last edited by spartansix; Mar 16, 2026 at 09:13 PM.
I had ordered a new one (correct -06 part #) but was sent the RS version (-30). I didn’t notice.
i spent countless hours trying to mate the engine to the transmission but kept coming up short several inches.
Pry bars, rubber mallets, dead blow hammers even heavy duty ratchet straps….no bueno.
Couldn’t visually see what it was hanging up on.
Finally realized it was the clutch release guide tube. The RS tube is 33.5 mm OD ; OEM is 32mm OD
That was a long day.
Lesson learned, make sure you inspect the part before install, don’t assume you were sent the correct part.
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After having gotten old brake pads out ; for the life of me couldn't get the new ones it , i cleaned the base plate as it my life depended on it and it looked and felt like polished silver ; yet no go due to swelling. With the recommendation of this amazing group of people I took the pads themselves sanded the sides of the base plate down and "Boom" no more issues , fit perfectly and moves back and forth without hesitation.
Very small but for "me" it was painful lol
With best wishes.
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Last edited by 964Luftballoon; Mar 17, 2026 at 03:22 PM.
While installing a new clutch and Ninemeister midweight flywheel on a C2, we purchased and used the single mass/RS guide tube ( 950 116 813 30 ) since the midweight flywheel is single mass.
This is wrong. Use the regular guide tube ( 950 116 813 06 ).
If you do make this mistake, what's going to happen is you'll reassemble everything, start the car, discover that the clutch won't operate, think about what you've done, and then realize that you've got the wrong guide tube in there. Then you'll drop the engine and try to split the engine from the transmission, and you will discover that this is impossible.
In fact, we spent ten hours trying to remove the engine from the transmission using everything we could get our hands on including wedges, shims, and huge pry bars. The thing was not coming off.
How we fixed it:
Realizing there was no solution through force, we went through the starter hole and unbolted the pressure plate from the flywheel.
Voila, the transmission came off.
We quickly realized what happened: the clutch had essentially tried to friction weld itself to the too-long guide tube, creating a flange that the pressure plate couldn't get over.
We then ground down the tip of the already-damaged guide tube and we were able to remove first the pressure plate and then the guide tube.
If we had realized this from the start, we could have unbolted the pressure plate and the only casualty would have been the guide tube and perhaps the clutch itself.
In the end, because of our prying, banging, cutting, etc. we had to replace the pressure plate, release bearing, and guide tube.
So, in short. Use the right guide tube for the flywheel. The -06 part for dual mass or ninemeister midweight, the -30 part for RS/lightweight.
If you don't, you're going to be in for a long day.
I could probably fill volumes with my mistakes I learned from over the years. It happens even to the pros. Just not sure I can remember them all. My latest was trying to use a factory rear window seal and because they come inches short I used black RTV to fill in the corners and push the seal outwards so it filled in the corners as it should. It worked until the added pressure created by the seal caused a very costly mistake and the window exploded under the pressure. It was fine looked great I left for an hour and came back to this.
Just exploded under the added pressure.
This is how short the new factory seals are, both upper corners.
My next experiment is going to be using the same seal but as I pull in the upper part I will have to glue the seal to the car. Let it cure and hope. I was hoping to avoid this but I need to relieve the pressure the too small seal makes. It is an expensive gamble but I am running out of options. Porsche refuses to do anything about the short seals so a solution has to be there someplace.
Great idea for a thread.
Last edited by cobalt; Mar 18, 2026 at 09:34 AM.
I find it hilarious that Porsche said my older seal stretched. If anything rubber shrinks.





