Engine lid keeps popping open - how adjust?
08-04-2004, 03:47 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Engine lid keeps popping open - how adjust?
My car has developed a very annoying problem. Sometimes when I go over rough bumps on the road, the engine lid pops open. This also happens during autocross runs. What makes the matter worse is that I recently had the lid struts replaced, and given that they are new, the lid pops open with great force, and goes up all the way.
My mechanic adjusted the lid, but the problem is not gone.
How should I go about adjusting the latch and the lid? I'm attaching two pictures, one that shows the latch and another that shows the "stops" that can be adjusted.
I guess the difficult part is to test if the adjustments work. I will need to go drive around looking for potholes (actually, they are everywhere) and hit them on purpose. Oh well.
Cheers,
ST
My mechanic adjusted the lid, but the problem is not gone.
How should I go about adjusting the latch and the lid? I'm attaching two pictures, one that shows the latch and another that shows the "stops" that can be adjusted.
I guess the difficult part is to test if the adjustments work. I will need to go drive around looking for potholes (actually, they are everywhere) and hit them on purpose. Oh well.
Cheers,
ST
08-04-2004, 03:55 PM
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
One thought...on my 944 (way back when) I had problems with my hatch coming open too easily (actually wouldn't close at one point). I ended giving the little catch arm (highlighted in the pic below) a good bath in WD-40. (I'm stating that too lightly...give it a THOROUGH cleaning with fresh WD-40) The problem I was having was the arm (tab?) wasn't engaging the male end on the lid enough...it didn't have a good enough "grip" on it. It was stuck in the "open" position too much because of all the gunk that had been jammed into over the years.
Just a thought...if nothing else, it's a place to start that won't cost you any money!
Just a thought...if nothing else, it's a place to start that won't cost you any money!
08-04-2004, 06:05 PM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have not had this problem, but I have painted several 911s, and have been through the adjustment process after getting all the parts out to keep paint off them.
Please excuse parts where I state the obvious, but here is how it works and how it is adjusted:
The rubber bumpers at the edge of the lid are the the adjustment for getting the the edges of the lid even with the rear fenders. They should not affect the problem with the lid popping open.
The center post on the latch assembly bolted to the lid is adjustable by loosening a jam nut, and turning the post (there is a slot for a screw driver, IRRC). That adjustment affects how tightly the lid is pulled closed against the rubber bumpers. You could try a 1/4 turn in any direction to get away from the place that is worn from all the open/close cycles.
The two screws securing the latch assembly to the rear deck lid can be loosened to center the post in the receiver on the crossmember. I have put a little white grease on the post, and closed the lid. The smear pattern will tell you if the post is centered properly.
The final thing to check is the pull cable from the door jam. If the cable is sticking or out of adjustment, it keeps the latch from returning all the way (just like junk in the mechanism in the suggestion above).
If all this does not fix the problem, the latch assembly bolted to the cross member is damaged or worn. Replacing it is no big deal, but I'll bet cleaning and adjusting will make the problem go away.
Please excuse parts where I state the obvious, but here is how it works and how it is adjusted:
The rubber bumpers at the edge of the lid are the the adjustment for getting the the edges of the lid even with the rear fenders. They should not affect the problem with the lid popping open.
The center post on the latch assembly bolted to the lid is adjustable by loosening a jam nut, and turning the post (there is a slot for a screw driver, IRRC). That adjustment affects how tightly the lid is pulled closed against the rubber bumpers. You could try a 1/4 turn in any direction to get away from the place that is worn from all the open/close cycles.
The two screws securing the latch assembly to the rear deck lid can be loosened to center the post in the receiver on the crossmember. I have put a little white grease on the post, and closed the lid. The smear pattern will tell you if the post is centered properly.
The final thing to check is the pull cable from the door jam. If the cable is sticking or out of adjustment, it keeps the latch from returning all the way (just like junk in the mechanism in the suggestion above).
If all this does not fix the problem, the latch assembly bolted to the cross member is damaged or worn. Replacing it is no big deal, but I'll bet cleaning and adjusting will make the problem go away.
08-05-2004, 01:26 AM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Doug, and Springer,
I will try some (read: quite a bit) WD40 on the catch arm and check the center post on the latch. I will also check the latch cable in the back (it seems to move freely, but I don't know what happens when the lid is closed)
I also realized that the release cable needs to have the correct tension. Too much or too little, and the latch will not hold. I think this is by design. If the cable breaks the latch will open.
cheers,
ST
I will try some (read: quite a bit) WD40 on the catch arm and check the center post on the latch. I will also check the latch cable in the back (it seems to move freely, but I don't know what happens when the lid is closed)
I also realized that the release cable needs to have the correct tension. Too much or too little, and the latch will not hold. I think this is by design. If the cable breaks the latch will open.
cheers,
ST