All encompassing duckbill thread

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Dec 7, 2025 | 08:42 AM
  #1  
Hello all, well I just completed my duckbill journey and wanted to share everything that I learned along the way because it's hard to find it all in one spot and the manufacturer doesn't talk about a lot of what you will need to make this work. First a disclaimer that this was my experience and yours may vary.

When you order your decklid it comes shipped in a big box with no instructions and no additional parts.

Things you will need to source yourself:

Hinge screws. M5-0.8 x 25mm (4)
I also used some M6 lock washers and 1/4" flat washers that I had for the hinges, would probably try and find some M6 flat washers as my 1/4" ones were a bit tight in the hinge.

You may need spacers, if you do, they are part number 993 512 469 00

New decklid striker, the 964 one is too tall, the 993 one worked, but I had to put two M6 washers "under" the striker to space it lower so that the latch would work. Part Number for the striker is: 996 512 213 02 (I guess it's a 996 PN)

Bolts for the decklid striker (M6-1.00 x 20mm) also used some M6 lock washers with 1/4" flat washers, you will need 2 of these.

You will need to source an older 911 decklid grille, part number 911 559 411 01. For this, you will need six "T" bolts (Part number 911 559 433 00) and six locking nuts (Part number 900 910 009 02).

This takes care of all of the required hardware. Now another thing that is not talked about is that if you leave your gas struts connected to your hinges, you will have fitment issues. I was told "just unhook them and use a stick"... Not my style. So I started looking and didn't really have to look hard. There are mechanical hood struts that you can use, they do not put any pressure on the hinge, so they don't mess with the gap at the top like a gas strut will. The "verified fitment" part number that I got, is a rennline part number E280, doesn't work with my setup. That part number has a spot for a pin at one end and a ball at the other. My factory setup has a pin at both ends of the strut. So I will be sending mine back and ordering rennline part number E187. Hopefully that one will work.

Last thing is that when you take off your factory decklid, you obviously remove your spoiler. There is a good size connector in the engine bay and a warning light that need to be addressed. For the connector in the engine bay, I measured mine (roughly 28mm) and ordered a 30mm "heat shrink end cap" that I will use to ensure no water/oil intrusion into that harness. For the light, you can simply unplug the spoiler control module, it's a small grey/black box that is located in the footwell against the firewall on a 1990-1993. If you have an 1989-1990 it is located under the passenger seat. It has a rectangular plug in the end of it that you just unplug and the "!" light as well as the spoiler light no longer comes on.

This about sums it up, hopefully that answers a lot of questions, I know that I would have appreciated all of this data prior to purchase!
Reply 2
Dec 8, 2025 | 09:25 AM
  #2  
Nice, appreciate you taking the time to post all this especially with part numbers.

Which ducktail lid did you order and do you have photos?

A
Reply 0
Dec 8, 2025 | 09:50 AM
  #3  
Quote: Nice, appreciate you taking the time to post all this especially with part numbers.

Which ducktail lid did you order and do you have photos?

A
Sure thing man. I grabbed this decklid: https://rennspd.com/product/porsche-...-rear-spoiler/

I haven't gotten it outside yet, weather around here isn't great. Will get more once the weather is better. Here are a couple of garage shots.



Reply 3
Dec 15, 2025 | 03:44 PM
  #4  
Thanks for this thread. When I acquired my 964 it came with an ill-fitted ducktail. This comes in super handy when trying to get the proper flush fitment.
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