Slightly Eccentric Crank Drive Pulley
#1
Racer
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Whilst checking the oil level yesterday I noticed that the main drive pulley on the end of the crank is running with a slight axial eccentricity.
Questions:
1. How is the pullley held onto the crank, I am assuming some sort of taper shaft/woodruff key arrangement secured by a nut.
2. Access appears difficult-is it an engine out job to get the pulley off?
3. Is the pulley a solid lump of metal (in which case I am getting worried) or is it hollow?
4. Has anyone else seen this problem?
5. What is the size of the nut on the end of the crank that secures the pulley?
The problem is not severe enough to be distressing the belts in any way, I will probably check that the nut on the end of the crank is secure and leave it at that-any advice gratefully received,
Thanks,
Kevin.
Questions:
1. How is the pullley held onto the crank, I am assuming some sort of taper shaft/woodruff key arrangement secured by a nut.
2. Access appears difficult-is it an engine out job to get the pulley off?
3. Is the pulley a solid lump of metal (in which case I am getting worried) or is it hollow?
4. Has anyone else seen this problem?
5. What is the size of the nut on the end of the crank that secures the pulley?
The problem is not severe enough to be distressing the belts in any way, I will probably check that the nut on the end of the crank is secure and leave it at that-any advice gratefully received,
Thanks,
Kevin.
#2
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hello,
the pulley is held on by a bolt and the pulley slides on to a taper shaft which is the end of the crank shaft. there is also a small dowel used for proper positioning. if i were you i would stop driving car till you find out exactly what the problem is. if you ruin the tapered crankshaft you will be in a world of trouble.crank shaft replacement, ouch!!. i know that there is a run out limit for the pulley, but its not much. your car is telling you something, better listen to her!!!!! could be that the hormonic pulley is failing. pulley is made up 3 pieces the hub which bolts to crank, inner hub, the rubber dampner and then the outer hub which your belts ride on.
the pulley is held on by a bolt and the pulley slides on to a taper shaft which is the end of the crank shaft. there is also a small dowel used for proper positioning. if i were you i would stop driving car till you find out exactly what the problem is. if you ruin the tapered crankshaft you will be in a world of trouble.crank shaft replacement, ouch!!. i know that there is a run out limit for the pulley, but its not much. your car is telling you something, better listen to her!!!!! could be that the hormonic pulley is failing. pulley is made up 3 pieces the hub which bolts to crank, inner hub, the rubber dampner and then the outer hub which your belts ride on.
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Thanks for the advice...
If the pulley is 3 piece then my guess is that the rubber damper is failing thereby allowing the outer hub to move axially when compared to the inner hub?
I guess it is an engine out job to replace?
Also what do you mean by "hormonic"
Thanks,
kevin.
If the pulley is 3 piece then my guess is that the rubber damper is failing thereby allowing the outer hub to move axially when compared to the inner hub?
I guess it is an engine out job to replace?
Also what do you mean by "hormonic"
Thanks,
kevin.
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hi,
you dont have to remove engine, its been some time since i was in there but i know you dont have to lower engine. i recall supporting engine and removing rear mount ( cross hangar). i'm sure others will help you. you need special tool to removes pulley. should you do this yourself get back with me and i will tell you how to make your own tool .
you dont have to remove engine, its been some time since i was in there but i know you dont have to lower engine. i recall supporting engine and removing rear mount ( cross hangar). i'm sure others will help you. you need special tool to removes pulley. should you do this yourself get back with me and i will tell you how to make your own tool .
#5
Burning Brakes
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To R&R pulley on 964: Remove bumper cover, bumper reinforcement, primary muffler and engine cross bracket. Removal of pulley on tapered crankshaft snout requires a special tool - not a conventional puller but a bolt-like tool that threads into the center of the pulley and "pushes" the pulley off the craftshaft. Using a conventional puller will destroy the pulley.
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Guys,
Thanks for the advice, at least the engine doesn't have to be dropped.
Sounds like a job for my specialist, I an guessing around 4 hours labour in total?
Kevin.
Thanks for the advice, at least the engine doesn't have to be dropped.
Sounds like a job for my specialist, I an guessing around 4 hours labour in total?
Kevin.
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I just spoke to the guys that PPI'd mycar before I bought it.
Apparently it is easy to put the pulley on slightly out of "true" and you are supposed to run the pulley against a dial gauge before tightening the bolt up fully.
My specialist is going to take a look in about four weeks time (he is v busy right now), in the meantime I would like to check the security of the retaining bolt, does anyone know what the crank bolt size and torque settings are?
Thanks,
kevin.
Apparently it is easy to put the pulley on slightly out of "true" and you are supposed to run the pulley against a dial gauge before tightening the bolt up fully.
My specialist is going to take a look in about four weeks time (he is v busy right now), in the meantime I would like to check the security of the retaining bolt, does anyone know what the crank bolt size and torque settings are?
Thanks,
kevin.