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Based on the instructional video from numeric, their shifter bolts only to the four holes at eh top of the mechanism inside the car on top of the transmission tunnel. It doesn’t need the shifter rod like the factory mechanism, as the numeric shifter supports itself from the four bolts on top. And if you don’t need the shifter rod for the machinist to slide across, then you don’t need the manual box, which supports the shifter rod.
I haven’t done it, but it looks pretty clear that the numeric shifter would be simplest way to make the change without any changes to the body panels.
This is why I purchased the numeric shifter. No need to weld and the elimination of the front rod.
the one thing that isn’t clear yet until I instal it is what to do, if anything, Is for the rubber boot. I don’t think it is necessary as the numeric shifter doesn’t had the tube that I think would be more sensitive to contamination/dirt. With the panel it think it would stay clean enough without the rubber boot and I will just plan on checking it periodically.
No welding simplified install and the ability to return to the tip of I want to makes it a no brainer.
This is why I purchased the numeric shifter. No need to weld and the elimination of the front rod.
the one thing that isn’t clear yet until I instal it is what to do, if anything, Is for the rubber boot. I don’t think it is necessary as the numeric shifter doesn’t had the tube that I think would be more sensitive to contamination/dirt. With the panel it think it would stay clean enough without the rubber boot and I will just plan on checking it periodically.
No welding simplified install and the ability to return to the tip of I want to makes it a no brainer.
Brad
Yeah absolutely, this seems like the way to go for sure, just making sure I'm not missing some kind of gotcha with going in this direction.. The welding part of the conversion was by far my biggest concern. Was also wondering about whether the rubber boot was still necessary. Have you started your swap yet?
I plan on doing the swap over the Christmas holiday.
a couple of things to figure out and decide are if I want to add a micro switch to the 993 pedal assemble for the starter lock out. I think it would be easy to utilize the park neutral circuit to require the clutch to be depressed to start the car.
I have the micro switch to disengage the cruise when if the clutch pedal is pushed but don’t recall details on the wiring.
Brad
Lol - In a boredom induced shopping episode, I finally ordered the manual sheetmetal while reading this thread - THEN you guys post up the Numeric Is there any downfall to retaining the tip part? Does the Numeric unit still benefit at all from the ability to seal up that space?
Good question. The only downside that I could see other than the removal of interior to weld, is that maybe it would interfere with the tip shifter if you wanted to return to tip vs the manual. It may not.
My thought is that if too much dirt and road grime get past the floor panel then I will get the sheet metal part and adapt the flange that holds the rubber boot.
Brad
Thanks for heads up! I think I'm going to take advantage of that this week.I am a little concerned about not having the grommet to seal it on the bottom but skipping welding in the shift box is enough to sway me to try it I think. Now debating whether to use stock shift rod or the numeric updated/redesigned adjustable shift rod. I guess they won't have those ready to ship for another couple weeks.
I would definitely go for the numeric shifter. I really don’t think dust will be an issue for it. The factory manual shifter’s forward and back motion runs along a silver tube that is lubricated to make the shifting smooth. The shifter box and the rubber boot stop the dust getting onto that tube. The numeric shifter works completely differently and, from what o can see doesn’t use lubrication, so don’t think you would need the dust protection from the factory boot and box.
I would say run it and see what it looks like in 6 months.
Just a bit of FYI , I believe the numeric shifter allows for the fulcrum to be above the usual surface of the shifter panel but still could require someway if sealing the tunnel from the interior ..
I have given the welding of the shift box some consideration and really it’s nothing more than a few spot welds front , rear and side to side these could possibly be riveted in place by extra large rivets which would suffice until you chose to make it permanent say a semi permanent solution .
I really do not believe anyone removing the tip would ever desire to reinstall it short of for originality and even that begs the question why , haha to each his own , Bert
Hey Bert, I agree the spot welding is pretty straight forward, but if you don’t have the gear…..you’d need a welder to come to you or ship the car to a welder.
there is an interior rubber boot as well that would stop dust getting into the cabin. It’s sandwiched between a top ring and the numeric shifter, and “seals” around the shift lever.
I would definitely go for the numeric shifter. I really don’t think dust will be an issue for it. The factory manual shifter’s forward and back motion runs along a silver tube that is lubricated to make the shifting smooth. The shifter box and the rubber boot stop the dust getting onto that tube. The numeric shifter works completely differently and, from what o can see doesn’t use lubrication, so don’t think you would need the dust protection from the factory boot and box.
I would say run it and see what it looks like in 6 months.
Thanks for the input Nick! That's exactly what I am going to do, I ordered a Numeric shifter and I think I'm going to get one of their new adjustable shift rods when they are available in a couple weeks. Getting excited, planning for right around New Years to do the swap.
Hi All - just picked up on this thread - so it looks as if the tip to manual conversion with the numeric shifter is entirely bolt on and completely reversible? Manuals go for a huge premium and it may very well be an option to convert a driver quality car. Does anyone have an estimate of the costs involved? Obviously the ability to source good used parts would be a ket factor in this. The car in question is right hand drive. Thanks 😀
BB yes I believe it is totally reversible if you use the numeric shifter, other than if you don’t buy a manual clutch/brake reservoir and cut the tip reservoir to gain clutch fluid, you will need a new reservoir if you convert back. You won’t though!
the biggest cost is the g50 box, or the six speed if you can find one. 3 years ago when I bought mine I paid US9k from LA dismantles for a relatively low mileage g50. You can still find them for around that.
The cost of all the other parts should be in my manual.
11-17-2023, 02:20 PM
Is there any downfall to retaining the tip part? Does the Numeric unit still benefit at all from the ability to seal up that space?
