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The sensor plugs are different on the G series. So that won't work.
The plug is a single receptacle on the upright that routes into another harness connection further up. Are you looking to have a single receptacle? Or, are you looking to just plug the pad sensor?
I just bought a set of cheap pad sensors, clipped the wires, and soldered the ends, heat shrink, etc, to plug into the receptacle and protect it from dirt.
If you wanted to totally eliminate, you could just get any motorsport type connector and replace both ends on the upright.
Hmm- that mat be the way to go- simply replace but my wiring skills are weak and this needs to be a tight waterproof crimp.... suggestions welcome in terms of a specific connector if I do go with the full replacement route.
Hmm- that mat be the way to go- simply replace but my wiring skills are weak and this needs to be a tight waterproof crimp.... suggestions welcome in terms of a specific connector if I do go with the full replacement route.
Thanks,
Pete
I don't know the specific part numbers, if you look at a modern car you may see the OEM. But really it just needs to be a weatherproof connector that uses crimp connections. I know by me there are electronics stores that sell this stuff, I don't know the brands off hand, maybe Molex?
You're not near Tokyo right? I'm sure you could find something in Akihabara!
I just bought a set of cheap pad sensors, clipped the wires, and soldered the ends, heat shrink, etc, to plug into the receptacle and protect it from dirt.
Did the same! Trying to remember how the pad sensors work.. is it just a relay break and dash light?
If you look at the wiring diagram I believe the sensors are wired in series all 4 corners, to the dash light. A quick meter test would verify. I don’t believe there is any other trickiness in it, ie through ECU, etc.
I just don’t think these connectors are gonna last another XX years $(1200 for a set of 4) and I’m looking to future proof. Maybe I’m thinking about it too much. A replacement wire needs to be flexible and waterproof.
I just don’t think these connectors are gonna last another XX years $(1200 for a set of 4) and I’m looking to future proof.
I agree. The plastic connector housing on mine is starting to crack and fall apart.
I am looking to 3D print a split housing that would hold a weatherpak connector or something similar to a weatherpak. The idea being you would plug the wires together, and then place the weatherpak inside the split housing, and then screw the two halves together which will tightly and securely hold the weatherpak connection. The external dimensions of the split housing would be identical to the OEM dimensions so it would still fit nicely into the OEM black plastic clamshell.
Why not crimp on solid pin Deustch DT connectors?
Not cheap, but cheaper than a lot of these options.
They're motorsports grade and no soldering required.
Probably would work great. My concerns are being able to strip the exiting round wires and re seal them well at the connector. Also the connector joint meds to handle heat and all deflection of the up and down movement of the wheel assembly.
I should try it but would prefer to do it on a spare wire. Also I’m itching to get the car back on the road with all new suspension, mono ball, and brembo’s.
There is a dizzying array of connectors- any particular that you would recommend?
Probably would work great. My concerns are being able to strip the exiting round wires and re seal them well at the connector. Also the connector joint meds to handle heat and all deflection of the up and down movement of the wheel assembly.
I should try it but would prefer to do it on a spare wire. Also I’m itching to get the car back on the road with all new suspension, mono ball, and brembo’s.
There is a dizzying array of connectors- any particular that you would recommend?
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Wheel speed sensor connection type.
