Flyin Elvis

The clutch grabs quite low on the 90 C2 and I'm told they are notorious for masters/slaves. We bled the slave without any improvement and before I buy a new master I want to bleed that. Anyone know if there is a remote bleed for the master? Any other input greatly appreciated.

Bill Gregory

When you bled the slave mounted on the transmission, the fresh brake fluid went from the brake fluid reservoir through the master cylinder to the slave cylinder and out the bleed nipple. That normally flushes the entire clutch system hydraulics.

mark964

Do you know if the clutch and pressure plate was ever replaced? There's another post around here somewhere, but basically, for 92 and later Porsche used a pressure plate with much more clamping force. This might explain your symptoms.

Apparently, the release fork is also a bit differentl.

Turns out I have the same issue. Replaced clutch, pressure plate and flywheel last year - as a DIY job. Initally, I could not disengage the clutch. A quick bleed fixed that. However, it still isn't optimal. I'm completely replacing the clutch hydraulic fluid this weekend. Pretty sure that will do. Of course, I could yank the engine and update the release fork, but ....

Lemme know how yours turns out.

Colin 90 C2

check out the other recent post on bleeding the clutch. Someone suggested adjusting the mechanical linkage screw on the clutch pedal assembly.

I just did this adjustment today and found it raised the clutch release point to about half way. I turned the screw 2 turns.

Looks like a bunch of us are bleeding the clutch and brakes.

Anyone else chasing down oil leaks?

Colin

Youcef

Colin,

Which adjusting screw do you mean? Are you adjusting the screw that butts up against the large spring? If it is I was under the assumption that this screw was merely for the pedal return function.

Youcef

Flyin Elvis

We tried bleeding the slave again last night and lost the pedal altogether, right to the flloor. Thought is a failing master, a factory tech said they are known for this. I picked up a pressure bleeder and plan to go at it tonight. Our thought is pressure bleeding will return the pedal but I'm still thinking failed part due to grabbing an inch or so off the floor. I'll try the pedal adjustment first. (Without pumping a couple of times I can feel the car moving with pedal depressed, in gear at ignition.) I'm thinking the master is sticking, which might explain the issue on another thread about no pedal after wife drove car without mentioning a problem. Oil leaks? Which one? Going after VCG's and front sump area Friday. Hoping to stem the flow for the summer and pull the motor next fall.

RSAErick

I had the same "falling" clutch pedal while using a pressure bleeder. I simply pulled up the clutch and kept bleeding. It seemed to work, although for a while I was getting air SPRAYING out of the bleed nipple.

Erick

Colin 90 C2

Youcef you are correct. The screw adjusts the pedal pressure. I read in another post that it adjusted the release point. Anyway with a little less effort on the pedal the clutch is joy to drive.

I am getting the incomplete clutch engagement only after the car has been driven for at least half an hour. I think it may be time for a new clutch assembly.

Flyin Elvis

We had success last night without replacing the master; pressure bled and adjusted the screw at the pedal and now it grabs further off the floor with no signs of conflict at start-up. Off to oil leak land now. Thanks again for the input!