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Thanks. Although maintaining a logbook is time consuming, it has come in handy so many times for my benefit and for others... well worth the effort IMHO.
Yes there is oil behind the lateral lock. I am not sure but would assume the same is true of the longitudinal lock. If you are able to elevate the front end of the car safely, you may find you can cause the oil level to drop below the level of the seal.
In regards to the seal removal tool: I just googled it but the brand Lisle is well known and any auto supply shop should have them, or be able to order one. I bet you can find them on Amazon. Part number was in my other post.
Nice inspection camera pic.
Your logbook is phantastic, and I actually started my own one after I learned this from you
Do you recall if there was trans oil coming out?
The tool above looks interesting, where did you find that?
One of the advantages of working from home is that I can quickly go to my garage and take pictures. Here's a close one of the culprit:
Maybe I can grab the folded part of the rubber with some needlenose pliers? Probably safer to drain the transmission oil before.
Agree with the suggestion of possibly cutting away, or create a hole just enough to fit a small tool through. Or, as you say, get some purchase on the seal rubber that is twisted / folded using small electrical needle nose pliers. This is where I'm so glad I went and bought a few years back a hydraulic car lift for the garage - paid for itself many times over. Wish I kept notes and pictures along the way, but when your under the car with oil covered latex gloves, it's not something you keep reminding yourself to do! Must do better next time
I’ve wanted a 964 since I was 10 years old. I stumbled over here to the 964 forum and then onto this post. This is the stuff that terrifies me about buying an old car. I have no idea what any of this is, what it does, or how to know that it’s broken. I don’t have a nephew with a CNC machine. I’ve never rebuilt anything. I don’t think I have the fortitude for an old car.
The way to look at this I guess, is that for every one rennlist problem thread with a 964 C4, there are hundreds and hundreds out there without any problems at all. Bit of DIY preventive maintenance and care and it's as robust and reliable as any of the other cars I own. Each year I just pack some gear, jump in the car and drive off to Le Mans and back.
If not I'd just leave it. That seal is essentially not allowing brake fluid into the transmission and not allowing trans fluid to drain out through the drain hole in the front of the diff lock.
A quick update regarding the seal behind my logitudinal diff lock slave cylinder:
It turned out that transmission oil was dripping out, so obviously the seal needed to be replaced. So I drained the transmission oil and tried to get that thing out. Due to the very restricted access, it really was a PITA to get it out. Could get the center part out quite easily with needle nose pliers, but that left rubber pieces stuck to the metal all around. Took me hours to pick them out with various tools, but in the end it seemed to have worked.
Only when I unsuccessfully tried to insert the new seal I realized that the metal ring of the old one was still stuck in the opening... Came out easily with a little chisel then, and installing of the new seal worked out fine afterwards :-D
Old metal ring still inside
New seal installed
Have to clean out the black gunk on the side of the opening now.
Unfortunately, I always discover something new when I'm looking at the car from underneath. Rear left side drive shaft is oily, so I'm going to replace the output flange seal and the o-ring behind the transmission cover. I hope that will be possible without taking out the whole drive shaft, would rather not like to loosen the wheel bearing nut.
I wouldn't replace that drive shaft seal. The new one won't be that much better. So if it needs to be perfect , then yes of course. But if not, at least wait until you have the axles out for another reason. Cv boots, wheel bearings, clutch, etc...not reason to do it now if fluid isn't pouring out.
....but if you want to....all good! You'll need a real seal pick to get that seal to release. And have a fully threaded m8 bolt to hold the flange when you re-torque the flange bolt.
You might want to de-burr the edges before reinstalling the seal as well.
Glad the diff lock worked out . Make sure to put a pin or paper clip through the drain hole on the diff lock before reinstalling. Brake fluid has to drain out as it seeps past the piston seals.
Just to finish this up: to take off the trans cover, I loosened all bolts holding the left part of the heat exchanger: 4 at the cat, 4 at the junction to the right heat exchanger, 6 at the cylinders. I didn't take it completely off, but this gave enough room to pull the trans cover.
Exchanged the drive shaft seal and the o-ring and put everything back together.
Next: re-fill transmission oil, change brake fluid and bleed the whole system.
Same here :-)
Fortunately it went very well, probably because I had it all off three years ago when I resealed the chain boxes etc., I used a lot of copper anti-seize then.
Hello! I had my engine and trans out for a clutch change and noticed the diff lock seal leaking trans fluid pretty bad.. I assumed I could get to it with the car back together so I finished and ordered the 964 301 051 04 'sealing sleeve' or 'sealing gaiter'
About to tackle it - Has anyone found a perfect tool to get this seal out?
