spooky69

I've gone through the old receipts and it looks like the distributor caps and rotors were replaced 5 years ago (I've no idea how many km that would have been). Is it worthwhile changing these? Cables? I've read something about having the engine running while spraying some water around...

I didn't see anything about spark plugs but I would have thought this would have been done at some point but perhaps up to 5 years ago by the look of it.

5 years ago the previous owner bought Clubsport 964 RS engine mounts - they seem to have doubled in price in those 5 years. The club and LWFW kit is 50% more 5 years later as well.

I've taken my topic off-topic...

spooky69

While ordering some Millers Oils product for the engine oil change I noticed that they do a 5.1 brake fluid. Worthwhile? Comparisons to ATE 200 dot 4? Doesn't matter?

spooky69

Are these correct:

https://www.biketeile-service.de/en/...derm6x100.html

They look a different colour but seem to be correct? They seem to be tough to find here.

Goughary

Those should work for the diff locks and the clutch slave.

The bomb is a different size as are the brake calipers.

I use these:

http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

I'm sure they ship international...since we are, effectively, a global society these days...lol.

Note on that list- the ss means stainless steel...the sb1010-ss i think are what i used on the brake calipers. All the sizes are listed somewhere in the suspension madness thread...

spooky69

Thanks. The problem with importing here is that I either pay a vast amount of money for shipping or let the local post deal with import and wait a couple of months for them to process it, assuming they actually ever deliver it.

I think they are easier to get in the UK and I can get them brought over from there. That website I linked to has various sizes but I'm not sure of the source, whereas I can get Goodrich ones from the UK. More searching required!

Thanks for all the help.

LM964

Going through your updates;

I too would like more education re the transmission vs gear oil. Good transmission oil I get - low friction, viscosity etc. Gear oil for the front diff I've been using Swepco too without any problem. However, feel I need to read up more if (or why not) you can't use the same oils for both. I have a spare front diff I picked up and pan on overhauling that with new bearings etc over winter and swap this over so keen to start with the right oil (if it is different that is).

Do you have a friend in the UK who can post items to you on the cheap? I do that for my brother-in-law in Bahrain - post bits and pieces to him.

Have the RS engine mounts and I did notice an apparent easier gear change (felt a bit notchy before). Also hear the 993 mounts are a favourite too.

Water misting in the engine bay helps tracking down worn/cracked cables through spotting 'spark leaks' or traces. I have another set of Beru cables as backup but caps and current cables seem fine.

Had the plugs replaced last year after 8 years and some hard driving. Interestingly when I was given the old plugs back my indie said they were actually pretty good (needn't have bothered changing for a while) and every one looked fine with correct burn signs. Valve clearances after 8 years were also still spot on. Happy.

5.1 brake fluid I'm not so sure about. Someone will chime in with a good reason. Thought I read somewhere to avoid it and stick with the DOT4 we use (ATE200 etc)

I do wonder sometimes that, other than regular quality oil changes, why I keep thinking I need to do loads of other things too when actually it's probably best left alone, while remaining observant and continue to perform prudent checks here and there.

spooky69

My girlfriend goes there quite often - cabin crew on a private jet - so it's easy to get things over here. I'll be able to work on the car while she's sunning herself on her boss's island in the Maldives over the New Year... it's a tough job.

I'll try the water misting thing and try to have a good look at the cables. With this, distributors and spark plugs I guess it's a case of thinking it probably should be done while I'm doing the valve clearance, which the previous owner said would probably need checking in the near future. It seems prudent to do it but it could be unnecessary, although spark plugs aren't exactly expensive. Maybe I'll try to have a quick look in the distributor and see how it looks - those were both replaced 5 years ago so perhaps they are perfectly ok. I've no idea how often they should be replaced or how many km have been driven since they were replaced, but probably not many. It's a 1990 car with 114,000km on it.

I had a look at the engine and it seems quite clean and dry in there other than a light sheen of oil on the right side under the oil filter.

I guess ATE 200 DOT 4 is the obvious choice and it seems popular.

spooky69

There are some bits that need to be torqued and I'll need a smaller torque wrench. I've seen some Hazet 10-60Nm torque wrenches and they are available in 3/8" and 1/2" - which is the better size to get for this sort of thing and general tasks? I'll possibly be doing the spark plugs and valve clearance as well.

John McM

I use three different torque wrenches. The smallest is 1/4” with the others 1/2” and 3/4”. They generally match the socket sizes for the required torque setting. However, sometimes there is a mismatch, particularly at the lower end. My solution is to use a set of up and down converters eg 1/4 to 1/2”

Goughary

You need a 3/8 torque wrench for everything that requires torques btw approximately 17ft lbs and maybe 60 ftlbs

1/2 drive above that.

1/4 drive below.

None of the torques are going to be super critical to be spot on...except the valve covers, so for the 1/4 drive- spend up on a cdi (America, whatever the euro equivalent is for the best)...
For the 3/8 or 1/2, a "good" torque wrench is sufficient.

If you want to do inside the engine work, scratch all that and buy very good for all three and make sure they are calibrated...

spooky69

Thanks for that. So the 3/8" torque wrench would seem to be the one to get for this work. I'm using Hazet with the blue handle as a compromise on cost and hopefully they are suitable. 10mm and 12mm hex sockets would seem to be the ones required - any particular ideal length?

Speed bleeders - I'll need 2 M6 but I couldn't see what others are used in your suspension madness thread (some great information in there by the way). When I fit the speed bleeders is it just a case of removing the old and putting the new ones in and I shouldn't lose much oil doing this if the system is not being pressurised?

All of this is completely new to me but I'm enjoying learning.

Goughary

You don't need a torque wrench for a fluid flush.

You need a 3/8 torque wrench for the two oil plugs. And that's it. 38 ft lbs for the oil plugs.

spooky69

Got it.

I think I got confused and it's the transmission that will require the hex socket if I have read the guides correctly.

I think I want to do the valve clearance and spark plugs while I've got the engine oil out - go big or go home, right?

I appreciate all the help - I could not even dream of attempting this without all the help on this forum.

spooky69

Looking through earlier communications it looks like the valve clearance was done around 12,000km ago (7,500 miles) and engine oil done in October, although I'll change it anyway. Would it be a good idea to get in there and do the valve clearance now?

The brake discs have been upgraded to 964 turbo at the front and 964 RS at the back, but I'm not sure about the callipers. Is it possible to know what size speed bleeders would be required for the callipers?

I've found M6x1.00 and I think I need 2 of these but I'm not sure what others I would need.

Sorry for all the questions - it's very early days for me!

Goughary

The brake bleeders are an m10 fine thread. So is that m10x1.00? Maybe. Two per caliper

The m6 bleeders are three. Two diff locks and the clutch slave.

Then, not needed but there is an sae size bleeder on the bomb, and another m10 bleeder on the pdas solenoid

For that 10mm hex on the front diff and the trans...i use a 1/2 drive Blackhawk impact socket. A thing of beauty. Always spend up for Allen sockets. No need to go snapon or Facom in most cases, but for Allen always buy high quality. (I do use a long 10mm facom 1/2 drive socket for the lower rear caliper bolts.) anyway point there is you don't need to be rounding out stuck bolts.

And ....we've been talking about this for a week! You should be done already! Get in there...

Loving the calipers btw. I'm gearing up to do a similar "upgrade" as well. But now that you have brought it up....you should - or the previous over should have done one of two things- either swapped the bias valve for the turbo valve or gutted the oem 964 bias valve. You may want to check. And if the valve has not been gutted, if you gut that, you will have more rear brake bias.

You can find the bias valve on the brake lines at the bottom front of your abs pump. I bring this up because if you are going to investigate, you want to do this before the bleed, obviously.

Also. Don't do a valve adjustment at the moment. Get through the oil and fluids first. And then later do a valve adjustment. When you need one.