JasonAndreas

I had the clicking sound for a couple days and then it just stopped (the super thin sheet metal inside the door finally ripped itself apart) Unfortunately, it now looks like this;

Randall G.

Here's the pic I posted on the old thread. The weld is in the (readily) visible part of the door jamb, A-pillar, on the car body (not on the door). You can see the door seal on the right side of the picture. The weld helps support the door stay, keeping it from flexing on the area where the stay is mounted.

warmfuzzies

Mig/Tig welding shouldn't cause spatter, if it does it's being done wrong. Besides there are a million and one sprays out there designed to stop the spatter causing any damage to surroundings.
I'd still drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading, even if you take the £54 door reapir option.

Kevin

BaysideC4

This is exactly what I need! Does anyone know were to get this part in the United States?

Thanks

springer3

I did not mean to say that a weld repair could not be properly done. However, bolting in two sheets is much easier, and does not need the corrosion-protection and cosmetic restoration that even a good weld job will need. I have a welder and I know how to use it, but I still would go the route of the bolt-in repair.

It looks like JasonAndreas had a massive rupture shortly after his cracked. There is a lesson for anyone with a damaged swing-check mount - get it fixed ASAP, and be very gentle until you do.

warmfuzzies

Springer,
Didn't mean to say you couldn't weld...but it just seems to be a cheap tacky [sic] fix to me.
Having said that, 'twould be good to see some install pics for those that need the info though, any around?

kevin

Emmett

I'm confused... My clicking is being caused by the little tap that protrudes from the "A" door pillar that holds the door check mechanism. I don't see how this fix kit mentioned in the post is supposed to fix this problem. can someone help me understand? I was quoted $150 to reweld and paint but if there is a fix for $45 I'd grab it.

please explain further....

-mike

springer3

We are all confused. I thought the damage was in the door.

If the sheet metal supporting the tab on the A pillar is cracked, the only repair possible is to weld the crack shut. $150 is not a bad price if that includes repainting the repaired area and there is minimal collateral damage from the welding.

oldtimer

I may have missed something here, but this was my experience.....after a period of the door opening being 'stiff' & 'noisy' , I suddenly got a 'reverse dent' in the door panel, turned out this was caused by the end of the door stay being pushed against the panel. On examination the problem seemed to be a collapse / tearing of metal around where the stay disappears through the door. I unscrewed the 2 M6? bolts at this point , allowing the stay to move freely....the door was still restricted by the stay at its widest opening point, the stuff still on the end of the stay and inside the door is too big to pop out through the hole in the door....end result cost nothing, door however swings freely but will not open beyond stay limit.....and I got the 'reverse dent' repaired by a 'dent devil' franchisee for £45 ( at that time $70 )

Toon

Guys,

the problem I have is the same as JasonAndreas has and waht the picture is showing.

So teh Apila os ok, the door stay is ok also but the meatl sheet has been torn.

So how could the 2 metal parts as rob has showed, fix this without welding?

Or should I just get it mig welded?
What would be the cost?

rsa964

Toon,

Performance products has the braces in the pic but they are a preventative measure not a fix according to them. If the metal is broken then it must be fixed first.

I have the same problem and can't find anyone in my area that knows what to do?

If you find something else let us all know.

D

Toon

Guys,

I had the sheetmetal that was ripped off inside the door, where the doorstay is mounted on, welded.

The guys from the garage did it last Saturday and they've done an extremely nice job. The paint on the outside of the door didn't get "touched" by it either .....

It's a nice sound when you don't hear anything while opening and closing the door, except of course the KLANG when it's shuts

Now I'm waiting for the bill ......

Toon

Got the bill - Euro 150, -

Now that was relatively painless

BaysideC4

My outside weld was broken and already repaired; now my door is clicking from the inside. It does not appear to be torn yet.

I want to buy the repair kit from Performance but it says the kit is not for my year 911.

It looks like it will work but I was wondering if anyone here had already purchased and installed this kit on a 964.


911 Door brace kit

Thanks -

MadHungarian

I purchased a jack pad from Performance Products a couple of months ago--the web site indicated that what I wanted would not work with the 964, so I called to double check and the sales person said it would. It does. I suggest you do the same (and if you do, let us know the outcome--thanks).