Rob came by this weekend and my car shamed me with an inop P/S window. Rob had an extra switch which we swapped for the p/s switch, the d/s switch which controls the p/s yet no dice. Fuse and relay both okay and D/S window a-okay. Believe we hear a click of sorts from the door area when operating the p/s switch but zero motion. Sound familiar to anyone? Curious what the cause was.

 

I’ll look through my posts as I have been there done that. The first step is to ensure that all three switches are good. Many switches are replaced with URO aftermarket. They are junk.

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-the-door.html



A note on window switches. When I reinstalled my window mechanism I noted a clicking noise. It turned out to be an after market switch not quite disengaging. I replaced it.

My friend's door problem was 'assumed' to be a faulty motor, as it would go down but not up. He had already replaced the motor twice. Quick diagnostics showed that in fact it was a faulty driver door switch that wouldn't work in one direction.

While I buy some aftermarket items based on the cost saving I've come to the conclusion that window switches are best when original.

 

Its been my experience that the passenger window has the two switches in series. If either the driver side control or the passenger switch are faulty, the passenger window won't move. I would suggest swapping both switches.

FWIW - I've had good luck with the URO switches. They are equal to the quality of the OEM. Neither is stellar but the UROs are cheap, so I keep a bunch of spares handy and replace any switch when it starts to act up.

 

Thanks guys I will check continuity on both switches. I repaired the driver side pass window switch using a drill bit shank and it was a bit skittish even after that.

My pal John in Tolland (who reads this forum but drives an SC and is restoring a 924S) did a deep dive on URO, comparing their seals, mech, electric parts to stock and even being sent some parts to test by the head of the company if I recall correctly.

 

I tested all three switches in the driver position and all three are good. Swapped them around variously and still nothing on the pass side. I connected my volt meter and watched the volts go down when operating the driver window. Then i did the same and saw even lower volts when operating either pass window switch. To me this says the motor or something associated with it is the issue. The window was never slow noisy or otherwise problematic.

 

Even though we've eliminated the switch from the problem - I'll add that the factory switch can be easily cleaned and usually work again. The cover for the switch can be popped off. Inside you'll find the plastic switch and the metal contacts. The contacts get dirty and the switch stops working or works intermittently. Clean the metal contact and reassemble the switch. If the contacts are worn you'll see that you can reverse the contacts and expose fresh contact surfaces. Takes only a few minutes. Probably need a very small screw driver to open the switch or you can use a pocket knife. Be careful not to break the cover.

 

Had this problem on the drivers side. I disassembled everything step by step, measured the electricity, and in the end took out the motor. After opening it, it worked with direct battery connection. So I reassembled everything and there was no problem anymore. Maybe the teeth in the motor gear somehow had a problem.

 

Today I removed the inop p/s window. No smoking gun!

All switches behave as they should
The motor bench tests perfectly in both directions
The motor runs in both directions when disconnected from the regulator
The regulator doesn't look worn and feels reasonably smooth

Only thing I am not sure about is the window in its tracks. The last photo shows the window mostly closed but entirely disconnected from the regulator, help by friction. Is that unusual / indicative of an issue?

 

Well, it works. The only things I did were to clean and lube all moving parts and to file down some high spots on the driven gear of the regulator.




I can not find any reference to this slotted screw which appears to offer some ability to adjust the angle of the guide on the regulator (not the window guides themselves).

Does anyone know what its intended to do?

 

Only thing I am not sure about is the window in its tracks. The last photo shows the window mostly closed but entirely disconnected from the regulator, help by friction. Is that unusual / indicative of an issue?

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Thats not normal, the window glass shouldn't stay up without the mechanism

 

I actually think the friction is from the top seal at the window sill. Curious to hear from those who have replaced these or the jamb felts.

for the time being its running smooth and fast.

 

On a related note...I have a cab..and my window is in the up position right now with the regulator / motor pulled out of the car. What adjustments do I need to make to get the window to move more freely?

When I was pulling the window in the up position it actually took quite a bit of force.. I was searing rennlist to see if that is normal and it appears it is not...