HSB

Hi,
I am in the slow process of removing my drivetrain and will need to remove the cv axle bolts at the transmission. Any advice would be appreciated. I have a high quality metric allen socket set. Ihave sprayed the bolts down with PB Blaster. I assumed that the allen bolts are metric. Thanks in advance. HSB

Eric Kessel

Just be sure to tap the socket fully into the bolt head (I had the socket on a really long extension, which I tapped with a hammer at the start of each bolt). I also had a helper to pull up on the handbrake while I removed each bolt........
-Eric

(The bolts are definitely metric, but I don't remember if my bolts had a triple square head, or plain old allen head)

Youcef

MOve the boot out of the way if you can, it tends to put a little angle on the tool head and "help" you to strip the bolt head! I have both Torx and Allen, not sure the OEM.

Rocket Rob

Be careful to look closely at the heads of the bolts. My 914 has 12 point metric bolts and at first I thought they were Allen and then tried a Torx. I nearly ruined the heads using the wrong tools. The proper tool was a 12 point (triple square) tool. I haven't removed the CV's on my C-4 but it wouldn't surprise me that Porsche is still using the same style of bolts.

sullivs

HSB,
I replaced the CV boots recently, and found that the bolts are not too hard to remove, just a little awkward getting to them. Taking all of the abovementioned suggestions will be helpful. To throw in my two cents worth: I used a 3/8 inch drive rachet wrench and the correct size allen socket. Placing the rear end of the car on jack stands, rotate the axle assembly until one of the bolts is at 6 o'clock. I seated the allen socket squarely in the bottom bolt, and used a 9 inch long piece of pipe as an extension handle on the rachet. Have someone in the car apply the brake to hold the wheels still, and the bolt will come loose. Release the brake, and rotate the axle assembly to get the next bolt to the 6 o'clock position. Apply the brake and do it again. Afterwards, assembly can go in the reverse order.

The bolts are understandably tight, but I think the hardest part is just getting the correct amount of leverage on them since everything is too crowded around them.

Good luck,
Steve

viperbob

I use a 10mm 3/8" drive hex with a 3" extension then a 3/8"to 1/2" adaptor and then use a 1/2 drive breaker to loosen the bolts. You do not want to get the extensions too long as you will have a better chance of stripping. For the 12 points, I use a Snap-on 4" M10 which is then a 1/2" drive.

HSB

Thanks everyone for the info. I have allen heads on my bolts. I will give it a try tonight. I have to get my engine out by wednesday since thats when my 63 stingray comes out of the shop. HSB

HSB

Well, I was able to get all of the bolts out . I used a craftsman allen socket set with a short 3/8 extension . I tapped the allen socket in and then used a 3/8to 1/2 inch adapter along with a breaker bar. Again thanks for the advice.

Tom W

Harpreet, take a good look at those suckers. When Bob was doing my car (in what started as a simple "replace the torn CV boot") it turned out both my rear axles/CVs were shot. I now have nice new axels, among other suspension parts.

viperbob

Tom,

Shot? I would say destroyed was a better way to describe them....