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Tool Repatriation drives have begin - first stop was today, up to John in Tolland CT. I set the GPS to "avoid highways" (why don't I do this more?) and had an excellent 1.5hr drive from Guilford up north. John and I met over Alfa GTVs (he just sold his, mine is ~90% done) he has a 911SC that he did a to the crank rebuild on, in addition to some rust/paint work and a full suspension rebuilding. His latest project is a very cool 924S - I car I will admit to being guilty of passing over but have come to appreciate from his resto.
The 964 performed wonderfully all day but still doesn't like first start, cold or hot. She cranks hard, catches quick but then stumbles. If I bring the revs up for a little or move immediately off and drive the issue goes away very quickly and she then idles like glass and pulls hard to redline. I'm not jumping to any conclusions before I'm confident all the assembly lube etc has burned off and things have 'bedded in' so to speak. But if anyone has ideas I'm all ears.
Happy to say she is running better by the drive and a total joy. I keep forgetting to connect this small vac line. I had it markes airbox but now cant recall which side of the airbox it connects to.
Happy to say she is running better by the drive and a total joy. I keep forgetting to connect this small vac line. I had it markes airbox but now cant recall which side of the airbox it connects to.
That looks like the line to the charcoal canister (I think that's what it is) on the backside of the airbox.
Close- the charcoal canister is in the driver side wheel well- and it doesn't connect to that.
Joe- what you are thinking of is the vacuum canister that is attached to the back side of the airbox.
Rus- take the airbox cover off and the filter out. And that will give yu the room to reach around the back and you can feel the canister. There is a little tube that sticks out at the top facing toward the driver side of the car. Plug that rubber elbow onto that.
The good news is your car will run even better once that is plugged in!
The company who rebuild my injectors has been very responsive. They sent me a return shipping label and received them this week, put them on their test stand. They sent me the attached video showing them working just fine as-delivered. I am really at a loss here. Could it be that the test rig has more voltage or amperage than my 12v bench test or on-car test? Seems unlikely. They're on their way back to me so I guess I'll have another go at them soon...
Close- the charcoal canister is in the driver side wheel well- and it doesn't connect to that.
Joe- what you are thinking of is the vacuum canister that is attached to the back side of the airbox.
Rus- take the airbox cover off and the filter out. And that will give yu the room to reach around the back and you can feel the canister. There is a little tube that sticks out at the top facing toward the driver side of the car. Plug that rubber elbow onto that.
The good news is your car will run even better once that is plugged in!
thanks rob will do. looks like its supposed to be routed under the AFM ?
I’m not an injector pro by any means but are they not supposed to spray and not dribble like in the video? Just asking hopefully someone else with more knowledge than I have will chime in
Originally Posted by r-mm
The company who rebuild my injectors has been very responsive. They sent me a return shipping label and received them this week, put them on their test stand. They sent me the attached video showing them working just fine as-delivered. I am really at a loss here. Could it be that the test rig has more voltage or amperage than my 12v bench test or on-car test? Seems unlikely. They're on their way back to me so I guess I'll have another go at them soon...
Stopped by Bobs - his car is a beauty and it was a great drive CT to RI. Its about 45deg out and I had the highway to myself. Curious if the oil temps im seeing look normal. With pretty spirited (wont mention numbers) highway driving I never see the first tick on the temp gauge. I will see that tick around town but definitely not on the highway. Oil is VR1 20w50.
Ha is that what the red one is? I bought the blank not knowing the difference and got it cut to match the black key. Works perfectly.
How do you all aim your headlights - H4's specifically - without a "headlight aiming device". Do you use generic headlight aiming instructions or is there a specific procedure ?
Originally Posted by Goughary
Why are you using the Valet key?
Temp is a little low. But don't worry abt that yet. Let the ambient temps come up a bit and keep an eye on it.
I used the generic aiming instructions to get the lights in the ball park, then took the car for a set of drives and tweaked them a few times until I was happy with them. You will be happy with the H4 conversion. What wattage bulbs did you choose? I'm running 90/130 in my cars with relays of course.
Thanks Rob. I did some quick version of that last night. Wife will be wondering what tape on garage door is this morning. The H4s are a very nice upgrade. I used the 60/55w Phillips Xtreme Vision. I will get to relays at one point. Can you show a photo of where yours are located?
Thanks to Rob G i installed a lamp in the green PDAS dash gauge. Fascinating. Mine illuminates on a great variety of road imperfections while traveling straight and a decent number of second/third gear corners when pushing. Does the lamp indicate PDAS is physically intervening or is there a threshold below intervention where it is merely noting speed sensor / accelerometer discrepancies?
04-12-2020, 09:19 PM
