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Thanks Rob G for loaning me the PDT999 (and other critical tools). This thing is fun to use and makes you feel like a real pro, circa 1990. Bleeding the PDAS solenoids was very straightforward using the tool, I don't have much to add to Ricardo's DIY except to clarify you use the "Bleed" menu for both slaves, neither I nor Rob knew what you use the Lateral / Longitudinal menus for.
Following on this success I could see no reason not to break open the break-in oil. Gave her 9qts before the filler neck started over running. I think the next step will be to remove the DME relay and build oil pressure, check for leaks. The 964 is more electronic than my '87 - is there anything more or less that needs to be done in order to crank and build pressure? I believe its relay R41 in the frunk, I'm not in front of my books tho.
Rus - Pulling the DME relay is a good way to disable the ignition but still be able to crank the starter. You may want to put a charger on your battery as you crank to increase the RPMs. I did the cranking a few times for 20 seconds each, spaced apart to let the starter rest (cool). Once you have oil pressure and your garage is open, you can install the DME relay and let the engine start. It will smoke a bit as the oil in the cylinders burns off.
Thanks Rob sounds like a plan. Battery has been charged up for the bleeds (pump running) but i will top it up again. I still have some connections remaining so i’ll handle those then start her up.
as a reminder I honed and changed rings but didnt do anything to cams, rockers, etc so the breaking in is really ring related. I never know exactly how crazy to get about avoiding idling. I know the mantra is load it up asap but obviously you need to check for leaks, fire, etc. i suppose id like to start it up while still on stands, idle or fast idle for ~5 min then drop it down and go!
I ran the engine for 20 minutes up on the jack stands at high RPMs to break in the cams. I then did an oil change. Then dropped it down and took it for a drive. Changed the oil again at 100 miles, 500 and 1000. I adjusted the valves and checked the head studs at 500 and 1000 too. Was it overkill? Probably but it felt right.
Rob can you elaborate on 'high RPMs'? My instinct was to run the car at a fast idle, say 2500rpm for long enough to let the oil circulate, thermostat open, engine to warm up and any leaks to present themselves. Even then I'm a tad nervous about running the motor at effectively no load and constant throttle with virgin rings, but I can't really see being comfortable enough to just plain hit the road. This is obviously where a dyno is nice. Presuming all good with my initial run on jack stands, take her out for a propper medium to heavy loading at a variety of RPM and throttle conditions stopping well short of redline. Give that a hundred miles then drain the break in oil. No decisions taken yet on following oil change frequency.
We got oil pressure! I have to say this feels good. You never know if the starter will engage at all or nicely with a new ring gear / flywheel and hearing things spin up very nicely is a great feeling, one equaled by seeing oil pressure build pretty quickly. I'll have to keep an eye on the motor to see if any leaks, obviously running will be a bigger test of that.
I believe the fuel pump is wired such that it will not build pressure without turning over with the DME relay plugged in? I'd like to pressurize the system to look for leaks before actually running the car. I suppose I could plug in the DME relay, unplug each injector and turn over?
I now have the driver side intake runners in place. Really all I'm waiting on is the adapter to make the new style cylinder head temp sensor work with the harness. I could half *** this with some 1/8in quick disconnects and the old CHT plug but I don't know if I could do damage by crossing the wires so I'll wait and button up other things.
If you want to check for fuel leaks, plug in the DME relay and then turn on the ignition to the run position (do not go to start), this will run the fuel pump for 2 seconds. Repeat several times and you will have fuel pressure throughout the system. Then check for leaks.
Funny the small things that make you feel good and grateful these days. I was happy to receive this belt tension gauge 9 days sooner than Amazon estimated and to have a FCP package incoming tomorrow. These keep me on track but much more importantly make me feel like something out there is still ticking.
Does anyone know if Porsche’s ‘scale increments’ correspond to KG on the Krikit?
Rus, what a great job you’re doing, plus awesome level of guidance and tool loans from local gurus. And new friends made along the way ... sums up all that’s good about this passion each of
us here shares.
Just as you have expanded knowledge and contacts by doing this over “just another 3.2”, so too have I via the 924S project and associated community, having been sent the odd unused part someone had lying around or PDF sets of key documentation.
Funny the small things that make you feel good and grateful these days. I was happy to receive this belt tension gauge 9 days sooner than Amazon estimated and to have a FCP package incoming tomorrow. These keep me on track but much more importantly make me feel like something out there is still ticking.
Does anyone know if Porsche’s ‘scale increments’ correspond to KG on the Krikit?
Cool. As you know there is a pounds and KG scale, my obvious guess was KG = "scale increments".
I haven't run the car yet so I won't take the numbers too seriously until there is some work put into the belts.
Cool. As you know there is a pounds and KG scale, my obvious guess was KG = "scale increments".
I haven't run the car yet so I won't take the numbers too seriously until there is some work put into the belts.
Yip, KG scale, German car. Few countries use imperial system. What the hell is a ‘jug’ LOL
03-30-2020, 08:55 PM
