jonathant

The v1s do not have a damping adjustment.

Mine don't pogo and Remi is under RS spec for height, so likely it's bump steer (unless something wrong with the dampers).

jonathant

I have in my notes that the KW V1 and V3 spring rates are 170 ft-lb front and 455 ft-lb rear vs Carrera RS spring rates of 247/440.

The KW also have tender springs 57/114 ft-lbs but don't think they come into play much.

Think I got those from a posting here on Rennlist but I don't see a source so take that with a grain of salt.

Spyerx

Ah ok. I forgot thought they all had an adjustment. Tender won’t matter as they fully collapse.

if you want my opinion the splits are too high.

i found kw spring rates more for the autobahn than American roads.

talk to your shop but my first inclination would be a softer rear spring. Or a stiffer front.

my car is 350/550 iiirc

_Remi

Thanks everyone, excellent advice / info as usual.

Here's my plan of action:

• I am giving it another proper drive next Thursday morning (will do an early run to Point Reyes from San Francisco, pavement is better)
• I will most likely combine these three changes afterward: raise it a bit (10 / 15mm), reduce camber a bit, install Elephant Racing tie rods

Will report back of course.

jonathant

Looking forward to a report on the Elephant Tie Rods. They've been on my list for a while but haven't gotten around to it yet.

911Jetta

You will love them! Steering feels much more direct, and noticeable decrease in bump steer in tight corners. The front end feels planted and playful.
Elephant tie rods + Rennline HD ball joints, Rennline 3-point strut bar, and steering rack brace and bushings. 235 front tires.

Goughary

I don't use a lot of negative camber when i set these up for street driving. I look to balance the handling out a bit. On the street, where hopefully you are never driving at the limit, balance is more important, as is predictablility. Speed is irrelevant. On the street it's about feel.

In my opinion, i don't know your ride height specs, but raise the car to RS plus 10mm if it's lower than that, and i wouldn't go so far negative in camber. A little toe in front and rear, max the camber, and if you have adjustable front and rear swaybars, adjust the rear to max stiff and the front to max soft. (For a start). Then tweak as needed until you get it dialed in.

Anyway- remember - race cars feel like **** and don't drive well. They just go fast around a specific set of corners under specific conditions, with specific components, set in a specific way for that day. Street cars are different. We aren't racing, and we want to feel like we are.
Feelings aren't facts.

Set it up so it feels good and is controllable.

964tit

Dunno if it helps, but I'm on V1s.

My settings are:
Front
Rennline camber plates up front (monoball)
New-ish control arms
Refurbished steering rack

Rear
V1's have monoball topmounts
ERP adjustable spring plates

Cup 1 Reps (17in), Michelin PS2
Carrera RS spec heights + 10mm
Front V=135mm
Rear H=228mm

F -2deg camber, slight toe out, max castor
R -1.5 deg camber, neutral toe

The car can be a bit 'busy' on bumpy roads, so planning to address that at some point (bump-steer probably). Generally damping/compliance are pretty good, though the roads in my town are good. Also thinking of slightly more camber and toe-in at the rear when my larger wheels go on. I'm not interested in firmer sway bars because I'm paranoid of getting bitten by lift-off over-steer. Will take the (minimal) body-roll instead...

_Remi

Thanks @964tit ! I will probably get close to that setup but will add a elephant racing bump steer kit on top of it.

BillyB

One thing to bear in mind for later, I have KWv1s and the ride height dropped nearly 4cms after they were initially set up (at some point over about 4k miles, which was the next time I got the ride height checked)

rsclone

Ive had a few years of messing around with various suspension and alignment set ups and have always found that my car feels a lot better on the road or track with more camber on the rear than the front and I can get away with just under 2° front and 2.5° rear and wear even on the rear and finish fronts off with 1mm difference from inside to outside with a mix of track days and fast road, no commuting, toe out is a no go for my skill, far too darty and feels like I've wound all the caster off, I'd imagine it's good for auto cross though! Caster wants to be maxed out for whatever your doing with the car. A tiny bit of toe on on the rear helps a lot for me, keeps the rear end in check, especially under hard braking. I'm hoping a new diff will help further! As for ride height, at 10mm under rs height with rs progressive springs I had horrendous bump steer on the road, fine on a smooth track though. I then went to linear springs and this helped loads with the bump steer as it limited the suspension travel but it became harsh on the street. I then went to motons and 620 855 springs, rd uprights and tie bars etc and set it up 25mm below rs and the car handled like it was on rails on the track, was better on the road but not when going less than 35mph. As the family keeps growing I see less and less track time so I've revalved the rear shocks, fitted longer 500 and 680 springs and gone back up to rs height and the car now feels like I'd imagine a modern gt3 to feel. Firm but supple on the road and I'm hoping I'm still able to get it stiff enough for the track.

dukmon

A+

_Remi

Dropped the car this morning for additional tuning.

• 10mm raise
• Elephant racing anti bump steer kit
• Steering rack rebuild (unrelated but had to be done)
• A bit less agressive on toe and camber

Will report back in a few weeks.

Parman

Remi, who is doing the work?

_Remi

TC Design in Campbell, they came highly recommended and I am quite happy so far.