Removing floor sound padding. 1991 c2.
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Removing floor sound padding. 1991 c2.
Hello. My car. Has been non race car properly light-weighted. Door cars. Rear seats. Belt hardware. Cup pipe. Rear window wiper , fog lights and Minimal fill of washer fluid tank. And . No frunk carpeting. I’ve removed floor mats. Radio, Ash tray n passenger sun visor. I was thinking of carefully cutting the thick black rubber padding on floor. Front and rear. While leaving the carpeting in place. So not to destroy the originality and mostly otherwise stock look. Appreciate any comments on proper removal of padding. Will it tear. Upon pulling up. From glue. Etc. I’d like to save the padding in square /rectangular like pieces. I remove for easy replacement as needed.
Todd
Durham. NC
Todd
Durham. NC
#2
Rennlist Member
Sound mats
Depending on the condition of the sound mats. But it is unlikely you will get them out without tearing them. They are glued in, and after ~30 years...
i like my car “looking” original. That said, I think a little modernisation unseen is fine. Remove the sound mats and cleanup the glue. Fit some Dynmat. And manufacture some RS Boards or buy the Rennline track mats. carpet will fit nicely over the top with a nice flat surface under foot.
i like my car “looking” original. That said, I think a little modernisation unseen is fine. Remove the sound mats and cleanup the glue. Fit some Dynmat. And manufacture some RS Boards or buy the Rennline track mats. carpet will fit nicely over the top with a nice flat surface under foot.
#3
Rennlist Member
The padding will not come out in one piece. The glue is tough to remove if you do. I found the best approach is not the healthiest but it is a trade. Less time using a more serious chemical or lots more time using a somewhat less unhealthy chemical.
Xylene straight out of the can onto a cloth and allowed to sit on the glued surface for a few minutes breaks down the adhesive and allows you to roll the glue up into little *****. I did an entire interior in under 2 hours. vs alternative products which can take days. Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area and use proper safety precautions.
Xylene straight out of the can onto a cloth and allowed to sit on the glued surface for a few minutes breaks down the adhesive and allows you to roll the glue up into little *****. I did an entire interior in under 2 hours. vs alternative products which can take days. Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area and use proper safety precautions.
#4
Plastic razors work great for getting the remaining glue residue out.
I've also seen people use dry ice to remove the padding. They just freeze it and it breaks out in pieces along with the glue. I've never tried that method, but it looks like the easiest route.
I've also seen people use dry ice to remove the padding. They just freeze it and it breaks out in pieces along with the glue. I've never tried that method, but it looks like the easiest route.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Todd
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
I got very lucky. Was able to get my fingers. Completely under the 2 inch think padding. And gently. Work it off the floor. For the passenger side front I got it out in one piece. As well as the rear floors. Driver side. Had. Several smaller pieces. Pieces together. But nothing tore. Apart. With the rubber. Matting. I’d say at least 5lbs. Total. Front and rears.
I did not. Do anything with the carpeting. Which still remains. Along the. Rockers and. Center tunnel area.
Thanks again. For the responses
todd
I did not. Do anything with the carpeting. Which still remains. Along the. Rockers and. Center tunnel area.
Thanks again. For the responses
todd