Rear end / tranny / Diff noise when steering wheel is hard over and car is in motion
02-14-2004, 03:54 PM
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Rear end / tranny / Diff noise when steering wheel is hard over and car is in motion
92 964 (C2 cab) with tiptronic transmission, about 80k miles in very fine overall condition:
One of the rear wheels (I think the inside wheel) is locking, hopping, skipping, with some rear end gear noise when car is in motion with steering wheel hard over to left or right, for example when navigating a tight parking spot.
When attempted in a larger lot, with throttle on, one of the rear wheels is "locking", with the net effect being "burnout donuts"...
When symptoms are present, car is turning in more tightly than ever before with steering wheel hard over to the right or left.
The above symptoms are NOT present unless the steering wheel is hard over to the right or left AND the car is moving .
It is not the power steering pump as the car makes no unusual noise when simply turning the steering wheel hard over to the right or left while the car is stationary.
Am looking for feedback before I take the car to a dealership or shop...
(OK, now the story leading up to this symptom - A buddy played with the throttle cable adjustment - he tightened up the cable in an attempt to raise my slightly too low idle {I know, I know, wrong, wrong, wrong...} - as I drove home, the engine would stall every time I stopped as the engine returned to idle, so I was manually keeping up the idle with the throttle while in neutral at each stop, then dropping it into D or 1 each time I had to start moving again, had to do this in stop and go traffic for 30 minutes.... am afraid I screwed something up by having to drive the car home under above circumstances... I reset throttle cable which eliminated the stall problem, car idles normally now.. one more thing, I replaced the battery the day before this whole thing started, but I don't that this had any effect on my rear end issue...
One of the rear wheels (I think the inside wheel) is locking, hopping, skipping, with some rear end gear noise when car is in motion with steering wheel hard over to left or right, for example when navigating a tight parking spot.
When attempted in a larger lot, with throttle on, one of the rear wheels is "locking", with the net effect being "burnout donuts"...
When symptoms are present, car is turning in more tightly than ever before with steering wheel hard over to the right or left.
The above symptoms are NOT present unless the steering wheel is hard over to the right or left AND the car is moving .
It is not the power steering pump as the car makes no unusual noise when simply turning the steering wheel hard over to the right or left while the car is stationary.
Am looking for feedback before I take the car to a dealership or shop...
(OK, now the story leading up to this symptom - A buddy played with the throttle cable adjustment - he tightened up the cable in an attempt to raise my slightly too low idle {I know, I know, wrong, wrong, wrong...} - as I drove home, the engine would stall every time I stopped as the engine returned to idle, so I was manually keeping up the idle with the throttle while in neutral at each stop, then dropping it into D or 1 each time I had to start moving again, had to do this in stop and go traffic for 30 minutes.... am afraid I screwed something up by having to drive the car home under above circumstances... I reset throttle cable which eliminated the stall problem, car idles normally now.. one more thing, I replaced the battery the day before this whole thing started, but I don't that this had any effect on my rear end issue...
Last edited by Gregory Gastman; 02-14-2004 at 04:37 PM.
02-14-2004, 05:11 PM
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Dear Gregory,
I am afraid you have a differential problem or a half shaft seizing. This is purely mechanical.
Power steering is on the front not the rear.
The only way to find out is to get it up on a lifter and take a look. There is no limited slip function in the tiptronic diff. It is not a standard diff for sure in its look and layout but in operation it is the same.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
I am afraid you have a differential problem or a half shaft seizing. This is purely mechanical.
Power steering is on the front not the rear.
The only way to find out is to get it up on a lifter and take a look. There is no limited slip function in the tiptronic diff. It is not a standard diff for sure in its look and layout but in operation it is the same.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
02-16-2004, 01:35 PM
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My thanks to Adrian and the List; I'll post a further reply here after the car is diagnosed on a lift (and repaired??).
The car is 12.5 years old, and in addition to my drivetrain issue, she needs brakes now and could use a tuneup this year or next.
Also, she will need to be mildly "restored" in the next 2-3 years to include a new headliner and cabrio top and could also use new shocks x 4 (may replace the US springs at that time with the ROW factory springs to obtain the lower factory spec ride height).
Am concerned I might be hitting the cost - benefit ratio wall. Car is likely worth 20-25k US to a stranger (worth somewhat more to me!), but these repairs and modest resoration goals may start adding up... starting to sound like 12-15k over the next 3 years, and that's not even opening the motor.
The car is 12.5 years old, and in addition to my drivetrain issue, she needs brakes now and could use a tuneup this year or next.
Also, she will need to be mildly "restored" in the next 2-3 years to include a new headliner and cabrio top and could also use new shocks x 4 (may replace the US springs at that time with the ROW factory springs to obtain the lower factory spec ride height).
Am concerned I might be hitting the cost - benefit ratio wall. Car is likely worth 20-25k US to a stranger (worth somewhat more to me!), but these repairs and modest resoration goals may start adding up... starting to sound like 12-15k over the next 3 years, and that's not even opening the motor.
02-16-2004, 02:51 PM
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Dear Greg,
I think that closer to 10k would be more realistic and if you shop around even less than that. The cab roof will be the most expensive. I actually hope in the 993 book to include an entire procedure on how to do this yourself. I am working on it in conjunction with PAG revitlaising an old procedure they one wrote. Updating it, verfying it to work from 1983 to 1998 and maybe even beyond. I have not looked at the 996 system yet.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
I think that closer to 10k would be more realistic and if you shop around even less than that. The cab roof will be the most expensive. I actually hope in the 993 book to include an entire procedure on how to do this yourself. I am working on it in conjunction with PAG revitlaising an old procedure they one wrote. Updating it, verfying it to work from 1983 to 1998 and maybe even beyond. I have not looked at the 996 system yet.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
