Preparing for a (First) Valve Adjust
09-25-2018, 11:47 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Preparing for a (First) Valve Adjust
As I have the valve cover gasket kit incoming from FCP Euro, figured I should get a little more information together to get ready for my first time adjusting valves. 
I've been going through numerous threads on the topic and have a decent understanding of the process, various methods, and points to look for. I'll be utilizing the Kirk Engines tool borrowed from a local PCA member, followed with feeler gauges to ensure consistency.
Now I may have missed it (or haven't found it yet), but with the oil drain to get prepared, is draining the crankcase sufficient or does the tank need to be emptied as well? I would figure the latter.
Thanks!
I've been going through numerous threads on the topic and have a decent understanding of the process, various methods, and points to look for. I'll be utilizing the Kirk Engines tool borrowed from a local PCA member, followed with feeler gauges to ensure consistency.
Now I may have missed it (or haven't found it yet), but with the oil drain to get prepared, is draining the crankcase sufficient or does the tank need to be emptied as well? I would figure the latter.
Thanks!
09-25-2018, 12:08 PM
#2
Race Car
Unless you have a way to measure the amount you take out...best to take the safe route and drain as you would a normal oil change.
Fwiw. I always put blue tape over the ignition key slot if i drain the oil and then do work on the car. Reminds me to not make a silly mistake after the car has been sitting. Tape doesn't come off until oil goes in.
Also a good idea to pull the dme relay. Same reason.
Fwiw. I always put blue tape over the ignition key slot if i drain the oil and then do work on the car. Reminds me to not make a silly mistake after the car has been sitting. Tape doesn't come off until oil goes in.
Also a good idea to pull the dme relay. Same reason.
09-25-2018, 12:14 PM
#3
IHI KING!
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I normally do my valve adjustments in conjunction with oil changes. If you are not changing, you can jack up one side of the car which would cause the oil to shift to the low side, do you adjustments for the high side, reinstall the covers and then do the opposite side.
09-25-2018, 12:22 PM
#4
Technical Guru
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You want the engine to be at ambient temperature when measuring clearance, preferably closest to 68F. So the day before you plan to do the valve adjustment just let the crankcase and oil tank drain overnight. If you were to leave the tank filled it would drain into the crankcase and onto your floor. The kirk tool makes the process almost foolproof but it will still take a while for you to build up confidence in what you're doing so why rush? Plus its easier to switch back and forth between banks as you rotate the engine over.
09-25-2018, 12:56 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I normally do my valve adjustments in conjunction with oil changes. If you are not changing, you can jack up one side of the car which would cause the oil to shift to the low side, do you adjustments for the high side, reinstall the covers and then do the opposite side.
You want the engine to be at ambient temperature when measuring clearance, preferably closest to 68F. So the day before you plan to do the valve adjustment just let the crankcase and oil tank drain overnight. If you were to leave the tank filled it would drain into the crankcase and onto your floor. The kirk tool makes the process almost foolproof but it will still take a while for you to build up confidence in what you're doing so why rush? Plus its easier to switch back and forth between banks as you rotate the engine over.
Lately ambient has been in the upper 80s to low 90s. For this job I'm certainly not going to rush. It's also a good time for me to change the plugs since I'm in there. As long as I have it ready by the last week of October for Oktoberfast (autocross) I'll be good, otherwise I'll take my 986 instead.
09-25-2018, 01:06 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Start on a weekend morning and it’s a relaxing job. No need to disconnect the battery, you’ll have to re-adapt the idle if you do.
My tip, take or leave- I don’t like the nyloc valve cover nuts that typically come in those kits. I use standard, zinc coated, M6 nuts. And use a 1/4” torque wrench. The torque value is, and should be, very low. Oil draining is pretty well covered above.
My tip, take or leave- I don’t like the nyloc valve cover nuts that typically come in those kits. I use standard, zinc coated, M6 nuts. And use a 1/4” torque wrench. The torque value is, and should be, very low. Oil draining is pretty well covered above.
09-25-2018, 03:11 PM
#7
Race Car
Nik - i am assuming i know the answer since it seems self evident...
But you haven't had any issue with the torque on the standard m6 nuts changing - it's only 7 ft lbs right?
But you haven't had any issue with the torque on the standard m6 nuts changing - it's only 7 ft lbs right?
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09-25-2018, 03:54 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Goughary- I haven’t had any leaks or stripped nuts and I’m on original ‘91 valve covers. Did a 3.2L recently and it’s leak free too. The 1/4” torque wrench has been the key for me. A 3/8” wrench isn’t accurate enough at 7ftlbs, it might be torquing at double or more.
Jason, I’ve seen a lot of gasket kits come with nyloc nuts. Pelican and others. Not sure why.
Jason, I’ve seen a lot of gasket kits come with nyloc nuts. Pelican and others. Not sure why.
09-25-2018, 04:08 PM
#10
Technical Guru
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Nylocs were used prior to the 3.6 engine but when they changed the gaskets and valve covers for the (NA) 964 they switched to the all metal style locking nuts. Wish I knew the reason too! But I don't put any stock in things sold by Pelican or most other retailers. It took over a year to get them to acknowledge they had been (for years) selling people the wrong replacement belt for the dual distributor. I could go on and on...
Last edited by JasonAndreas; 09-25-2018 at 04:30 PM.
09-25-2018, 09:33 PM
#11
I also have the Kirk tool, but to be honest I had more trouble with that than just using proper feeler guages. When I used it, it felt like that tool would be better on a engine stand, but it could have been how I used it. Don't be afraid to just go back to the regular procedure if something seems amiss.
09-26-2018, 11:22 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I also have the Kirk tool, but to be honest I had more trouble with that than just using proper feeler guages. When I used it, it felt like that tool would be better on a engine stand, but it could have been how I used it. Don't be afraid to just go back to the regular procedure if something seems amiss.
10-03-2018, 03:37 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ended up buying a Kirk tool and the specific feeler gauges (the other guy didn't respond - maybe I emailed the wrong address?) and those showed up today. I'll apply some Aerokroil to the exhaust and engine tin hardware to let it soak in for a day or two before getting started.