Breaker Bar or Impact Wrench
#1
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Thread Starter
Breaker Bar or Impact Wrench
Old topic, I know but curious. What are you all using for the odd stubborn bolt or nut? Apart from penetrating oil and heat (not always an option), are you using an impact wrench (which one) or a breaker bar?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Rennlist Member
A breaker bar with a 4ft jack handle or pipe slipped over the handle. Works every time. Impact wrench can be nice but it’s tedious to get out and loud. Have to get the hose out, have to plug it in, have to listen to the compressor running till it’s full, then put it all away after tripping over the cord and hoses. The breaker bar gets into tigher spaces in many instances. When I was younger I liked air tools because they were cool, techs, and pro mechanics used them. Now that Im older and more meticulous, I prefer the feel of hand tools on my own projects.
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Paolo1 (05-23-2021)
#3
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A good impact is usually preferred over a breaker bar. Impacts generate high dynamic torque pulses, while the mean torque is relatively low. So, the dynamic torque can loosen a nut or bolt without risk of breaking the bolt. Breaker bars generate mean torque, and that torque pretty much only limited by the length of the bar. Odds of twisting off a bolt become higher. I have twisted off countless old rusted nuts and bolts (thank you Brit Cars!). Drilling and tapping required as a result.
I have an Ingersoll Rand 1/2 inch impact. It puts out a lot of torque. Had it for many years and it's great. Keep em oiled.
I also have one of those new 18 volt heavy duty impacts (DeWalt). It's handy (but heavy), and works pretty good, if you don't have a compressor. I have 12V impacts (MIlwaukee and DeWalt) used for lighter stuff, and assembly. Very handy. I even have a Mil 12V ratchet.
Not so much breaker bars anymore.
Use impact rated sockets also !
I have an Ingersoll Rand 1/2 inch impact. It puts out a lot of torque. Had it for many years and it's great. Keep em oiled.
I also have one of those new 18 volt heavy duty impacts (DeWalt). It's handy (but heavy), and works pretty good, if you don't have a compressor. I have 12V impacts (MIlwaukee and DeWalt) used for lighter stuff, and assembly. Very handy. I even have a Mil 12V ratchet.
Not so much breaker bars anymore.
Use impact rated sockets also !
#4
Rennlist Member
Where is said bolt?
im super lucky in that no bolt has given me a headache on either of my antiques.
I have an electric impact pact but only does up to 400 ft lbs
im super lucky in that no bolt has given me a headache on either of my antiques.
I have an electric impact pact but only does up to 400 ft lbs
#5
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I use both, depending on the situation and access. If you are fighting with a stubborn bolt, heat is your friend. I have found that if you heat a bolt/nut with a MAPP torch, then its a lot easier to remove.
#6
Race Car
Head over to the suspension madness thread and look up the ingersol rand impact wrench part...i can't remember the exact model i bought, but that's the one you want. They can be had cheep on eBay. (I ended up buying a few and passed them around. Rebuild kits are readily available - and they will break anything - loose, or just break them, lol...
There are two or three versions- and the one you want vents downward through the handle. That's why i suggest looking it up- cuz i gave the rundown in there somewhere...
As to breaker bars- i have the following
6 inch 1/4 drive
15 inch 3/8 drive
10 inch 1/2 drive
18 inch 1/2 drive
24 inch 1/2 drive
24 inch 3/4 drive
And a 3:1 torque multiplier - for the serious stuff.
I use the torque multiplier for the hub nuts, and that's about it.
As to stubborn bolts. Mostly i use the 18 inch 1/2 drive, and for the really stubborn ones, the 24 inch 1/2 drive. But the 18 tends to fit in more places under the car.
Fwiw - all of these are high quality - i wouldn't bother with low quality breaker bars. They suck, and you don't want things breaking when you are using high torque trying to get something to loosen up.
So - if you can only have one, go w the 18"
And then grab the others as need be.
Never - ever - break bolts with your ratchets. (I mean the stubborn ones)
And never never never with a torque wrench.
There are two or three versions- and the one you want vents downward through the handle. That's why i suggest looking it up- cuz i gave the rundown in there somewhere...
As to breaker bars- i have the following
6 inch 1/4 drive
15 inch 3/8 drive
10 inch 1/2 drive
18 inch 1/2 drive
24 inch 1/2 drive
24 inch 3/4 drive
And a 3:1 torque multiplier - for the serious stuff.
I use the torque multiplier for the hub nuts, and that's about it.
As to stubborn bolts. Mostly i use the 18 inch 1/2 drive, and for the really stubborn ones, the 24 inch 1/2 drive. But the 18 tends to fit in more places under the car.
Fwiw - all of these are high quality - i wouldn't bother with low quality breaker bars. They suck, and you don't want things breaking when you are using high torque trying to get something to loosen up.
So - if you can only have one, go w the 18"
And then grab the others as need be.
Never - ever - break bolts with your ratchets. (I mean the stubborn ones)
And never never never with a torque wrench.
#7
Technical Guru
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#9
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But axle bolts suck. I use my 24” 3/4 with a jack handle to break those.
#10
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Thread Starter
Axle bolts, suspension bolts (shocks), the mythical bolt for the harmonic balancer (does not like heat) are all tough to break lose.
Last edited by cjoenck; 07-17-2018 at 09:07 PM.
#11
Race Car
Ingersol Rand
IR 231ha
The 231g is the cheap one - and the 231c vents out the front, so you get a face full of brake dust when you use it on wheels.
Just looked that up on suspension madness. It's post 154 i think....
IR 231ha
The 231g is the cheap one - and the 231c vents out the front, so you get a face full of brake dust when you use it on wheels.
Just looked that up on suspension madness. It's post 154 i think....