Super90

Adding this as some folks had asked for it....

I learned some tricks on mating the trans to the engine when doing my engine work last year. Note: I had my engine on a hydraulic table and trans on a floor jack when I did this. It allowed me to control the working height of each side of the equation.

1) If possible use a real input shaft to center the clutch disc while bolting up the pressure plate. Reason being, the plastic alignment tool can allow the disc to settle ever so slightly, in a vertical plane. My local shop has a spare input shaft floating around for just this purpose. I borrowed it. This is a nice to have, but not a show-stopper...
2) Take the edge off of the very tip of the input shaft. It's tapered, but there is still an edge there. I used a Dremel tool with a small grinding stone to round that edge off. Here's a pic of where we are talking about (not my trans):



3) I cleaned up the splines on the input shaft really well (every spline was spotless) and put a little grease on it.
4) Use each of the proper lubricants in the designated spots, as indicated here: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ml#post4912793
Test fit the clutch fork shaft. Mock up the whole thing together, with the bearing cap on the far end of the shaft, the two seals and then the other bearing on the other end, then put a long M6 bolt in the end of it, and slide it all in there together. Do not put the bearing cap in the boss on the far end by itself and then insert the shaft. The concern is, that if everything is not aligned perfectly, you can hang a needle in that cap bearing and bend the needle in there. Instead, keep the whole assembly together...

Before testing, I cleaned the bosses in the bell housing really well and dressed them with 600 grit paper. Then a very thin coat of the different greases.

Test fitting (I had not cleaned the splines yet):



Pull all that slowly apart. It should be super smooth and the bearings should come out with the shaft.


5) When mating the trans, all the angles are super critical, up and down, and left and right. Should be very even spacing all around the bell housing. A little off, and it won't go. I got mine all lined up, adjust a bit, a jiggle, and it all slid together. Bob's your uncle !!
6) I taped the clutch fork as described in the FSM, but once you have it almost all the way mated, it can get in the way of the trans going on, so watch for that and adjust.
7) I then slid the whole pre-assembled clutch fork shaft (end bearing, seal, seal, end bearing, long M6 bolt) all the way through and seated. It was like magic. Then, plastic end cap and the hold-down.

When it is wrong, it is really wrong. I've seen that first hand on another car being assembled.

But using all these tricks, mine slid together in just a few minutes.

Spokes

Great reference. Bookmarked. Thanks.