originally by DZug I believe, they were available through Pelican, though not sure if they still do them. They are available via Rebel Racing currently I think

 

The shifter and beep-beep button were made by Manuel Campuzano.

Thanks!
Andrew

 

Function First.

 

A couple of RS and factory CF aluminum

 

How do I contact Manuel Campuzano??

 

 

i have a similar in my 997...gemballa? maybe, cold at first, but once you fondle it for a while, warms right up...
i love it...and it won't wear like leather...

 

I went in and modified the nylon bushing connection points and replaced them with rod end bearings. Then i raised the shift lever itself and lowered the anchor point to the front rod and moved the center attachment point. In doing all this it results in a much shorter throw to change gears and never having to worry about the nylon bushings. The shift lever sit high and closer to the wheel making shifting very easy and quicker and the rod ends add a very solid and stable feel to the shifter.

 

Here is mine.
It is a black forest industries weighted shift ****, nothing too crazy but I love it.

 

Just a heads up for those looking at more options, this company has some and they custom make some as well. Same company that singer uses. Although I noticed the gate(number pattern on ****) is wrong for our car so a message about it during an order might be needed?

http://www.raceseng.com/products/shi...11-964-993-944

(no affiliation)

 

do you have any pics or can you say again how or is there a link to....t, well, i would like to do this to get the shifter closer to the wheel and shorter throws...yes... would appreciate knowing more, tia, kk

 

 

KKS -
I found a few pictures that will help a little - also made a crude drawing that will give you some ideas of what I did.
In a nut shell this is what I did.
1. Replaced front rod with nylon bushings with steel rod and rod end bearings each end ( adjustable length. Ground the round ball ***** off of the fron metal plate and the bottom of the shift lever. Replaced the front ball with a bolt that fit into the front rod end bering. Replaced the ball on the base of the shift lever with a 3 inch bolt (fully threaded) Ran a lock nut up to anchor to the shift lever. Put a collar on bolt about 2 1/4 inch long, washer rod end bearing connecting front rod - then another washer and lock nut.
2. In trans tunnel ( have to drop center cover plate form bottom) remove shift slide tube completely. On front and rear of trans tunnel housing there are 2 holes that the larger shift tube rides or sits in ( held in place by some poor plastic grommets), You want to note the size of these holes and then raise there location as high as you can by cutting out new holes directly above the old locations. *** NOTE on the newer models there maybe an area already marked for this . NOTE - you can not do this with a C4 as the driveshaft runs through this area. Install the tube and slide tube that the shift lever mounts to in the higher location. You may have to make a custom bracket to hold in place, I used aluminum angel and rivets the a sealer. When you go to connect the rear rod that goes to the transmission you will more than likely find that it is hitting the back sheet metal which you will have to bend or cut out of the way. This will shorten the shift throw considerably as it provides for a longer lower arm travel reducing upper shift lever movement.
I hope this makes some sense as I did this about 6 years ago. I am attaching some pictures and drawing to help.

 

thanks gus, deciphering slowly, but see the picture in my head, nice application...is it precise? will it wear and loosen over time?

 

The trick is in using good hardware (lock nuts). I did mine 6 years ago and have not touched or adjusted since. It shortens throw up significantly, enough so that after extending the height of the shift lever considerably the the is about 3/4 of stock. If you have welder you could tax bolts to insure they are locked in place. Trick is length and good clearance.