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Grinding noise after clutch change.

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Old 12-10-2017, 05:15 PM
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MA7008O
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Default Grinding noise after clutch change - SOLVED

Today I finally fire up the car after a reseal due to a head stud failure.<br />After some electrical mistake, I got it to run fine and smoothly, but I get a grinding noise when pressing the clutch pedal.<br />Clutch kit and flywheel are new.<br />Probable the source of the problem is that I used some regular bolts for the clutch it’s self (did not have the right ones…..). I used some allen head bolts, which are probably 2-3 mm taller that the torx ones.<br />Just when I start pressing the pedal I get the grinding noise. Did not fully depressed since I am afraid of damaging something.<br />I attached a video with the noise coming on and off.<br />Any ideas would be very much appreciated.<br />Is the space so tight that 2-3 mm difference are making the bolt touch the gearbox cover?<br />Thanks,
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File Type: avi
2017-12-10_20_33_16.avi (2.40 MB, 143 views)

Last edited by MA7008O; 12-27-2017 at 02:57 PM.
Old 12-10-2017, 08:17 PM
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John McM
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Sure sounds like a rotating object hitting something on a regular basis. A bolt head hitting something is a real possibility. Sorry I can't be more positive, but as I suspect you already know there is only one way to sort this.....
Old 12-11-2017, 12:24 AM
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Super90
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Per my Indy...

"Short head 12 point bolts are needed (these are factory) . When the clutch releases it is pulling the pressure plate assembly into the belhousing causing more interference than it already has. Also need to make sure the disc is installed correctly "transmission side" should be indicated. You could potentially change the bolts through the starter hole. The bolt heads will likely have aluminum on them (from the bell housing)"

I was trying to visualize the issue as I just had all this apart and was trying to picture why you would have a problem.

Also, did you install a dual mass flywheel or convert to single mass?
Old 12-11-2017, 01:22 AM
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John McM
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I used these bolts successfully on my last install. I think I bought them at PP. It's a LFW and RS clutch.
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Old 12-11-2017, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Super90
Per my Indy...

"Short head 12 point bolts are needed (these are factory) . When the clutch releases it is pulling the pressure plate assembly into the belhousing causing more interference than it already has. Also need to make sure the disc is installed correctly "transmission side" should be indicated. You could potentially change the bolts through the starter hole. The bolt heads will likely have aluminum on them (from the bell housing)"

I was trying to visualize the issue as I just had all this apart and was trying to picture why you would have a problem.

Also, did you install a dual mass flywheel or convert to single mass?
Used the original dual mass flywheel.

Interfreance is the key I think.
Old 12-11-2017, 05:36 AM
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MA7008O
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Originally Posted by John McM
I used these bolts successfully on my last install. I think I bought them at PP. It's a LFW and RS clutch.
Those are the ones I used, but as you said before, there is only one way to sort this out…..
Old 12-11-2017, 09:17 AM
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Rocket Rob
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Yes, the bolt heads as most likely too tall. When I bought my C2 and a few years later, we had the engine out for some work, we discovered that the bell housing was all scratched up. Turns out the previous owner had substitute the wrong bolts on the pressure plate. I recommend using the original style bolts.
Old 12-11-2017, 10:22 AM
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Pull the starter first and look inside. My guys are telling me you should be able to see the bolts through there. My understand is you might even be able to swap the bolts out through that hole. If nothing else you should be able to inspect to see if they are what is grinding. This route is far better than dropping the motor first....

Are you certain the clutch disk is not in backwards?

Did your pressure plate/clutch kit not have bolts with it? I seem to remember my Sachs kit had all the hardware....
Old 12-11-2017, 10:31 AM
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This has the proper bolts....

Old 12-11-2017, 11:35 AM
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MA7008O
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Originally Posted by Super90
Pull the starter first and look inside. My guys are telling me you should be able to see the bolts through there. My understand is you might even be able to swap the bolts out through that hole. If nothing else you should be able to inspect to see if they are what is grinding. This route is far better than dropping the motor first....

Are you certain the clutch disk is not in backwards?

Did your pressure plate/clutch kit not have bolts with it? I seem to remember my Sachs kit had all the hardware....
I'll try through the starter, it’s defectively easy tan dropping the engine again.
As far as the clutch disk, now you make me doubt, seriously…. Any way to check???
I am certain that I did no use the proper bolts. The ones I used are 2-3 mm longer at the head.
Thanks,
Old 12-11-2017, 12:01 PM
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JasonAndreas
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Originally Posted by MA7008O
I'll try through the starter, it’s defectively easy tan dropping the engine again.
As far as the clutch disk, now you make me doubt, seriously…. Any way to check???
I am certain that I did no use the proper bolts. The ones I used are 2-3 mm longer at the head.
Thanks,
Did you adjust the clutch pedal stop after installing the new pieces? There is an opening on the bottom of the bell-housing that you can see the bolt heads from, no need to remove the starter. You can also look through the opening on the opposite side (from the starter) of the bell-housing. If the noise is coming from the release fork hitting the front of the pressure plate (incorrectly adjusted clutch pedal stop) you'll see wear on the perimeter of the pressure plate and not on the bolts.
Old 12-11-2017, 12:14 PM
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MA7008O
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Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
Did you adjust the clutch pedal stop after installing the new pieces? There is an opening on the bottom of the bell-housing that you can see the bolt heads from, no need to remove the starter. You can also look through the opening on the opposite side (from the starter) of the bell-housing. If the noise is coming from the release fork hitting the front of the pressure plate (incorrectly adjusted clutch pedal stop) you'll see wear on the perimeter of the pressure plate and not on the bolts.
About the pedal stop, I had no idea I had to.
The noise starts just when I start to press the pedal, after the normal “non-actuating” free play.
Could you explain it to me, please?
Thanks,
Old 12-11-2017, 12:20 PM
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JasonAndreas
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Loosen the fasteners pointed at by the red arrows to move the pedal stop (black rubber directly behind the pedal) and then



use a piece of string or a ruler. The spec for total pedal travel is (150mm ± 5).
Old 12-11-2017, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonAndreas

Loosen the fasteners pointed at by the red arrows to move the pedal stop (black rubber directly behind the pedal) and then



use a piece of string or a ruler. The spec for total pedal travel is (150mm ± 5).
Thanks for the info, had no idea about that.
This procedure is to regulate how far does the pedal travel, right?
I mean, the pedal is supposed to be all the way up, and this procedure is to regulate that it does not goes too far, correct?
If I am correct, this is not the source of the noise, since it starts just by depressing the pedal a little bit, not when it is pressed fully (which actually I haven’t done with engine on due to the noise).
Thanks again,
Old 12-11-2017, 01:21 PM
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JasonAndreas
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Originally Posted by MA70080
it starts just by depressing the pedal a little bit
Is the plunger end of the slave cylinder



resting in the receiving cup of the release fork?




I guess I would start by looking through the opening on the bottom of the bell-housing, if nothing looks out of the ordinary down there. Then head over to the side opening of the bell-housing on the driver's (left - opposite of the starter) side.


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