Shifter is stiff/binding only when hot?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Shifter is stiff/binding only when hot?
I took the 964 out this past weekend for a good drive and noticed after about 3 hours or so of steady easy driving (5th gear, 70mph), the shifter becoming stiff. It wasn't a hot day at all, maybe 75 degrees. It wasn't hard to get in gear or grinding but more of what felt like a binding. It just took a bit more effort to move it around the gate and when I put it in neutral it wouldn't center itself. I did a quick search and everything I came up with was just the opposite, hard to shift when cold. When mine is cold, absolutely no issues. I didn't notice a real change in the clutch pedal feel, just that the shift **** and shaft seemed to be binding a little.
I changed the transmission fluid (Mobil Delvac) a few weeks ago (due to time). Last winter I replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system (due to an unrelated issue which it corrected) and now I'm wondering if maybe I left some air in the system? Granted, I've put almost 4,000 miles on it over this summer but I don't think I've driven it straight through for 3+ hours until now. I was hoping to purchase either the rs shift kit or something similar for a winter project but I'd like to correct this first before I possibly compound the issue by adding parts into the mix.
Any idea's of what I might look for? I thought about the rubber bushings (and was planning on replacing those anyway with the short shifter) but I haven't noticed any sloppiness warm or cold, just the exact opposite when hot.
Cliff Note version :
- Shifter is stiff/binding in the gate after 3+ hour steady drive
- Slave cylinder replaced 4,000 miles ago (with fluid change)
- Transmission fluid changed 500 miles ago (maintenance)
Any guidance you guys might be able to provide me with? I'm going to try to get it up in the air this weekend and take a look at the tunnel. The only issue I see with that though is I don't have access to a lift so even if I get it warm enough to start acting up again by the time I get it back home and up on jack stands it would have cooled off and corrected itself (I tried doing that as soon as I got home this weekend)
Thanks again all!
I changed the transmission fluid (Mobil Delvac) a few weeks ago (due to time). Last winter I replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system (due to an unrelated issue which it corrected) and now I'm wondering if maybe I left some air in the system? Granted, I've put almost 4,000 miles on it over this summer but I don't think I've driven it straight through for 3+ hours until now. I was hoping to purchase either the rs shift kit or something similar for a winter project but I'd like to correct this first before I possibly compound the issue by adding parts into the mix.
Any idea's of what I might look for? I thought about the rubber bushings (and was planning on replacing those anyway with the short shifter) but I haven't noticed any sloppiness warm or cold, just the exact opposite when hot.
Cliff Note version :
- Shifter is stiff/binding in the gate after 3+ hour steady drive
- Slave cylinder replaced 4,000 miles ago (with fluid change)
- Transmission fluid changed 500 miles ago (maintenance)
Any guidance you guys might be able to provide me with? I'm going to try to get it up in the air this weekend and take a look at the tunnel. The only issue I see with that though is I don't have access to a lift so even if I get it warm enough to start acting up again by the time I get it back home and up on jack stands it would have cooled off and corrected itself (I tried doing that as soon as I got home this weekend)
Thanks again all!
#3
Burning Brakes
Several bushings that can contribute to this, and I would want to know that those cup bushings are good before driving more, as, if the front one fails, it will leave you stranded, or at least stuck in one gear.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...fter-tube.html
Last edited by Super90; 10-03-2017 at 03:35 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
My shifter still felt pretty decent when I took it in for the Goldenrod Short Shifter upgrade.
The forward rod cup just felt apart once it was taken off...
The forward rod cup just felt apart once it was taken off...
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Beautiful! Thank you gentlemen! Time to get her up on jack stands and make a list of replacement bushings and see if that works out. If anything, it gives me an excuse to go for another nice long drive!
#7
Burning Brakes
Just do all the shifter bushings. They are all old and questionable it will be a "one and done" effort and you can rule that whole "system" out for future problems going forward.
Well...you see my approach to maintaining a 25+ year old car. : )
Well...you see my approach to maintaining a 25+ year old car. : )
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
That sounds like a better plan. Time to pull up PET and start pointing and clicking
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Quick question for you guys, I was under the car today taking a look at it. I've ordered all of the usual replacement bushings and came across this.....
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the whole set up dry? I found this red, what looks like some silicone based goop. Thinking I should clean that off and grab new bushings for that too? I was going to in the first place but those were $25 each (x4) and I'd be lying if I wasn't trying to save some money by not ordering them with everything else.
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the whole set up dry? I found this red, what looks like some silicone based goop. Thinking I should clean that off and grab new bushings for that too? I was going to in the first place but those were $25 each (x4) and I'd be lying if I wasn't trying to save some money by not ordering them with everything else.
#12
Burning Brakes
I know some wheel bearing grease that is a red color like that. Are you certain it's not a type of grease? What does it feel like?
Probably clean it up check everything and replace bushings and then, as Rob says, use the Optimoly MPO which Porsche seems to like on applications where there are plastics involved, as bushings etc.
Mine had some lubrication on there in that spot when I took it all apart. No telling what it was or who put it there. Someone had been in there since the car was built...
Probably clean it up check everything and replace bushings and then, as Rob says, use the Optimoly MPO which Porsche seems to like on applications where there are plastics involved, as bushings etc.
Mine had some lubrication on there in that spot when I took it all apart. No telling what it was or who put it there. Someone had been in there since the car was built...
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Sorry gentlemen, you are correct. It looks like some kind of grease, I think Super90 hit it on the head with it being wheel bearing grease. I've also seen red wheel bearing grease and it has the same consistency as this. Time to pick up some Optimoly MPO.
And someone DEFINITELY has been in here before! Check out my tube! This looks like nothing I've come across online. 1 side is welded on, the other has a set screw and the word "china" stamped into it. The wonders you find sometimes with a used car . I found 1 #28 laying in the boot and both #26 missing also.
And someone DEFINITELY has been in here before! Check out my tube! This looks like nothing I've come across online. 1 side is welded on, the other has a set screw and the word "china" stamped into it. The wonders you find sometimes with a used car . I found 1 #28 laying in the boot and both #26 missing also.
#14
Burning Brakes
So that is in place of #27 ?!
Hmmm...The plot thickens...
Maybe that's part is ok, but if you go back to factory parts...looks like you need 27, 26's (YOM specific, early are circular, later are oval),28's, a new set of 4's, and maybe replace all the 6's. I bought new c-clips, just in case, which are #8, but I didn't need them. But be careful.
The rubber boots on mine were getting dry and cracking, so new #18 and #19 for me too.
Hmmm...The plot thickens...
Maybe that's part is ok, but if you go back to factory parts...looks like you need 27, 26's (YOM specific, early are circular, later are oval),28's, a new set of 4's, and maybe replace all the 6's. I bought new c-clips, just in case, which are #8, but I didn't need them. But be careful.
The rubber boots on mine were getting dry and cracking, so new #18 and #19 for me too.