rkwfxd

Is this possible or am I going to have to drop the engine?

If possible, what all do I need to remove and if you did it did you access that pulley bolt working from the top or from the bottom of the car.

I understand I will need a couple of special crank pulley removal tools.

Thanks

Bushrat

Recall removing the crank pulley from my 86 930 when going to a serpentine system. Worked under the car and used an air impact to remove the bolt.

deadendd9009

Its possible, I did it. Using the Porsche Tool is likely the only viable way, but the car has to be high enough to use it (the bar is quite long. I dropped the rear of my engine about 4in to gain enough clearance.

rkwfxd

OK, now dropping the rear 4", do I need to disconnect any wires / tubes / hoses / fuel lines for that?

Can I just support it on a jack, unbolt the mounts and lower it the 4 inches?

After I raise and support the car on jack stands of course.

Did you need to remove the rear bumper?

Thanks

cscrogham

Start by removing the rear bumper, no way to get it done with the bumper in place and it is easy to remove (don't forget the electrical connection to tag lights is behind the passenger tail light).
You will need to remove the rear engine support which means find a nice medium height to rest the engine on some stands and just start removing parts. Tedious but can be done without too much trouble. Comment here and someone will help you if you get stuck, good luck!

AOW162435

While the rear bumper & exhaust systems are different between 964 & 993 models, accessing the crank pulley is pretty much the same joyful exercise. I've done this four times.

For a 993, I have the car on stands and remove: both mufflers, catalytic converter, crossover pipe, rear engine tin and engine carrier. Before removing the motor mount bolts, I position two flat-top stands under the heat exchangers, and a jack under the case. Remove the motor mount bolts and lower the engine an inch or so onto the stands.

I've never removed a rear bumper for this work, but it would certainly help to access the rear heat shield fasteners.


Two years ago when I did this work on my '95:





Andreas

rkwfxd

All of this is great info but.... as I look at this job I keep thinking how much easier it is to just write a check.

ffc

Posts 1 and 2 here http://perelet.com/cars/porsche/leaks_thread/1.html

rkwfxd

Wow! Great post and great photos. Looks like a straight shot at the crank pulley once the bumper is off, engine is supported and engine mount is removed.

maybe I WILL do this myself.

John McM

I'll be the nana poster here today.

Porsche have a special tool for this job, for a reason.

Even if the rattle gun is acceptable for undoing the nut, how are you going to apply the 235 Nm of torque to do it back up? I imagine you could hold the crankshaft still at the flywheel end and have a good swing on the torque wrench at the other end or similar. The crank is strong but why not borrow a tool and do it the right way?

I'm not near my car right so can't be absolutely sure, but even with the correct tool the car needs to be high off the ground to allow the tool to engage because the air con mount interferes with it. You then need a torque wrench capable of 235Nm, which is a big one!

I love DIY and have all of the right gear, including a lift. This is a job I would farm out to a mechanic, if I didn't. I'd check he has the right gear first though

AOW162435

John,
I'd never use an impact gun to remove the crank bolt, nor would I put the car in gear to loosen/tighten the bolt.

I realize the 964 & 993 crank pulleys are different, but the concept is the same. In order to retain the 993 crank pulley, I made my own tool that comfortably rests against the ground while the bolt is removed or reinstalled.

On three occasions I've installed Clewett serpentine belt systems. The Clewett pulley does not have the two pin holes that the factory crank pulley has, so I modified a strap wrench using a multirib belt in place of the usual rubber strap. This allows me to securely hold the Clewett pulley while bringing the crank bolt to torque.
























Andreas

John McM

Your approach is very similar to the special 964 tool, albeit the 964 tool clasps around the bolt heads. The problem with that is that it needs to be fully inserted to work and the air con mount only allows that with the tool being close to vertical. Given the length of the tool that means the engine must be elevated. My pic here of the tool is just for show as the air con mount wasn't installed at that point in time. I had to have it near vertical when tightening it with the air con holder in place.

C4inLA

You MacGyver'd some nice tools... Got me thinking ...

AOW162435

Pic showing my junker in the air during the above-referenced work. Plenty of height to allow my 3' long crank holding tool to rest against the garage floor:








Andreas

rotorheadcase

Love the ingenuity Andreas. I'm doing the Clewett conversion on my 964 a little later this year and would appreciate some more info on the strap wrench.

Neil