Engine rebuild....ground zero
11-20-2017, 05:55 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So true. A reseal was wishful thinking (at 192k). You could make a case for replacing just about every part you put a wrench on. A line has to be drawn somewhere.....that's the hard part. Should be good for another 200k when I'm done.
12-22-2017, 12:42 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
BTW can anyone recommend a PRC (piston ring compressor)? The Gearwrench in this pic one looks correct, several size bands to choose. Thoughts ?
12-22-2017, 01:38 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
I used a generic one. If I recall correctly the largest band was for 100mm pistons so I was on the limit. It worked though.
You'll also see that I marked the orientation on the tool. With everything going on it would be easy to get that wrong and risk breaking a ring.
I put the ring gaps on at 120 degree spacing and the gap on the oil ring facing the intake.
Good luck.
You'll also see that I marked the orientation on the tool. With everything going on it would be easy to get that wrong and risk breaking a ring.
I put the ring gaps on at 120 degree spacing and the gap on the oil ring facing the intake.
Good luck.
12-22-2017, 01:51 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes ring position is critical. Even though these P &C's are new in the box, they still need to be weighed, cleaned & ring position adjusted. Slow & steady as I don't want to break a ring or scratch a bore.
BTW I refer to your rebuild thread constantly lol.
12-22-2017, 02:07 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
As for the thread, I refer to it constantly as well. With two cars I often end up going back to a section to remember how I did a particular task, including the torque settings.
02-09-2018, 12:07 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
What do most use for a chain tensioner (for cam timing). I have a brake pad spreader (see pic). How do I know the proper amount of tension to apply?
