The rebuild begins ...
#17
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Euromagination
Also, if you dont mind me asking... at what mileage is the motor?
#18
I've also documented my topend rebuild.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hlight=rebuild
You may refer or add to it.
I still have to do the post rebuild write up. But car is running great 4K miles after rebuild.
---
anthony
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hlight=rebuild
You may refer or add to it.
I still have to do the post rebuild write up. But car is running great 4K miles after rebuild.
---
anthony
#19
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by dkeen
Do you think someone with good mechanical skills and persistence (but little experience with major work like this) can do this? Half of me (the scared half) says take it to the shop. The other half loves the challenge.
Originally Posted by dkeen
Also, I have a jack and stands. From reading Adrian's book it sounds like I should be able to balance the engine on the jack. Did you find this difficult? I noticed you bought the adaptors for the jack to help with balance, but it really seems precarious and seems like an engine stand is needed.
Originally Posted by dkeen
Do you need to put the front of the car on stands (considering you had to take it off the front stands to get the engine out)?
Originally Posted by dkeen
How high does the rear of the car need to be to get the engine out? Were the jack stands at top height enough?
Originally Posted by dkeen
Did you end up supporting the car with the rear jack stands where Adrian suggests in his book?
Originally Posted by dkeen
Where did you get your copy of the Workshop Manual and did it really help? (all I can find are CD versions and hard copies that cost $800).
Originally Posted by dkeen
Can you please list the "special" tools that you needed to complete the job? I have metric sockets, etc. Just want to know if there are any big ticket items I need to consider before embarking on this journey.
Originally Posted by dkeen
What potential pitfalls did you encounter, or what should I be wary of?
Originally Posted by dkeen
Once the engine was out, how do you move it around? If its still on the jack, how will you now work on it?
#20
Instructor
This is a great thread. I appreciate all the time you and axl911 (who did an excellent job in documenting the top end rebuild) have devoted in educating us on the rebuild process. I plan to drop my motor in the not to distant future and the information you are providing is giving me the confidence to tackle the job on my own.
THANKS!
THANKS!
#22
Race Director
Thread Starter
Finally, the engine is on the stand and ready for stripping. I ran into a lot of undocumented things removing the Tiptronic transmission from the engine.
There are 8 bolts connecting the torque converter to the carrier plate. It is necessary to remove the starter to access these bolts.
In Adrians book, he says to make sure that the torque converter stays attached to the transmission. Oh well, that didn't happen, so we will see what the consequences of that are.
Upon seperating the engine and transmission, you are presented with the carrier plate, which is bolted to the crankshaft by the 9 Torx bolts. This must be removed now. I used a piece of holy metal to keep the engine from turning while untorquing the bolts with a 2 foot breaker bar.
Next was removing the carrier plate. I used some more holy metal as a handle, and then worked it off. This gives access to the 4 bolts holding the converter housing to the engine case. removing this gives access to the holes used to mount the engine to the engine mount.
And magic, it's mounted to the engine stand. I did go out and get the U shaped engine stand, as the T type that I had seemed very unstable as was mentioned by a helpful rennlister.
The stripping will begin this week!
There are 8 bolts connecting the torque converter to the carrier plate. It is necessary to remove the starter to access these bolts.
In Adrians book, he says to make sure that the torque converter stays attached to the transmission. Oh well, that didn't happen, so we will see what the consequences of that are.
Upon seperating the engine and transmission, you are presented with the carrier plate, which is bolted to the crankshaft by the 9 Torx bolts. This must be removed now. I used a piece of holy metal to keep the engine from turning while untorquing the bolts with a 2 foot breaker bar.
Next was removing the carrier plate. I used some more holy metal as a handle, and then worked it off. This gives access to the 4 bolts holding the converter housing to the engine case. removing this gives access to the holes used to mount the engine to the engine mount.
And magic, it's mounted to the engine stand. I did go out and get the U shaped engine stand, as the T type that I had seemed very unstable as was mentioned by a helpful rennlister.
The stripping will begin this week!
#23
Burgled
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I read something on this the other day. May have been on the 993 board. When it goes back together the torque converter needed to be attached to the transmission. Seems it broke off some pins when done the other way and would no longer go into gear. I could be wrong so do a search.
#24
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Winnipeg, MB Canada
Posts: 1,400
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Sundog,
I'm not far behind you. I managed to drop the engine out of my '89 C4 on monday night. Its sitting on the jack waiting for me to get it on an engine stand now.
I am looking to correct two problems:
1. My transmission will not shifty properly because the clutch will not fully disengage, after replacing the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, flexible line, and profuse bleeding I have come to the conclusion its an internal problem. I am looking forward to finding out what the previous owner had done. (lightened flywheels, or who knows what)
2. I have oil leaking profusely from the base of the cylinder heads between the cylinder and the block. (what a surprise on a 964)
Unfortuneatly I work out of town on weekdays, so I wont be able to continue working until friday night, but I look forward to following your progress and comparing notes with you on the rebuild.
Kirk
p.s. Your motor looks like new and mine looks like it came out of an old tractor! Why is yours so clean!!!!
I'm not far behind you. I managed to drop the engine out of my '89 C4 on monday night. Its sitting on the jack waiting for me to get it on an engine stand now.
I am looking to correct two problems:
1. My transmission will not shifty properly because the clutch will not fully disengage, after replacing the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, flexible line, and profuse bleeding I have come to the conclusion its an internal problem. I am looking forward to finding out what the previous owner had done. (lightened flywheels, or who knows what)
2. I have oil leaking profusely from the base of the cylinder heads between the cylinder and the block. (what a surprise on a 964)
Unfortuneatly I work out of town on weekdays, so I wont be able to continue working until friday night, but I look forward to following your progress and comparing notes with you on the rebuild.
Kirk
p.s. Your motor looks like new and mine looks like it came out of an old tractor! Why is yours so clean!!!!
#26
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Winnipeg, MB Canada
Posts: 1,400
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
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7 Posts
Lets see if I managed to figure out how to attach a picture or not:
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/20...0cl_medium.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/20...0cl_medium.jpg
#28
Originally Posted by sundog
It is at 168000 miles. First complete rebuild at 120K miles, second lower end rebuild at 145K miles. Now for the third, and final.
Hi
Just reading through the thread. Why so many rebuilds in a short space of time?
This one due to shavings in the oil. What caused the other two. Great thread!
#29
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by robbed666
Hi
Just reading through the thread. Why so many rebuilds in a short space of time?
This one due to shavings in the oil. What caused the other two. Great thread!
Just reading through the thread. Why so many rebuilds in a short space of time?
This one due to shavings in the oil. What caused the other two. Great thread!
#30
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Good luck Sundog.
If it can help, I used baby diapers when I was doing particularly messy work. Sucks everything dry and does not leak... a relative good buy for the convenience. FWIW
If it can help, I used baby diapers when I was doing particularly messy work. Sucks everything dry and does not leak... a relative good buy for the convenience. FWIW