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The rebuild begins ...

 
 
Old 09-30-2005, 10:56 AM
  #16  
dkeen
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I'm in N. Raleigh, near the intersection of Millbrook and Creedmore. I appreciate the offer, and I'll let you know.

Dave
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Old 09-30-2005, 11:58 AM
  #17  
sundog
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Originally Posted by Euromagination
Also, if you dont mind me asking... at what mileage is the motor?
It is at 168000 miles. First complete rebuild at 120K miles, second lower end rebuild at 145K miles. Now for the third, and final.
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Old 09-30-2005, 01:05 PM
  #18  
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I've also documented my topend rebuild.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hlight=rebuild

You may refer or add to it.

I still have to do the post rebuild write up. But car is running great 4K miles after rebuild.

---
anthony
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Old 09-30-2005, 02:05 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by dkeen
Do you think someone with good mechanical skills and persistence (but little experience with major work like this) can do this? Half of me (the scared half) says take it to the shop. The other half loves the challenge.
Yes you can. I haven't dont this kind of major work in over 20 years, since I got a "real job" and could afford to pay others to do it for me. Takes patience, and care, and a lot of referring to references.
Originally Posted by dkeen
Also, I have a jack and stands. From reading Adrian's book it sounds like I should be able to balance the engine on the jack. Did you find this difficult? I noticed you bought the adaptors for the jack to help with balance, but it really seems precarious and seems like an engine stand is needed.
I would not attempt this without either the Porsche jack adapter, or the one I got from pelican parts. 911 Engine/Transmission Jack Adapter - 3.2/3.6 liter For the rebuild an engine stand is clearly necessary.
Originally Posted by dkeen
Do you need to put the front of the car on stands (considering you had to take it off the front stands to get the engine out)?
Probably not, but I liked it for 2 reasons. First, with the car level on 4 jackstands I felt that it was safer. The car was not "tilted up" and resting on the front wheels, therefore able to roll off the stands. And secondly, it was 18" from the floor to the bottom of the jacking points, making it a good height for me to work under the car and get the necessary leverage for removing stubborn bolts.
Originally Posted by dkeen
How high does the rear of the car need to be to get the engine out? Were the jack stands at top height enough?
With my jack and engine adapter combo, I needed 35" clearance from the floor to the bottom of the rear bumper to extricate the engine. I still had another 4 inches on the rear jackstands to use, but my second jack didn't go any higher.
Originally Posted by dkeen
Did you end up supporting the car with the rear jack stands where Adrian suggests in his book?
I used the standard jacking points in front of the rear tires.
Originally Posted by dkeen
Where did you get your copy of the Workshop Manual and did it really help? (all I can find are CD versions and hard copies that cost $800).
I plead the 5th, and if all you are going to do is remove the engine, then Adrians book is all you need.
Originally Posted by dkeen
Can you please list the "special" tools that you needed to complete the job? I have metric sockets, etc. Just want to know if there are any big ticket items I need to consider before embarking on this journey.
I had to get hex sockets for the removal of the axles from the transmission. I needed a variety of extensions for my sockets. I had to get an impact wrench to get the rear engine mounting bolts off. I can't believe that there are only 2 bolts holding the entire rear end of the engine off the ground. I got the whole impact set for $69 at Home Depot, already had a compressor for other jobs.
Originally Posted by dkeen
What potential pitfalls did you encounter, or what should I be wary of?
Be wary of safety when under the car. A lot of hard torque to get some bolts off, make extra sure that you have some wood blocks to catch the car if it comes off the stands. Also, lower the engine very slowly and make sure it is balanced, and things don't get caught.
Originally Posted by dkeen
Once the engine was out, how do you move it around? If its still on the jack, how will you now work on it?
I moved it around on the jack, pretty well balanced with the engine adapter. I have a mainley engine stand adapter, also from Pelican. I will put the engine on it later this weekend, if the wife's birthday does not interfere?
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Old 09-30-2005, 02:31 PM
  #20  
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This is a great thread. I appreciate all the time you and axl911 (who did an excellent job in documenting the top end rebuild) have devoted in educating us on the rebuild process. I plan to drop my motor in the not to distant future and the information you are providing is giving me the confidence to tackle the job on my own.

THANKS!
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:48 PM
  #21  
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GREAT THREAD!!!!!!!!

Although I can feel the heart palpatations beginning as I read the posts and look at the pics!
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:29 AM
  #22  
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Finally, the engine is on the stand and ready for stripping. I ran into a lot of undocumented things removing the Tiptronic transmission from the engine.

There are 8 bolts connecting the torque converter to the carrier plate. It is necessary to remove the starter to access these bolts.

In Adrians book, he says to make sure that the torque converter stays attached to the transmission. Oh well, that didn't happen, so we will see what the consequences of that are.

Upon seperating the engine and transmission, you are presented with the carrier plate, which is bolted to the crankshaft by the 9 Torx bolts. This must be removed now. I used a piece of holy metal to keep the engine from turning while untorquing the bolts with a 2 foot breaker bar.

Next was removing the carrier plate. I used some more holy metal as a handle, and then worked it off. This gives access to the 4 bolts holding the converter housing to the engine case. removing this gives access to the holes used to mount the engine to the engine mount.

And magic, it's mounted to the engine stand. I did go out and get the U shaped engine stand, as the T type that I had seemed very unstable as was mentioned by a helpful rennlister.

The stripping will begin this week!
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:16 AM
  #23  
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I read something on this the other day. May have been on the 993 board. When it goes back together the torque converter needed to be attached to the transmission. Seems it broke off some pins when done the other way and would no longer go into gear. I could be wrong so do a search.
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:39 PM
  #24  
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Sundog,

I'm not far behind you. I managed to drop the engine out of my '89 C4 on monday night. Its sitting on the jack waiting for me to get it on an engine stand now.

I am looking to correct two problems:

1. My transmission will not shifty properly because the clutch will not fully disengage, after replacing the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, flexible line, and profuse bleeding I have come to the conclusion its an internal problem. I am looking forward to finding out what the previous owner had done. (lightened flywheels, or who knows what)

2. I have oil leaking profusely from the base of the cylinder heads between the cylinder and the block. (what a surprise on a 964)

Unfortuneatly I work out of town on weekdays, so I wont be able to continue working until friday night, but I look forward to following your progress and comparing notes with you on the rebuild.

Kirk
p.s. Your motor looks like new and mine looks like it came out of an old tractor! Why is yours so clean!!!!
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Old 10-11-2005, 11:52 PM
  #25  
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It had a complete rebuild about 20K miles ago. I thought it was much dirtier than it should be.
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Old 10-12-2005, 02:17 AM
  #26  
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Lets see if I managed to figure out how to attach a picture or not:

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/20...0cl_medium.jpg
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Old 10-12-2005, 02:20 AM
  #27  
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Hmm. Maybe like this?
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Old 10-12-2005, 03:59 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by sundog
It is at 168000 miles. First complete rebuild at 120K miles, second lower end rebuild at 145K miles. Now for the third, and final.

Hi
Just reading through the thread. Why so many rebuilds in a short space of time?
This one due to shavings in the oil. What caused the other two. Great thread!
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:35 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by robbed666
Hi
Just reading through the thread. Why so many rebuilds in a short space of time?
This one due to shavings in the oil. What caused the other two. Great thread!
The first rebuild was done by PO. I was told by the dealer, that it was an insurance rebuild, sugar in tank? $20,000 for a complete rebuild. This was 5K miles before I bought it at 120K miles. The second was at 140K miles, and was also due to a rod bearing that had disentegrated, $13,000 for that one. Now 20K miles later another rod bearing gone bad. When I crack the case, I will painstakingly examine all of the components to evaluate what was responsible for the damage. I'm shooting for less that $6,000 for this rebuild, but have already spent $600 on tools, and another $150 on good wine to appease the wife.
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Old 10-12-2005, 12:53 PM
  #30  
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Good luck Sundog.

If it can help, I used baby diapers when I was doing particularly messy work. Sucks everything dry and does not leak... a relative good buy for the convenience. FWIW
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