Control Arm bushings on an 87 951
#1
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are the front bushing replaceable on 87, non-S control arms? If so, what are the options and does anyone have a write up for the procedure? TIA
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#2
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You have choices of stock, Delrin (hard and can be squeaky), Urethane (softer but not great in an oily environment) and then the spherical types, sealed and non-sealed and usually anodized.
Thing on the factory replacements, they are $60 a pair, so you are already half way to sphericals at $120 for both arms.
I don't have a write up but could talk you through it.
Skip used to do a lot of how-to write ups with pics for Paragon...., have you checked their tech section....?
Also, Elephant Racing has a tool that supposedly makes the job easier but if I were doing just 1 car, I believe I'd forgo the price and just muscle through it.
I always use the spherical. Even on your old ones, before you loosen the crossmember pass through bolt, with the arm free of the ball joint, you can stand all your weight on the arm and the travel is limited by the torsional resistance of the rubber.
You want as free of movement in any suspension arm, race or street.
When you have the front and rear spherical (Rr=caster block), with all hardware tightened to spec, you can hold the arm horizontal to the ground, let it go and it will swing like a pendulum.
This is a major improvement
Same for the rear....anybody reading that thinks toe and camber aren't moving around even in spirited street driving with those 30 year old torsion tube outer rubber bushings is kidding themselves.
Poly-bronze all the way there....!
Take it easy,
T
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
LOL posted at the same time ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Yep.
http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...erbushings.htm
I have some cheaper Polyurethane red bushings on mine but to do it again I would go with these or a bearing.
And they can suck to remove the old ones
Edit: You were talking the front control arms right???
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Yep.
http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...erbushings.htm
I have some cheaper Polyurethane red bushings on mine but to do it again I would go with these or a bearing.
And they can suck to remove the old ones
Edit: You were talking the front control arms right???
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Outstanding. Thanks! I'll go with Elephant for sure. It just makes sense. I may bite the bullet on the tool, anyway. The equation goes something like this. $120./100*F x middle age + no patience+A.D.D. = screw it! Buy the damn tool! lol Thanks for the feedback, guys!
#5
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The tool avoids messing up the arms, a common problem when you try to cut the steel part of those front bushes from the aluminum arm. It's easy to cut through and score (weaken) the aluminum and then you have a choice to make. The tool is simple and works very well.
#6
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The tool would definitely be easier. If you know what you're doing and know how thick the bushing you have to cut is, then it's still a pain. If you don't know and are wild, then you might destroy a few control arms like I did.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would love to hear how the tool is.
I used a 20 ton press at work. It took a ton of work to get the dam things out....no pun intended. This was back in 2009 I can't remember the details other than it took a couple hours.
I used a 20 ton press at work. It took a ton of work to get the dam things out....no pun intended. This was back in 2009 I can't remember the details other than it took a couple hours.
Trending Topics
#8
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here you go: Elephant Racing Tool It says to use a hammer or a press on the end of the tool, after soaking in PB Blaster for a day I hit it with an air gun and it came right out.
#9
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know the site well just have not heard anyone's experience ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Here you go: Elephant Racing Tool It says to use a hammer or a press on the end of the tool, after soaking in PB Blaster for a day I hit it with an air gun and it came right out.
#11
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good stuff! Thanks! I'll get the tool for removing the springs but I can make my own tool for installing the new ones For what is, I'm sure, much cheaper.