Slave and Master Cylinder for clutch
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Slave and Master Cylinder for clutch
Dear All,
My clutch pedal seems to start to no coming back all the way all the the time and from what i am reading it might be the salve and master cylinder time to be change..
My car is a 944 turbo 1986.
I was wondering what is the time required to do such a work (Exchange both parts)? for a normal mechanic.
Thanks
My clutch pedal seems to start to no coming back all the way all the the time and from what i am reading it might be the salve and master cylinder time to be change..
My car is a 944 turbo 1986.
I was wondering what is the time required to do such a work (Exchange both parts)? for a normal mechanic.
Thanks
#2
Drifting
Bleeding can be the hurdle. A couple hours to swap parts if you are skinny enough not to have to pull the drivers seat to get to the push rod on the master.
You might throw in a flex line and a supply hose on your parts order.
You might throw in a flex line and a supply hose on your parts order.
#4
Nordschleife Master
I also replaced the line between the master & slave when I did mine. It's a pain to do with the engine in and added an extra hour to the job. Once removed I saw that the flexible part of that line was looking very brittle and cracked so I was happy I changed it, it was probably 30 years old.
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#9
Drifting
Notes;
There was an article on Flussig where the pushrod was not unclipped from the pedal and he reused the old rod.
The mounting bolts for the master can be cumbersome even with the harness out of the way. I used three different brands/lengths/angles of open ends.
If you use pinch clamps, install the supply line to the master before installation.
If the master has been leaking, a new gasket and some rustproofing at the firewall may be in order.
Tighten the flex line to where it doesn't rub on the brake booster but I believe turbo cars have the hard and flex line opposite because of the heat.
Bleeding.
Raising the rear of the car helps.
Blocking the clutch fork from moving helps
Bench bleeding prior to installation helps
Filling from the bottom helps.
There was an article on Flussig where the pushrod was not unclipped from the pedal and he reused the old rod.
The mounting bolts for the master can be cumbersome even with the harness out of the way. I used three different brands/lengths/angles of open ends.
If you use pinch clamps, install the supply line to the master before installation.
If the master has been leaking, a new gasket and some rustproofing at the firewall may be in order.
Tighten the flex line to where it doesn't rub on the brake booster but I believe turbo cars have the hard and flex line opposite because of the heat.
Bleeding.
Raising the rear of the car helps.
Blocking the clutch fork from moving helps
Bench bleeding prior to installation helps
Filling from the bottom helps.
#11
Drifting
When 'this should be easy' turns into 'what a nightmare', the learning curve to get a bubble to move one way or the other gets steep ....only to find they move easier on a 45* angle. Lol))
My car is feisty so sometimes it's a battle.
My car is feisty so sometimes it's a battle.