OZ951

This is the vac diagram from my mods page. It bypasses the cycling valve.



Sort out the vacuum connections and the ref sensor before you start messing with anything else. Also make sure that all the connections from the link box to the wiring harness are good. If those piggy back type connectors were used, check them out very carefully. Personally I dont like them and use alternative means to connect to the harness for reliability sakes.

The link box will not lose its values, mine stayed in the system from April through September with no power. So of the car was running when you got it you can assume that the values in the system will be good enough to keep it running now. If you start changing those values you really will make it hard to isolate the problem.

User 41221

Yep, I know that if I start messing with the Link settings, then I will REALLY be in trouble at this point. That diagram is the one I was looking for, thank you for posting it! Aside from substituting my MBC for the Apexi, this looks to be the ticket!

Regards,

Mledbetter

Nope... It actually writes the settings. I had the battery out for a month and started it up with no problems when I replaced it.

I had some leaks, which is why I replaced most of the lines. I don't think it sounds like that is the problem. It should run even with some major leaks.

Good luck...

-Matt

User 41221

Could it be a problem with the factory alarm? I thought I got it all back to stock, but perhaps I didn't. Bypassing the factory alarm is a matter of disconnecting the plus and jumpering pins 1 and 3, IIRC. Can anyone confirm that for me?

Regards,

User 41221

Update:

I have gone through the vacuum lines and am convinced thats not the problem, especially since, as Sami pointed out, MAP doesn't rely on vacuum anyway. I have also removed the factory alarm unit and jumpered pins 1 and 4 (not 1 and 3 like I had originally posted). I have not replaced the ref sensors (yet), but have them put together in such a way that I am pretty sure they are functioning okay.

The car starts without problem, but won't run. If the car has been sitting and I start it, it will die within a few seconds of starting. After restarting a few time, the length of time it will idle increases, up to about 20-25 seconds. If I give it part throttle, it dies immediately. At WOT, it seems to catch and run, but I obviously can't do that for long periods of time... After restarting the car a few times, the idle initially is pretty good, but then the rpms start dropping until it eventually dies.

Because of the part throttle condition and variances in idle, I am starting to think this may be a tuning issue, altho I can't for the life of me think how I might have changed the settings. The only other thing I can think of is that the DME itself had a solder connection pop loose while I was removing the aftermarket wiring or installing the A/F meter and is causing the problem. I may try and swap in another DME this weekend.

Ideas?

Sami951

Did you have some sort of an A/F gauge installed in there? The stock O2 sensor is heated if I'm not entirely mistaken, so it should come on-line if you just keep the ignition key in 2nd position (this will also give power to the Link MAP box, so you can check some stuff with the tuning module if you like) for a few minutes... then start the car up and see what sort of figures you get there. I'm guessing it goes overly rich for some reason, as to why - beats me, things shouldn't just go bad like that.

Just one thing that came to my mind - when you did the vacuum lines, did you connect the one small line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator? I don't really know what would happen if you didn't, but I have this gut feeling that it just might give too much pressure for low load conditions like idling.

(The FPR uses the vacuum signal for adjusting pressure, right?? Or did I just make myself an idiot here? )

edit: if you feel brave, you could plug in the link tuning module, ignition to 2nd pos. to get power to it, then simply adjust Master AFM to like -10%, -15% or even -20% and save the settings... try starting, if it holds even some sort of idle, there was too much fuel going in. If not, it's probably something else, but at least you'll know... if it is indeed too rich, I would suggest trying to figure out why instead of just tuning it out with the link module, unless you're lazy like me

Mledbetter

Check out the fuel settings and make sure it is still leaned out quite a bit at idle. I forget what I left it at... -15% maybe.

-Matt

User 41221

Hey Matt, are you thinking you sold the car to an idiot yet? lol

Thanks for the continued support, guys. I can't actually drive the car yet, as I still need to replace the radiator (thanks to Lone Star Transportation for destroying the car in transit). Its getting closer tho.

Regards,

User 41221

Just went down and checked the settings, the Master AFM is set at 0%... think thats my problem? Time to really learn how to program that thing. I have no clue atthis point...

Off to try and download some directions for the Link...

Regards,

Mledbetter

Master AFM should be 0%... Just use that to get an idea of what you need to do, before changing a specific part of the map.

If you go to the idle range... I think it might be 300, give or take.. you should be able to find it at -15% or so. Let me see if I can dig up my notes.

-Matt

NZ951

I had the exact same issue when I loaded an old incorret fuel map into my Link. I think you will find its a settings thing...

ewainwright

Hi There

I've been away for a while. The A/F gauge will not help you until the car is hot. I agree with OZ951 in not touching the Link settings if the car was running perviously.

Edit: I just looked over my notes documenting my experiences with the Link Map and I noted a similar condition when cells 205 305 were rich. I also experienced a similar condition when my throttle position switch went bad. If you must play with your link setting grab a Zone Work Sheet and write out all the current values first. This my save your ***.

The Master being set at Zero by itself means nothing. The Master moves all of the cells either positively or negatively. In fact, if you were setting up the Link system according to the supplied manual the Master wouldn't be set at Zero.

The Link manual calls for setting the Master (+/-) to the point were your car was idling perviously. Also note that when starting the car and coming off the line the car will go through zone 505 and 405 briefly. Interestingly, the link data recorder does not document that. But, if you are looking at you hand held tuning module you will see it.

Finally, I've tried other people's MAP settings on my car (OZ's being the first). They don't necessarily work well. It seems that all our car's link values are somewhat different until WOT. I have a Excel spread sheet given to me by one member then given back modified more by another. If you want them PM me. along with the data recorder there is value. Ultimately you will have to visit a dyno. The off idle stumble will not go away. I strongly recommend 1.8 resistor for initial tuning and getting your idle running at 14.7 Good Luck ed

PS You are not a big dummy. The Link system takes time to get a handle on. I think that we all can say that our tuning is a work in progress only because we love cars. Anything else that would demand as much time would be historty