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You need to clamp that overflow hose shut (completely) to properly pressure test the system. Can't tell from your post if you did that, or if coolant came out the unclamped overflow when you tested?
Light puffs of white smoke can also just be condensation. When the HG is really bad, it will spit out little drops of black liquid, along with steam. Best I can describe it is like black water color paint splatter. Was it hard to start and did it stumble to a start? That would make it more likely that the moisture was inside the cylinders, rather than condensing in the exhaust. I wouldn't let it go to long if you think it's leaking. Water in the oil and combustion chamber is bad. I'd keep a close eye on the oil filler cap for that mocha milkshake goo that builds up when the HG (or oil seals) are leaking. My tried and true test for early-stage suspect HG's is to put the overflow hose in a plastic bottle with the coolant fully vented and filled to the low level. Then drive around town gentle for a good 30-45 minutes and check if you get any overflow. If none, then go out and get on the boost for a while and recheck the bottle. If you consistently get overflow when driving on boost, even after the fluid level is very low, then that's a pretty clear sign of a leaking gasket. (The boost-enhanced combustion pressure pressurizes the cooling system through the HG leak, and pushes out the overflow hose.)
Tom,
I was talking about the previous coolant leak, had it was pinched off this time.
I will try the water bottle overflow test you suggest next weekend, I appreciate your follow up on the matter, I am whittling away at the mystery. I won't leave it with water in places it shouldn't be long term.
So I tried your bottle overflow trick today and a little water accumulated with normal driving for 30 minutes, so I tried taking it out and get on it a bit, I can tell, I have a blown head gasket! Running like crap and white smoke cloud of epic proportions now.
So my question now is if I don't have the time right now to replace the head gasket myself and don't have the cash to have it done (HVAC just died last week and I just had it replaced, figured heating house more important than having car worked on if I want to remain married! LOL) right now, what should I do right now for it to sit for a while. Change Oil, remove DME relay and plugs, spray some oil in cylinders and turn over 8ish times, reassemble and then leave it alone (don't start) until I fix it?
Thanks again everyone for your help and advice. I figure I might as well do the cam tower gasket and seals (leak somewhere and leaks onto headers and smokes), install my reworked intake and oversized throttle body, and do a turbo upgrade while I am there. With that all said, what is the current suggested head gasket and studs/bolts for street application with a goal of say 18 PSI when done. Keep in mind car has 48,000 original miles, I plan on some performance modifications, but intend not to go overboard (K27-8 turbo) for reliability reasons.
Don't you find it funny how I am suffering from a blown head gasket and other reliability issues and I talk about increasing performance while keeping reliability in mind. Type 'A' Personality, Ohhhh Yaaa!
Shoot, sorry about that. If you let it sit, I'd also put a battery tender on it to preserve the battery (it's not good to let them run down), and add a bottle of Stabil to a full tank of gas to minimize issues when you get back to it. And store it in the garage or under a good cover.
Sometimes that "while you're in there" thing will bog you down more than it's worth. While some of those things will be a little easier while doing the head gasket, there's not "that" much overlap -- other than head studs, of course, but 48k original head studs should be more than enough for what you have in mind. Another way to go would be to get a good old Victor Reinz head gasket set for $125 or so, and just fix the HG asap to keep the car on the road, and then do the turbo and other stuff when time permits. It's not nearly as tough a job as it may sound. See my write-up here:
I agree, fix the head gasket and do the cam tower gaskets (cam tower comes off anyway for a head gasket). The only overlap for the turbo work is pulling the intake manifold which can be done in under an hour. Head gasket shouldn't cost too much if doing the work yourself, biggest expense will probably be any machine work on the head. Have it checked for flatness and milled flat if needed. Valve guides can be done also, but might not be needed at 48k miles.
The only things i would consider doing with the headgasket are timing belt, water pump and front seals...while your in there of course . Not totally necessary, but its not much more work.
If you have any sign of water in your oil, before storing the car i would change the oil and either idle the car a minute or just crank it with the DME relay out until you get oil pressure. This will hopefully give you clean oil on your bearings for any duration the car sits.
Thanks for the advice, timing belt and water pump done at 45,000 miles, so no real bonus on labor there. I will be looking for signs of water in oil, etc. this weekend and try and figure what I want to do at this time. Probably just do head gasket at this time like people are suggesting.
I am looking at replacing my head gasket and it looks like this entails removing timing belt. This is the only thing that has me dragging my feet. Having to retention or at least check head bolts after a duration makes it seem tedious as well.
But not having the tools for changing the timing belt really gives me apprehension. The timing belt was replaced around 3,000 miles ago, so it is a real pain to have to tear it down this far. But will all that said and no mechanics available around here, looks like I will be doing it. My question right now is whether or not the belt tension tool I am about to link is usable on our cars or am I gambling a lot by trusting this tool?
One other question, the head gasket went when it was 105 last summer and the car overheated. I will need to make sure that the fans are working correctly, the coolant is bled, but I also want to verify that if in good working condition the stock radiators have no problem dealing with hot weather?
Thanks, I will look into that. While doing the test that others suggested such as connecting water reservoir bottle and see if there is any oil or sludge in it, and some other things, it finally went big time, if I start it white steam bellows out of the tail pipe, pretty sure it is the head gasket.
I feel stupid letting a car get this hot, in all my old muscle cars and vintage hot rods, it is second nature to watch the temperature gauge and even run the heater in the summer when necessary to keep them cool. I had just never noticed this car getting hot before so when it did it cuaght me off guard and it got very hot. My stupidity, now I pay the price. I will need to make sure the head isn't warped as well......
Anyway, just trying to make sure I have the correct tools to do the job.
I'd be willing to bet the #4 cylinder at the back, nearest to the firewall blew apart on the HG. It's a problematic area on these engines. If it did, I would recommend putting in a LR steam vent kit. It just might prevent you from having to do the HG for a long time.
09-05-2016, 04:30 PM
I won't leave it with water in places it shouldn't be long term.
If you let it sit, I'd also put a battery tender on it to preserve the battery (it's not good to let them run down), and add a bottle of Stabil to a full tank of gas to minimize issues when you get back to it. And store it in the garage or under a good cover. 
. Not totally necessary, but its not much more work.
