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Building a plan here and want to fine tune my suspension.
Track guys that are running Tarret's sways...what have you found to be the ideal adjustment on these bars?
Running-neutral(middle) on front and half way between neutral(middle) and stiff on rear....
I hate to say this but it depends on your driving style and the track. I would set it to neutral as a starting point and then adjust as required. I normally only adjust my rears to get the performance I want, too many options and I get lost. Remember the tighter the rear the more over steer. All around in general tighter settings makes the car handling more skittish so try to go to the lighter side when you can.
Really depends on your setup. I run my front bar full stiff and the rear in the middle but its a spec 944 so our suspension is mandated to be pretty soft (koni yellow coilover / #350 spring, 30mm torsion bars in rear). When making adjustments - like rlm328 I adjust the rear only.
It totally depends on your setup. Make small adjustments, and only one end at a time until you dial in the proper balance for your car and the track. Try to make the adjustments with both wheels on that end on the ground, and adjust the lengths of the end links so there is no binding (you should be able to thread in the last bolt by hand with both wheels loaded).
If you have a handling imbalance it is best to find grip at the affected end if possible. For example, if you are experiencing understeer, it is best to loosen the front bar, which will increase grip at the front end. If you tighten the rear bar instead, the grip at the rear will be decreased because the rate of weight transfer increases at that end; you are effectively making the rear suspension less independent. But, if you run out of adjustment at one end, do what you need to do. However, if that happens, you need to either alter your spring rates or sway bar size . . . . . see, setting up a car is really easy!
All of that said, the Tarett bars are HUGE. I run mine both full soft, with 500# springs in the front and 750# rear.
You do NOT want your setup to become too dependent on the sway bars alone to combat body roll. You will break things (I have had to weld repair and reinforce the section of the frame rail where the center brackets mount on BOTH sides). I also broke a lot of the Tarett center brackets due to the force involved. Years ago my class in POC didn't allow upgraded springs, so I used the sway bars as a band-aid. I actually had problems with the inside rear wheel lifting when coming out of tight turns---luckily I have a LSD!
Now with proper spring rates, the bars work very well and they have really nice geometry and do not bind in the center bushings as they twist like many other bars do.
...You do NOT want your setup to become too dependent on the sway bars alone to combat body roll. You will break things (I have had to weld repair and reinforce the section of the frame rail where the center brackets mount on BOTH sides). I also broke a lot of the Tarett center brackets due to the force involved...
Apologies for the topic tangent but this is scary. Has anyone else experienced these problems?
Ive badly bent brackets even with the triangulated "extra" bracket in place. Dimi944 made a few replacement brackets - I bought two. Going to weld a plate over the second set I have...but something has to give - next will be the frame itself I guess (I have heard of this happening).
Apologies for the topic tangent but this is scary. Has anyone else experienced these problems?
The first time this happened to me, it was actually with the factory L-brackets and a 968 M030 front sway bar. It was a bit scary as it happened while exiting the Riverside turn at Buttonwillow (clockwise) and the tail snapped out at nearly 100 MPH, but luckily I caught it and cruised back to the pits . . . .
I'll find pics of the repairs I did . . . .
Those mounting points aren't designed to take that kind of force. I like the idea of the early, solid billet mounts for the Tarett front bar. I just need someone to make them for me!
But, the current Tarett brackets are OK as long as they don't get tweaked from impact damage or too much load on the bar from body roll/soft springs. Ira sells replacement brackets for $35-40 each IIRC . . . .
Ah ok, I wonder if 968 frame has re-enforced drop link mounting location for bigger sway bars since I've never had a problem (although I did snap an outer drop link once when I still had 968 m030 bars). BTW, I have the old billet Tarett front drop links laying around if you're interested in them. I upgraded to the new steel design.
For posterity's sake, here are some pics of the repairs I have done to the front frame rails (I apologize for the blurriness!).
The first time this happened, the cracking was localized to the area immediately surrounding the threaded inserts for the sway bar center bracket bolts, so my boss made me a pair of reinforcement plates, which were welded into place to help locate the threaded inserts. Years later, the right side frame rail began to crack again, even outside of the point where the reinforcement plate was welded at the rear:
So, I made up another plate to reinforce the entire area, and so far so good after almost 3 years!
Those mounting points aren't designed to take that kind of force. I like the idea of the early, solid billet mounts for the Tarett front bar. I just need someone to make them for me!
I have a pair of these I'm not using. My tub is not straight enough to get them mounted without binding the bar.
08-03-2016, 11:11 AM
Tarret sways-Guidance
