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Another idle problem - I did search first

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Old 06-24-2016, 04:48 PM
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darek_u
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Default Another idle problem - I did search first

I give up, I cannot fix it and it drives me mad. I have too low idle and I cannot get this @#%$$# to run properly. Car id 88 Turbo S, no mods except for Rogue DME, 14.5 PSI KLR chip and 3mm wastegate shim. Rebuild head, rebuild and flow matched injectors. Brand new 2.5 bar Bosch fuel reg, new spark plugs (BPR6ES), NO vacuum leaks past turbo. Custom chip (270 HP).
Car idles too low. I can set it up zylion times and when I remove jumper from test port idle drops from 850 to 790 - 800. With AC on it is even worse - 750 - 770, the whole thing shakes etc. I have the chip modded little to idle with AC on @ 1000 RPM and in general - idle little higher when warming up with target RPM 880 (table is 1600 - 1200 - 880 if memory serves me well). It does not matter, it still idles too low. Sometimes when it starts cold for few seconds it behaves like it is supposed to - idle rises to 1200 - 1250 RPM but then it drops down to 900 ish... rises again for 2 - 3 secs and back down... Car has definitely more vibration than usual, especially with AC on.
What I've done so far: replaced ISV, set up idle 100 times, checked for vacuum leaks 100 times, replaced chip with stock, checked fuel pressure and replaced regulator. Also checked TPS and set it up 2 times (click). I did not mention before but it idles rich. I mean RICH - stock chip with FQS position 2 gives 12.9 - 13.0 AFR with lambda disconnected. The chip I'm using now gives 13.9 - 14.1 with lambda disconnected.
Earlier this summer it was idling better, I mean when AC kicked in it was rising to approx. 1000 RPM, in general it was behaving pretty much like expected. It was still rich but I did not pay too much attention as it behaved pretty good.
I'm lost now, I would suspect DME and ISV drivers but I have Rogue DME... Where to look next???
Old 06-24-2016, 05:36 PM
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darek_u
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I did not mention it but I also replaced DME temp sensor with new one not so long ago.
Old 06-25-2016, 12:02 AM
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Sorry for the frustration.

I'm wondering if running rich is the clue. With your o2 connected, is it correcting to around 14.7? Is that KLR chip stock? Also, it's always worth seeing if you have blink codes after running it (but before shutting it off).
Old 06-25-2016, 03:36 AM
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darek_u
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With O2 connected it is running around stoich but always on a rich side (14.4 - 14.7). The KLR chip is custom made but all it does (I think?) it rises the boost curve to 14.5 PSI. It was made by Josh (Rogue). I have no blink codes. Today I'm going to swap DME with my old one and see if it helps. Other than that - I run out of ideas.
Old 06-25-2016, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by darek_u
With O2 connected it is running around stoich but always on a rich side (14.4 - 14.7). The KLR chip is custom made but all it does (I think?) it rises the boost curve to 14.5 PSI. It was made by Josh (Rogue). I have no blink codes. Today I'm going to swap DME with my old one and see if it helps. Other than that - I run out of ideas.
I would put the stock one back in, if you haven't yet tried.
Old 06-26-2016, 02:55 PM
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darek_u
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I have checked for vacuum leaks again - none. I also triple checked that TPS idle switch is good when engine is hot - it works fine. I replaced DME with known good one with stock chip - idle still hunts badly when cold and it is still rich BUT this time it reacts properly to AC switch - idle rises to approx. 1000 RPM, car does not stumble or shake. I'm making progress here but I don't want to spend rest of the summer chasing ghosts only to have extra 30 HP that this chip gives...
I put my A Tune chip in Rogue DME and placed it in the car - cold start resulted in couple of rev spikes up to 1300 - 1400 RPM but then it settled and warmed up like it is supposed to. Also AC response is pretty good - it stumbles a little when AC kicks in and then recovers and rises to 1000 RPM. I need to try again tomorrow when engine is cold, see if these spikes are there again. I cannot explain them... Idle is still rich, approx. 13.5 with FQS position 2. I was going through WSM looking for something that I may omitted when testing and got across CO level set up. Is it worth of trying? It will affect mainly idle AFRs and this is what I'm looking for. I searched the forum but there is not too much info about enleaning AFRs with CO adjustment screw. Any experience?



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