LBE as boost controller question
10-15-2003, 11:42 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Chas-
I think that once enough pressure has built up behind the boost controller to open it, there is more than enough pressure to open the WG, even if a little bit gets lost through the hole. I think the real function of the bleed hole would be to get rid of the pressure in the line after the boost controller and WG close. Or I could be full of it...
I think that once enough pressure has built up behind the boost controller to open it, there is more than enough pressure to open the WG, even if a little bit gets lost through the hole. I think the real function of the bleed hole would be to get rid of the pressure in the line after the boost controller and WG close. Or I could be full of it...
10-15-2003, 11:48 AM
#17
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I got my spring from a local used fix it or do it your self type of store. It was like 50 cents. Holds closed longer to alow quicker spool and am seeing the same 15 psi with 5 or 6 more turns still left on reliaboost.
The spring that is in the reliaboost now is about as big as a spring in a ball point pen.
The spring that is in the reliaboost now is about as big as a spring in a ball point pen.
10-15-2003, 12:14 PM
#18
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Originally posted by Duke
I assume the hole is at the end that connects to the "turbo to IC"-pipe?
I assume the hole is at the end that connects to the "turbo to IC"-pipe?
10-15-2003, 01:10 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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I'd like to try and to get as accurate as possible when drilling this hole. Does anybody know the diameter of the hose barb or knurled nut so I can calculate the correct hole size using Sami's picture? Thanks.
10-15-2003, 01:38 PM
#20
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Originally posted by Ben Z.
I'd like to try and to get as accurate as possible when drilling this hole. Does anybody know the diameter of the hose barb or knurled nut so I can calculate the correct hole size using Sami's picture? Thanks.
I'd like to try and to get as accurate as possible when drilling this hole. Does anybody know the diameter of the hose barb or knurled nut so I can calculate the correct hole size using Sami's picture? Thanks.
Last edited by Sami951; 07-30-2012 at 03:26 AM.
10-15-2003, 01:41 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
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I did a quick calculation assuming the lock-nut uses a 5/8" wrench (found installation instructions for reliaboost). This means that the hole is around 0.55 mm diameter. Does this seem right to everybody? Maybe somebody could do a quick check with a mechanical pencil lead? Sorry for the constant quesions, I really appreciate your help.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
10-15-2003, 01:48 PM
#22
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Ok, disregard previous post, I was too slow in typing it. Looks like .7mm should be about right. Sami- you didn't have to go to all of this trouble, but I really appreciate it!!
10-15-2003, 01:55 PM
#23
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And here we have a 0.7mm pencil in the hole 
There's a very small amount of play, so just get the nearest size that's just above 0.7mm ...
I just have no life, and all these funny objects laying here on my desk...
There's a very small amount of play, so just get the nearest size that's just above 0.7mm ...I just have no life, and all these funny objects laying here on my desk...
Last edited by Sami951; 07-30-2012 at 03:26 AM.
10-15-2003, 03:36 PM
#26
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Chas - the cheapest one I could find, my only criteria was that it had to have some optical zoom built in (this one has 3x). Minolta DiMage E223, 2mpixels, takes decent (in my amateur sense, I am not a photographer) 800x600 pics but anything above that you can just forget straight away. See, it's not always necessary to have high end equipment 
10-15-2003, 03:41 PM
#27
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Originally posted by Sami951
If I'm not looking at this thing entirely wrong, it's in fact in the other end, ie. towards the wastegate.
If I'm not looking at this thing entirely wrong, it's in fact in the other end, ie. towards the wastegate.
Also, when you remove the stock Cycling valve dont be surprised
if you have to adj the reliaboost / LBE to get your boost back up.
I had to adj mine quite a bit.
10-15-2003, 04:03 PM
#29
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Originally posted by Ben Z.
Chas-
I think that once enough pressure has built up behind the boost controller to open it, there is more than enough pressure to open the WG, even if a little bit gets lost through the hole. I think the real function of the bleed hole would be to get rid of the pressure in the line after the boost controller and WG close. Or I could be full of it...
Chas-
I think that once enough pressure has built up behind the boost controller to open it, there is more than enough pressure to open the WG, even if a little bit gets lost through the hole. I think the real function of the bleed hole would be to get rid of the pressure in the line after the boost controller and WG close. Or I could be full of it...
