PorscheFanatic202

Where in the 924/944/944 Turbo Supplement or any TSB does it say what threadlocker/sealant to use on the factory head studs when installing them?

I have a few questions about installing them. Some say use green threadlocker others say teflon and some say to use the factory loctite ###. Next, if using a threadlocker what is the procedure for putting the studs in? (ie. is it okay to install them with threadlocker and let them sit or do you install them and immediately torque the head down?)

I'm sorry if this is a noob question, but i've looked long and hard for the factory procedure in lots of places. I almost installed them using permatex red, then I had a moment of pause before I did something nearly irreversible.

rlm328

According to the Porsche Manual Vol 1 section 15-10, you should only use engine oil.

Voith

I will use soft thread sealant. If I remember correctly, factory suggest certain type of loctite and immediately fasten head so the loctite cures on tightened threads.

Tom M'Guinn

I'm not sure there is anything published by Porsche that says what they use to hold the studs in place -- maybe there is something I haven't seen though. I know all the factory studs I've removed had what looked like red locktite, and they seemed strongly glued in place. What studs are you installing? If Raceware, they recommend Teflon sealant from the hardware store, solely to keep the studs from spinning when you torque the nuts on top. If factory studs, I'd probably just use a few small dots of blue Loctite for the same reason -- in either case set about 72mm above the deck. Using large amounts of red Loctite, like the factory seemed to do, just seems more problematic (when it comes time to replace them) than useful. As a practical matter, you'd never get the head on and torqued before Loctite sets up, so I wouldn't worry about how long they sit before you torque the head on.

Tom M'Guinn

I think that's for the nuts on top, rather than the threads in the block (which I understood to be the question).

Tom M'Guinn

If you can point to something Porsche published that says that, for a 944/951, I'd be interested. If it's the same glue they used at the factory, I wouldn't do it personally...

URG8RB8

A famous "high end" engine builder down in LA recommended to me extreme pressure grease, not Loktite. Take it for what it is worth.

michaelmount123

Any Loctite on the studs in the block is a no-no unless the head is installed and the nuts (with engine oil) torqued immediately. This is stated in Loctite literature. The issue is avoiding pulling torque against hardened Loctite rather than the threaded joint. I also use High Pressure Lube when installing all studs. It's thick enough to resist the stud turning when the nut is torqued and provides for easy removal when necessary. Also use it on spark plug threads, sparingly, and without fouling the electrode or ground strap.

PorscheFanatic202

Glad I didn't put the studs in. No factory literature reaffirms to me that it is purely technique on how to make the stud/washer not spin while torquing, unless this is a thing they teach the Porsche technicians at their school and is understood as common head stud knowledge. Thanks for the replies! Again, the community comes to the rescue.

URG8RB8

Michael, Neil recommended a special grease from Grainger that I have never heard of but I am sure it is very high quality stuff. However, I was going to use Redline CV-2 as I have plenty of it on hand and never had any issues with it. Do you see any issues with using the Redline?

michaelmount123

I'm not familiar with the Redline CV-2. Google tells me its got the technical properties, but I'll bet it's not as thick as the Extreme Pressure Lube and may not resist the head stud spinning as well. The lube I use is readily available:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dart/301/LUBE/...FUJkhgodudsN-A

Cory9584

No Loctite, I think I just used thread lube.

fejjj

Using the ARP moly lube with ARP studs.

URG8RB8

Thank You, Michael!!! Great minds think alike, same one Neil suggested, I will purchase this, thanks again.

m42racer

Also, the studs do not want to be bottomed out in the bores. They need to "turn" when tightened. When tightening, they should be tightened by angle not torque. Angle removes the friction variable from the stretch. I have seen where the studs are left to allow settlement between sequences. Always use a single sweeping motion and not jerks when tightening.