sfr short shifter
10-10-2003, 02:37 AM
#2
Race Director
Dont bother. Make one yourself! Just make one yourself, its just a factory one cut down and a insert welded in... I did and it costed $7.50. Works great.
10-10-2003, 03:20 AM
#4
Race Director
Its quite simple really. Take off your existing one. Which has a rectangular shaped shaft and then weld on a couple of inserts to fit on a momo or other similar ****. I went for the carbon momo. I will post a pick when I get the chance... You could go to any garage that has a welder to do this job.
10-10-2003, 04:22 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
the best upgrade for the interior!take out the shaft,cut and weld (u want like 1-2" of round rod)and then u can put whatever know you want,no need to buy one thats $100.pz
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10-10-2003, 11:46 AM
#8
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Kenny, you got it - both of my "short shifters" are stock shifters I cut and then ground to match the original end - I didn't even weld on a round rod as I wanted to use the stock **** with them. Only takes a few min.
Sam
Sam
10-10-2003, 01:21 PM
#11
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If you want to use stock ****, you gotta figure out a way to keep it on there after cutting, as the original locking spring won't work any more. I just rely on the friction from the rubber bushings for mine - I cut off the metal lower locking "collar" of the stock **** for the extra inch or 2 lower, and then just hold it against the shaft to see how much I can cut before it'll hit the curved part of the shaft.
Sam
Sam
10-10-2003, 08:39 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Is this really a "short shift" after the cut? In other words, even if it shortens the distance of the throwof the lever from gear to gear, you don't really shorten the time for those clunky rear grears to engage, right??
Anyone ever end up just waiting in neutral?
TIA
Anyone ever end up just waiting in neutral?
TIA
10-10-2003, 10:11 PM
#13
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I'm not sure what you're asking? Whether you put the reduction in the rear or in the front of the linkage, the result is the same, less physical movement of the lever for the same movement in the tranny.
Sam
Sam
10-10-2003, 11:31 PM
#15
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Originally posted by Sam Lin
If you want to use stock ****, you gotta figure out a way to keep it on there after cutting, as the original locking spring won't work any more. I just rely on the friction from the rubber bushings for mine - I cut off the metal lower locking "collar" of the stock **** for the extra inch or 2 lower, and then just hold it against the shaft to see how much I can cut before it'll hit the curved part of the shaft.
If you want to use stock ****, you gotta figure out a way to keep it on there after cutting, as the original locking spring won't work any more. I just rely on the friction from the rubber bushings for mine - I cut off the metal lower locking "collar" of the stock **** for the extra inch or 2 lower, and then just hold it against the shaft to see how much I can cut before it'll hit the curved part of the shaft.