sfr short shifter
10-11-2003, 11:58 AM
#16
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Hey Rob, if you ever have it out of your car, I'd be interested in seeing pics of yours - I did grind the notches in the tip to hold the rubber bushing after I cut, but I cut the expanded lower metal portion of the **** completely off for that extra little bit of height reduction - I'd like to see how yours looks retaining the metal clip.
Sam
Sam
10-11-2003, 05:43 PM
#17
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Sam,
I try my question a different way (I WANT to do it if it helps!):
I am kind of a newb!
If you shorten the shifter travel, by shortening it, does it really make the gears engage quiker , ie, the shifts any quicker? I appreciate any help w/this.
See, a friend/mechanic thinks that a short shift mod on a 951 is a waste because the gears will only engage as fast as stock anyway. He thinks you would end up with less wrist movement yes, but the speed in which you can actually get power to the next gear (release clutch), won't be aby quicker. you still have to let the gear engage at its' own natural pace.
hope I make sense. I want to do it but not if I end up short waiting in neutral betwenn gear changes.
I try my question a different way (I WANT to do it if it helps!):
I am kind of a newb!
If you shorten the shifter travel, by shortening it, does it really make the gears engage quiker , ie, the shifts any quicker? I appreciate any help w/this.
See, a friend/mechanic thinks that a short shift mod on a 951 is a waste because the gears will only engage as fast as stock anyway. He thinks you would end up with less wrist movement yes, but the speed in which you can actually get power to the next gear (release clutch), won't be aby quicker. you still have to let the gear engage at its' own natural pace.
hope I make sense. I want to do it but not if I end up short waiting in neutral betwenn gear changes.
10-11-2003, 06:02 PM
#18
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Sam,
If I remember correctly, I did leave about 1/4" of the expanded **** section on and then cut the groove and notches to match the original clip configuration. If I get a chance this weekend I'll snap a picture.
If I remember correctly, I did leave about 1/4" of the expanded **** section on and then cut the groove and notches to match the original clip configuration. If I get a chance this weekend I'll snap a picture.
10-11-2003, 09:10 PM
#20
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The distance inside the tranny to get from gear to gear does not change, short of a new tranny (on any car), there's no way to decrease that distance. By your friend's logic, no short shifter would work on any car.
What this does, like any short shifter, is reduce hand movement for a given amount of tranny shift linkage movement. So, if you move your hand at 4" per second to shift and the stock shift distance is 4" lever movement, and we reduce shift distance to 2", yet you still move your hand at the same speed, we just cut shift time in half.
Sam
What this does, like any short shifter, is reduce hand movement for a given amount of tranny shift linkage movement. So, if you move your hand at 4" per second to shift and the stock shift distance is 4" lever movement, and we reduce shift distance to 2", yet you still move your hand at the same speed, we just cut shift time in half.
Sam
10-11-2003, 09:21 PM
#21
Or you could just grap on to the shift lever a couple of inches down from the top, and save yourself a bit of work... lol
The only way to really install a "short shifter" on our cars is at the tranny linkage mount at the rear of the car. While I agree that the throw is shorter with the mod at the shifter inside the car, its not nearly as effective.
Regards,
The only way to really install a "short shifter" on our cars is at the tranny linkage mount at the rear of the car. While I agree that the throw is shorter with the mod at the shifter inside the car, its not nearly as effective.
Regards,
10-11-2003, 10:24 PM
#22
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Doing the lever reduction at the rear of the car is no different than doing it at the front, the result is still a reduction in shift lever movement in relation to tranny internal movement. I've got one of both, this winter I plan to try them together.
Sam
Sam
10-11-2003, 11:01 PM
#23
Drifting
Actually, there is a difference - in the distance of the **** from the wheel, which is important if you drive around withOUT resting your hand on the **** all the time.
Cutting down the stock lever to quicken shifts for performance driving is kind of counter-productive...
I run the Autthority-Weltmeister-whatever style reduction in the back, plus I got David J. harrington to make a billet lever for me that is threaded for adjustment both above and below the pin. Essentially, I raise the height of the pin to "fine tune" the reduction in throw. Incidentally, I run the linkage at the rear at the longer setting - I really feel that the shorter setting is actually too short for a fast shift (due to resistance of the synchro). I use the Harrington lever to find a reduction range somewhere between the two available settings at the rear linkage.
Aside from that, I run a DST link (968-style) to replace that rubber grommeted THING that Audi put in there to act as a pivot anchor. The DST piece has metal ball sockets. I've actually removed practically all the plastic from the entire shift linage - lever to selector shadt on the transaxle.
Feels good!
Cutting down the stock lever to quicken shifts for performance driving is kind of counter-productive...
I run the Autthority-Weltmeister-whatever style reduction in the back, plus I got David J. harrington to make a billet lever for me that is threaded for adjustment both above and below the pin. Essentially, I raise the height of the pin to "fine tune" the reduction in throw. Incidentally, I run the linkage at the rear at the longer setting - I really feel that the shorter setting is actually too short for a fast shift (due to resistance of the synchro). I use the Harrington lever to find a reduction range somewhere between the two available settings at the rear linkage.
Aside from that, I run a DST link (968-style) to replace that rubber grommeted THING that Audi put in there to act as a pivot anchor. The DST piece has metal ball sockets. I've actually removed practically all the plastic from the entire shift linage - lever to selector shadt on the transaxle.
Feels good!
10-12-2003, 10:29 AM
#26
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One thing missing from this conversation is that if you have a "loose" shifter cutting it down won't help this. The attachment portion of your shifter gets tapered with usage. The SFR shifter doesn't have this worn out portion and thus greatly reduced the slop as would a new Porsche unit. Obviously after I use the SFR for 17 years it will wear down also.
I typically ride with my hand on the shifter and the shortened **** seems more intuitive for my situation.
I typically ride with my hand on the shifter and the shortened **** seems more intuitive for my situation.
10-13-2003, 02:24 AM
#28
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Hey, thanks Rob - that's a good idea for keeping the shifter solidly on there!
Mine I cut the expanded lower metal section of the **** totally off and the remaining metal fits down to the curve in the lever, so my shortened shifter looks to be nearly 2" shorter than yours, but I have no positive **** lock, only the friction of the rubber bushings, which I lightly ground to fit.
Sam
Mine I cut the expanded lower metal section of the **** totally off and the remaining metal fits down to the curve in the lever, so my shortened shifter looks to be nearly 2" shorter than yours, but I have no positive **** lock, only the friction of the rubber bushings, which I lightly ground to fit.
Sam
