New purchase...how'd I do?
09-30-2003, 01:26 AM
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Originally posted by Brian McCoy
Pass the hanky? Because another 951 is being brought back from the grave (although with a heart transplant). Do you write obituaries and burry people who get hear transplants? Nope, you enjoy them a little more because they've survived one of the most life-threatening physical ordeals..
Pass the hanky? Because another 951 is being brought back from the grave (although with a heart transplant). Do you write obituaries and burry people who get hear transplants? Nope, you enjoy them a little more because they've survived one of the most life-threatening physical ordeals..
09-30-2003, 01:51 AM
#18
Re: Re: Re: New purchase...how'd I do?
Originally posted by dmsog
....I don't believe I've ever seen the rubber bushings go bad, usually the gear just explodes. I'll look tomorrow and see if I have some, and if not, if I can get them. To solder the brushes I use a 200 amp resistance unit with a carbon tip on it (I could blow a hole right through it if I wanted to). It takes quite a bit of heat to get this done right.
Doug
....I don't believe I've ever seen the rubber bushings go bad, usually the gear just explodes. I'll look tomorrow and see if I have some, and if not, if I can get them. To solder the brushes I use a 200 amp resistance unit with a carbon tip on it (I could blow a hole right through it if I wanted to). It takes quite a bit of heat to get this done right.
Doug
Please forgive me in advance if I have the terminology wrong in my description below.
What I have seen is that the starter fails since the brush material has nowhere to go, it combines with excess grease in the starter case, which makes a paste, goops all over everything, and eventually shorts out the commutator.
Here is a picture of the bendix assembly. You can see the rubber bushing (circled). It has a hole in the center (so it is kind of shaped like a rectangle). The metal tab of the outer gear ring protrudes into this hole in the center of the bushing. You can see that this one is split on the bottom. The bushing prevents the metal tab from crashing into the plastic housing when the starter is engaged.
I would be interested in purchasing a few brush sets (maybe a total of 8/12 brushes) and the rubber bushings to match (maybe 2-3 sets of three). I am sure that these kits would be popular for rennlisters. If you can get the brushes and bushings, please let me know what the pricing would be.
I also have some additional questions:
1. I used brake caliper grease on the shaft on the commutator, the gearset, and the shaft that protrudes from the front of the bendix assembly, as a grease that would not degrade or "melt" under high temperature conditions. Do you have a favorite grease you like to use for this?
2. I have several solenoids that I used (and removed) because the piston would tend to "bind" in the solenoid housing. In one case, it was because the rebuilder painted the piston, making it a little too wide for the housing. In another case, it seemed that some dirt/debris caused the binding. What would you recommend to clean the solenoid and housing? Also, is there a lightweight grease that is safe to use on the solenoid piston that would act to prevent the binding?
Thanks very much for your assistance, knowledge, and feedback!
Regards,
Kevin
Last edited by 89magic98; 09-30-2003 at 09:30 AM.
09-30-2003, 02:22 AM
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Originally posted by bloodraven
i got my 86 turbo in perfect running condition for $3500 US....so, I don't know about that price...but I would LOVE to see the outcome...
i got my 86 turbo in perfect running condition for $3500 US....so, I don't know about that price...but I would LOVE to see the outcome...
09-30-2003, 06:03 AM
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now if only porsche made a v8!
I was just reading somewhere about the 928 s4 and it's land-speed records and other accomplishments, they are still really balanced 54 - 46 I think, damn that's good
I was just reading somewhere about the 928 s4 and it's land-speed records and other accomplishments, they are still really balanced 54 - 46 I think, damn that's good
09-30-2003, 10:03 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: New purchase...how'd I do?
Originally posted by 89magic98
Doug,
Please forgive me in advance if I have the terminology wrong in my description below.
What I have seen is that the starter fails since the brush material has nowhere to go, it combines with excess grease in the starter case, which makes a paste, goops all over everything, and eventually shorts out the commutator.
There should be no excess grease in the motor itself unless too much grease was used previously, or there's an oil leak into the motor part of the starter. What generally happens is a small quantity of oil gets into the motor and wets the brushes, turning them to mush.
I would be interested in purchasing a few brush sets (maybe a total of 8/12 brushes) and the rubber bushings to match (maybe 2-3 sets of three). I am sure that these kits would be popular for rennlisters. If you can get the brushes and bushings, please let me know what the pricing would be.
I don't have the rubbers pieces in stock, but I can easily get them. They are 1.25 each. Positive side brushes I can sell you complete (no soldering to do; includes the holder and the terminal out to the solenoid) 7.20 each. Negative brushes (unavailable w/holder; you have to solder) 1.90 each.
I also have some additional questions:
1. I used brake caliper grease on the shaft on the commutator, the gearset, and the shaft that protrudes from the front of the bendix assembly, as a grease that would not degrade or "melt" under high temperature conditions. Do you have a favorite grease you like to use for this?
Yes, I do. It's a clear synthetic called Superlube and contains Teflon. I don't know where to but it other than from my supplier. It's made by a company called Synco Chemical in Bohemia, NY. I use it on every area of these starters that requires grease.
2. I have several solenoids that I used (and removed) because the piston would tend to "bind" in the solenoid housing. In one case, it was because the rebuilder painted the piston, making it a little too wide for the housing. In another case, it seemed that some dirt/debris caused the binding. What would you recommend to clean the solenoid and housing? Also, is there a lightweight grease that is safe to use on the solenoid piston that would act to prevent the binding?
I use the above grease (applied extremely sparingly) on the piston. If I see wear, I replace the solenoid.
Thanks very much for your assistance, knowledge, and feedback!
Regards,
Kevin
Doug,
Please forgive me in advance if I have the terminology wrong in my description below.
What I have seen is that the starter fails since the brush material has nowhere to go, it combines with excess grease in the starter case, which makes a paste, goops all over everything, and eventually shorts out the commutator.
There should be no excess grease in the motor itself unless too much grease was used previously, or there's an oil leak into the motor part of the starter. What generally happens is a small quantity of oil gets into the motor and wets the brushes, turning them to mush.
I would be interested in purchasing a few brush sets (maybe a total of 8/12 brushes) and the rubber bushings to match (maybe 2-3 sets of three). I am sure that these kits would be popular for rennlisters. If you can get the brushes and bushings, please let me know what the pricing would be.
I don't have the rubbers pieces in stock, but I can easily get them. They are 1.25 each. Positive side brushes I can sell you complete (no soldering to do; includes the holder and the terminal out to the solenoid) 7.20 each. Negative brushes (unavailable w/holder; you have to solder) 1.90 each.
I also have some additional questions:
1. I used brake caliper grease on the shaft on the commutator, the gearset, and the shaft that protrudes from the front of the bendix assembly, as a grease that would not degrade or "melt" under high temperature conditions. Do you have a favorite grease you like to use for this?
Yes, I do. It's a clear synthetic called Superlube and contains Teflon. I don't know where to but it other than from my supplier. It's made by a company called Synco Chemical in Bohemia, NY. I use it on every area of these starters that requires grease.
2. I have several solenoids that I used (and removed) because the piston would tend to "bind" in the solenoid housing. In one case, it was because the rebuilder painted the piston, making it a little too wide for the housing. In another case, it seemed that some dirt/debris caused the binding. What would you recommend to clean the solenoid and housing? Also, is there a lightweight grease that is safe to use on the solenoid piston that would act to prevent the binding?
I use the above grease (applied extremely sparingly) on the piston. If I see wear, I replace the solenoid.
Thanks very much for your assistance, knowledge, and feedback!
Regards,
Kevin
09-30-2003, 10:16 AM
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Now the comment about not giving a damn about handling - you need to get some priorities man!! ANYONE can hold the gas down in a straight line, but it takes a speakial car (and driver) to get arround the corners well.
...you don't say! For the record, I also own a '37 Ford Legends car, a 1200 Yamaha-powered 5/8 scale coval track car. which has won 7 times in 14 starts this season. The car has also finished second four times, for a top-two ratio of 79%. I've raced this car at Lime Rock and achieved a trap speed at the end of the long straight of 98mph. I know a little bit about going around corners. <g>
The Legends car is being sold to finance this 951 project. It's a sad time and a happy time all at the same time.
Doug
ANYONE can hold the gas down in a straight line, but it takes a speakial car (and driver) to get arround the corners well. ...you don't say! For the record, I also own a '37 Ford Legends car, a 1200 Yamaha-powered 5/8 scale coval track car. which has won 7 times in 14 starts this season. The car has also finished second four times, for a top-two ratio of 79%. I've raced this car at Lime Rock and achieved a trap speed at the end of the long straight of 98mph. I know a little bit about going around corners. <g>
The Legends car is being sold to finance this 951 project. It's a sad time and a happy time all at the same time.
Doug
09-30-2003, 10:23 AM
#23
Doug,
I found the Super Lube online - individual customers can order tubes through their web site direct from the manufacturer.
So, just to be 100% sure for $7.20 plus $3.80, you can get a brush holder that looks like the attached picture, (including the cable to solenoid) and I would have to just solder on the two included negative brushes. The negative brushes were pretty easy to solder. I had a hard time with the positive side. So this would be really great.
If so, I will send you a PM with what I would like to order, and to ask you for how I can send you payment.
The picture includes another shot of what one of the rubber pieces look like.
Thanks very much for your assistance!
Kevin
I found the Super Lube online - individual customers can order tubes through their web site direct from the manufacturer.
So, just to be 100% sure for $7.20 plus $3.80, you can get a brush holder that looks like the attached picture, (including the cable to solenoid) and I would have to just solder on the two included negative brushes. The negative brushes were pretty easy to solder. I had a hard time with the positive side. So this would be really great.
If so, I will send you a PM with what I would like to order, and to ask you for how I can send you payment.
The picture includes another shot of what one of the rubber pieces look like.
Thanks very much for your assistance!
Kevin
09-30-2003, 10:56 AM
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Originally posted by 89magic98
Doug,
I found the Super Lube online - individual customers can order tubes through their web site direct from the manufacturer.
So, just to be 100% sure for $7.20 plus $3.80, you can get a brush holder that looks like the attached picture, (including the cable to solenoid) and I would have to just solder on the two included negative brushes. The negative brushes were pretty easy to solder. I had a hard time with the positive side. So this would be really great.
No, I screwed up...there's an early and a late brush holder. The easiest thing to do would be to buy a complete brushholder, which will cost 21.20 and includes the holders and the springs. Absolutely no soldering.
If so, I will send you a PM with what I would like to order, and to ask you for how I can send you payment.
The picture includes another shot of what one of the rubber pieces look like.
Thanks very much for your assistance!
Kevin
Doug,
I found the Super Lube online - individual customers can order tubes through their web site direct from the manufacturer.
So, just to be 100% sure for $7.20 plus $3.80, you can get a brush holder that looks like the attached picture, (including the cable to solenoid) and I would have to just solder on the two included negative brushes. The negative brushes were pretty easy to solder. I had a hard time with the positive side. So this would be really great.
No, I screwed up...there's an early and a late brush holder. The easiest thing to do would be to buy a complete brushholder, which will cost 21.20 and includes the holders and the springs. Absolutely no soldering.
If so, I will send you a PM with what I would like to order, and to ask you for how I can send you payment.
The picture includes another shot of what one of the rubber pieces look like.
Thanks very much for your assistance!
Kevin
09-30-2003, 11:20 AM
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I put a V8 in a 280Z once. Had a lot of fun doing the conversion and ended up with a wickedly fast 280Z which was waaaay down on braking ability.
Have fun with the conversion.
Alan C.
Have fun with the conversion.
Alan C.
09-30-2003, 12:01 PM
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Originally posted by Brian McCoy
If that's true (and it's in as good of shape as Dougs), that that would be the BEST deal I've ever heard of. Toss up some pics and info, let us take a look at this $3500 wonder....
If that's true (and it's in as good of shape as Dougs), that that would be the BEST deal I've ever heard of. Toss up some pics and info, let us take a look at this $3500 wonder....
My car
Now, I am not saying my car is the BEST out there.....it has been repainted....and they conviently forgot to paint the engine bay and parts of the hatch, and the air conditioning doesn't work, neither does the clock, drivers seat is tore a little on the edge, sound sucks, and the engine is very dirty....but it does run really well...and the cruise control still works!!
and anyway, i guess this guy still got a good deal according to everyone here...and I am very happy that he got such a beautiful car.
09-30-2003, 12:24 PM
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No sarcasim at all.. just awe/disbelief that someone would sell a running 951 for less than $5k or so. Did you get any records with the car ~ like how old the timing belt/water pump are? Looks like one HELL of a buy though, looks like at least a $7k car depending on the mechanics of the car...
Doug - I know Legends all too well ~ I was cornerworking a motorcycle event at one of the first east-coast runnings of the cars. Sounds like you're going to have one hell of a DE/AutoX car on your hands.
Doug - I know Legends all too well ~ I was cornerworking a motorcycle event at one of the first east-coast runnings of the cars. Sounds like you're going to have one hell of a DE/AutoX car on your hands.
09-30-2003, 12:25 PM
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Re: New purchase...how'd I do?
Originally posted by dmsog
In this post I'd like to know if you folks think I did OK on this car. I paid 2500.00. (The owner wanted 3,000.00)
In this post I'd like to know if you folks think I did OK on this car. I paid 2500.00. (The owner wanted 3,000.00)
09-30-2003, 01:13 PM
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Originally posted by Brian McCoy
No sarcasim at all.. just awe/disbelief that someone would sell a running 951 for less than $5k or so. Did you get any records with the car ~ like how old the timing belt/water pump are? Looks like one HELL of a buy though, looks like at least a $7k car depending on the mechanics of the car...
No sarcasim at all.. just awe/disbelief that someone would sell a running 951 for less than $5k or so. Did you get any records with the car ~ like how old the timing belt/water pump are? Looks like one HELL of a buy though, looks like at least a $7k car depending on the mechanics of the car...