LR M-Tune
12-22-2015, 04:32 AM
#46
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I took his response as "thanks for everyone's help" (so far).
12-22-2015, 05:00 AM
#47
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I regret the language problem .
I do not know what to do. the engine , very rich.
everything is checked , a thousand times .
very very rich. when the turbo gives precione , 10.0 AFR .
driving slowly 12.0 and 12.5 .
I do not know what to do. the engine , very rich.
everything is checked , a thousand times .
very very rich. when the turbo gives precione , 10.0 AFR .
driving slowly 12.0 and 12.5 .
12-22-2015, 05:34 AM
#48
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What FQS position are you on?
What is the plug here:
12-23-2015, 03:06 AM
#51
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35 psi tests.
the car feels with more power. roll motor seems freer. AFR- slow conducion 12.0 and 13.5. Fast driving 11.0 and then 10.0.
I do not know what to do. maybe reassemble the old afm.
I have no other way to get chips.
the car feels with more power. roll motor seems freer. AFR- slow conducion 12.0 and 13.5. Fast driving 11.0 and then 10.0.
I do not know what to do. maybe reassemble the old afm.
I have no other way to get chips.
12-23-2015, 06:52 AM
#52
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I think more people with the same problem, very rich. They have a solution ?? which it is the solution working. especially in the engine it is new. everything is checked often. try 35psi, FQS-11%, continuous rich.
at 35 psi, when sudden brake, the engine no longer stops. please someone can help.
at 35 psi, when sudden brake, the engine no longer stops. please someone can help.
12-23-2015, 07:11 AM
#53
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Can you post a picture of the engine compartment setup of the MAF kit? Are you sure the MAF pipe is not reversed?
Also, can you confirm how you set the FQS? Counterclockwise is to set all the way to 0 position, clockwise adjustments to set to add or remove fuel. Is this how you set the minus 11? Also, on Rogues chart, what FQS position was used?
Last, did you install yourself or did a shop install?
Also, can you confirm how you set the FQS? Counterclockwise is to set all the way to 0 position, clockwise adjustments to set to add or remove fuel. Is this how you set the minus 11? Also, on Rogues chart, what FQS position was used?
Last, did you install yourself or did a shop install?
12-23-2015, 10:42 PM
#57
Your problems are all related to this. (vacuum leak, stuck ISV, bad/incorrect coolant temp circuit, idle bypass set to high, etc)
The DME is programmed to expect a certain amount of air to enter the engine when the throttle-plate is closed (leakage). Both the factory software and mine use this method.
This is why we set the idle-speed to 850 - by disabling the DME ISV control, we are establishing the correct amount of leakage. If you set the idle speed to 1100, then much more air is entering the motor than expected, which will throw every ISV-related response off... You could think of it similar to setting timing on a older distributor Chevy/Ford. If you don't get the base-timing right, then the whole curve is affected.
The DME is programmed to expect a certain amount of air to enter the engine when the throttle-plate is closed (leakage). Both the factory software and mine use this method.
This is why we set the idle-speed to 850 - by disabling the DME ISV control, we are establishing the correct amount of leakage. If you set the idle speed to 1100, then much more air is entering the motor than expected, which will throw every ISV-related response off... You could think of it similar to setting timing on a older distributor Chevy/Ford. If you don't get the base-timing right, then the whole curve is affected.
I have been having similar issues mine will start up and go to 3k then slowly come down as it warms up then it is fine. once in closed loop it wants to lean out at idle. I unplugged the oxy sensor that brought the A/F down to a steady 14 and idle and goes to 12 on boost. I have taken out the ISV and set the idle once warm and the car starts fine with a idle around 800RPM and comes up to 1000RPM when warm. haven't had a chance to test drive the car this way but if it works out I'll be okay with as the car is not a daily driver. what are your thoughts? also have had a chance to look at the logs I sent you? they are baffling me I am down to the DME and or wiring. I have rebuilt my harness but thinking it could still be an issue. I attached the logs and welcome any comments. the car runs great and if I didn't have the logger I wouldn't suspect a problem.
12-24-2015, 02:03 AM
#58
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You can mail me the chipboard - I'll inspect it.
http://www.roguetuning.com/contact_us
You can take out the ISV if you want. The car will be more likely to die on high-load -> drop-throttle situations, and cold-idle will suffer.
I just took a look at the log... It appears your running about 21psi of boost, falling to about 20psi by redline. The car looks at least full point too lean... probably closer to 2 points. What fuel are you running?
Side-note people - if you send me a log, tell me what it is I'm looking at. The logging software/setup, the WBO2 you are using, time-marker in the log, etc. I cannot possibly remember everyone's setup, and it eats a ton of my time just trying to figure it out.
http://www.roguetuning.com/contact_us
I just took a look at the log... It appears your running about 21psi of boost, falling to about 20psi by redline. The car looks at least full point too lean... probably closer to 2 points. What fuel are you running?
Side-note people - if you send me a log, tell me what it is I'm looking at. The logging software/setup, the WBO2 you are using, time-marker in the log, etc. I cannot possibly remember everyone's setup, and it eats a ton of my time just trying to figure it out.
12-24-2015, 03:03 AM
#59
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Hi.
I have not the old afm.
If I send the chipboard for you I have no car. I think as usual, Is That You send a replacement, And Then I send this.
That I think is the right thing, I Buy this new and never work well.
you send chipboard. a replacement think is best.
I have to pay shipping.
it seems that I am the ugly of the film.
I have not the old afm.
If I send the chipboard for you I have no car. I think as usual, Is That You send a replacement, And Then I send this.
That I think is the right thing, I Buy this new and never work well.
you send chipboard. a replacement think is best.
I have to pay shipping.
it seems that I am the ugly of the film.
12-24-2015, 03:19 AM
#60
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Hi.
I have not the old afm.
If I send the chipboard for you I have no car. I think as usual, Is That You send a replacement, And Then I send this.
That I think is the right thing, I Buy this new and never work well.
you send chipboard. a replacement think is best.
I have to pay shipping.
it seems that I am the ugly of the film.
I have not the old afm.
If I send the chipboard for you I have no car. I think as usual, Is That You send a replacement, And Then I send this.
That I think is the right thing, I Buy this new and never work well.
you send chipboard. a replacement think is best.
I have to pay shipping.
it seems that I am the ugly of the film.
What I do know is that the chipboard was checked before sending to LR. Additionally, I know that it is at least working electronically, by the fact that the car is running with it.
If you want a new chipboard before sending your back, then you will need to coordinate that with Lindsey Racing.
The other thing I could do is send you a new maps chip (the 28pin removable chip on the chipboard) that is programmed for Tune #1. (in-case you received the wrong Tune from LR)