Replacing wiring harness - hard boost line?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey all,
Since I'm rebuilding the wiring harness on my car, I figured I would replace some of this ancient plastic vacuum/boost line running to the KLR. I figure old plastic is eventually going to crack and fail.
It's not something I've seen around though. I have plenty of the silicone flexible rubber vacuum lines.
Anyone know a good replacement for this hard line stuff? I'm not even sure what to call it.
Since I'm rebuilding the wiring harness on my car, I figured I would replace some of this ancient plastic vacuum/boost line running to the KLR. I figure old plastic is eventually going to crack and fail.
It's not something I've seen around though. I have plenty of the silicone flexible rubber vacuum lines.
Anyone know a good replacement for this hard line stuff? I'm not even sure what to call it.
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think you can still get them new with part number 944.618.810.00
Though I'm sure any tight fitting non-pinched hose could be made to suffice.
There is a place in Belmont, CA called Global Metric. It's a small local place that sells metric fasteners and oddball stuff for European cars. If you send them a little piece of it, I bet they have it. Last time I was there, I saw a number of metric hoses and lines they had out, and one of them was a dead ringer for the KLR line...
Though I'm sure any tight fitting non-pinched hose could be made to suffice.
There is a place in Belmont, CA called Global Metric. It's a small local place that sells metric fasteners and oddball stuff for European cars. If you send them a little piece of it, I bet they have it. Last time I was there, I saw a number of metric hoses and lines they had out, and one of them was a dead ringer for the KLR line...
#4
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Also a side note, I used 1/4" drip line for my engine vacuum lines. Works better the silicon. It really doesn't want to come apart once you push it onto the barbed end. And with silicon hoses having a zip tie around them tight on the barbed end, still come off much easier then the drop line does. I also use the 4 port banjo bolt from LR to send the shortest vacuum signal I can to each part, due to the fact the the 1/4" drip line is bigger in diameter inside. If you tee 1/4" off to everything from one port that's a lot of volume added up, and the vacuum signal would be less reactive. So I would only recommend this if you have one vacuum signal to part.
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/image_e79d38d3ab76a91b6ca48e1da388787a1494b999.jpg)
The red zip tie was because that banjo end needs to be replaced with a larger barbed end one. It goes to boost gage.
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/image_e5ee85bb67671e9918fbe16ab80cd938b964ba2d.jpg)
See how the 1/4" drip line fits very snug over the FPR.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
VDO makes hard line, I got few meters of it with vdo boost gauge.
#6
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...clickkey=79253
this what I used several years ago. Reuse the OE fittings and soften the tubing with a heat gun before pushing the barb into place
this what I used several years ago. Reuse the OE fittings and soften the tubing with a heat gun before pushing the barb into place
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Porsche, if you are willing to pay the price. I've been told the silicone lines have been noted to collapse during dyno testing. I've been using silicone but it was suggested I go back to the hard plastic variety.
BTW and not to steal this tread, but......I had my car on the dyno recently and used a cone filter in place of the stock turbo filter housing just because I was repairing my stock unit. The cone filter, with the car hot, and the cooling fans running, was 20 RWH less than a cold air intake. I knew the cone was not recommended but I didn't think the drop would be that much.
BTW and not to steal this tread, but......I had my car on the dyno recently and used a cone filter in place of the stock turbo filter housing just because I was repairing my stock unit. The cone filter, with the car hot, and the cooling fans running, was 20 RWH less than a cold air intake. I knew the cone was not recommended but I didn't think the drop would be that much.
#9
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Porsche offers replacement hard pipes in two different diameters. Coincidentally I just ordered both sizes for a 996 GT2 I'm rebuilding. The price is very reasonable.
4mm diameter tube 1 meter length- #000 043 205 01
5mm diameter tube 1 meter length- #900 918 005 40
4mm diameter tube 1 meter length- #000 043 205 01
5mm diameter tube 1 meter length- #900 918 005 40
#10
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Never use silicone vacuum lines for boost. They're too flexible and causes lazy regulation of boost when used with manual controllers. Sure they'll "work", but you'll get much better results with hard lines. Yeah, the plastic lines for refrigerators should be fine. Make sure the ends are sealed.