Drilled Thermostat?
01-14-2004, 02:33 AM
#31
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Northern New Jersey
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Brad Cam, I was replacing a thermostat seal on my car and was also not able to install the new one. The problem was that the rubber had dissintergrated and I was left with just the metal piece in there but at the time it looked like it was part of the housing and no matter what I tried it would not fit in there until I recognized the problem and removed the old metal seal. Tony is right. a cooler thermostat with a lower degree rad fan switch should due the trick. One other thing, running your car to cool is no good for the cylinder walls as this was a problem on a previous car that I owned when I ran it to cool. Reno
01-14-2004, 03:50 AM
#32
Burning Brakes
reno928s - I was amazed as I read your note, because thinking about this today, the situation you describe came to me!! I remembered that the piece I removed did not have the metal - so it was only the inner part of the seal and the metal part is still in there. You are absolutely right !!
Oh well, it is running consistently in the middle of the gauge, never over
the 3/4 mark (second white line) with a 83 degree t-stat and the
low-temp rad fan switch. I'll fix the seal when I replace the w-pump
soon.
Thanks for confirming my suspicion !
Oh well, it is running consistently in the middle of the gauge, never over
the 3/4 mark (second white line) with a 83 degree t-stat and the
low-temp rad fan switch. I'll fix the seal when I replace the w-pump
soon.
Thanks for confirming my suspicion !
01-14-2004, 04:55 PM
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2002
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Tom,
Tth temperature gauge is showing the coolant temp at one point in the engine. If you don't have any hot running issues, then you can rely on it giving you good info. If you're running above normal or you're seeing the gauge fluctuate quickly, then the readings will much less accurate for the engine overall as there may be hot spots away from the sensor, and those hot spots may be where a bubble has collected.
Since fixing my turbo water pump and the O-ring on the return line, my car usually runs near the white line below halfway on the gauge, and doesn't deviate above and below more than the width of the line itself. I've yet to hear the fans go to high speed, even in traffic. The fans used to go to high when in traffic and stay on longer than off. I do have a lower temp thermostat and a lower temp fan switch, but still it used to get hot in traffic, past the halfway point on the gauge, before the high speed fans turned on.
This is also without the front spoiler bottom on a 951, so it's not optimal, yet it stays cool.
Tth temperature gauge is showing the coolant temp at one point in the engine. If you don't have any hot running issues, then you can rely on it giving you good info. If you're running above normal or you're seeing the gauge fluctuate quickly, then the readings will much less accurate for the engine overall as there may be hot spots away from the sensor, and those hot spots may be where a bubble has collected.
Since fixing my turbo water pump and the O-ring on the return line, my car usually runs near the white line below halfway on the gauge, and doesn't deviate above and below more than the width of the line itself. I've yet to hear the fans go to high speed, even in traffic. The fans used to go to high when in traffic and stay on longer than off. I do have a lower temp thermostat and a lower temp fan switch, but still it used to get hot in traffic, past the halfway point on the gauge, before the high speed fans turned on.
This is also without the front spoiler bottom on a 951, so it's not optimal, yet it stays cool.