Clutch won't disengage
06-22-2015, 03:30 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Clutch won't disengage
Hi, I launch semi-hard my 944 turbo and now the clutch won't disengage when I press on the pedal. I can change gears when the car is turned off but not when the engine is running, Pedal feels a little soft (maybe) but comes back up no problem. What have I done?
I am hoping it is the hydraulics and it's a cheap and easy (master + slave cylinder) but do you guys think it might be the clutch? I haven't had a look at it yet since I need to make room in the garage to work on it. Of course I have the old style one piece crossover that adds 8 hours of work(16 hours for me) and this will probably end up being a winter project to change the stup!d clutch.
I rarely push hard off the line put the one time that I do I get this as a reminder that these cars are fragile.
Any pointers? Encouraging words? Free help in Montreal? Room and board for when the wife finds out?
I might as well fix the small leak in the oil pan and change out the timing belt while I'm there.
Financially this is a nightmare. I am just getting my head out of the water after being 6 months out of work last fall and I have to act dumb at one light to impress some kids that were filming my car and I end up paying for it... I haven't told the wife yet because she will rip me a new one and I will be living in my car.
If it is the clutch, who sells the best kit? Seem they are all about 1000$ (which means 1500$ Canadian... oh my I'm screwed). I love this car but it is testing my resolve.
I am hoping it is the hydraulics and it's a cheap and easy (master + slave cylinder) but do you guys think it might be the clutch? I haven't had a look at it yet since I need to make room in the garage to work on it. Of course I have the old style one piece crossover that adds 8 hours of work(16 hours for me) and this will probably end up being a winter project to change the stup!d clutch.
I rarely push hard off the line put the one time that I do I get this as a reminder that these cars are fragile.
Any pointers? Encouraging words? Free help in Montreal? Room and board for when the wife finds out?
I might as well fix the small leak in the oil pan and change out the timing belt while I'm there.
Financially this is a nightmare. I am just getting my head out of the water after being 6 months out of work last fall and I have to act dumb at one light to impress some kids that were filming my car and I end up paying for it... I haven't told the wife yet because she will rip me a new one and I will be living in my car.
If it is the clutch, who sells the best kit? Seem they are all about 1000$ (which means 1500$ Canadian... oh my I'm screwed). I love this car but it is testing my resolve.
06-22-2015, 05:12 PM
#2
Look in the clutch inspection window on the Bell housing right where the slave mounts. Have a 2nd person pump the clutch and watch to see if the slaves rod pushes the spoon shaped side of the fork. The slave rod should push out against the fork and the fork should force the rod back in when the clutch pedal is released. If that's all good then the throw out bearing / pressure plate might be broken. Or possiblly the guide on the inside of the bellhousing may have broken off and jammed the pressure plate from working.
06-23-2015, 12:51 PM
#4
Drifting
Check the fluid levels and look for leaks where you might be pulling air into the system. When you are checking to see if the fork is moving, inspect for leaking fluid around the slave. If the fork is moving well, then it's likely something inside the bell housing. Don't panic, everything is fixable, but it may take some time.
06-23-2015, 09:17 PM
#5
Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Montreal
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Ryan,
It might be a broken clutch fork. I broke mine last year and I couldn't disengage the clutch. When you try and start the car does it move forward?
I'm in montreal. I have a clutch disk you can have, not new by any means but if your in a financial jam then free is good. Actually I have a pressure plate, TO bearing, spare clutch fork, and flywheel, if you need one of those id sell them to you on the cheap. That said the cost of a new clutch disk is pretty cheap compared to the time you need to install it. If I recall I paid ~$130 for mine last year, which I changed when I broke my clutch fork, which is why I have a used clutch disk on hand.
If you have a garage then you should try doing it yourself. It's long, especially the first time, but not difficult. If you run into a jam I'll give you hand I've done it four times (loose springs, TO bearing, clutch fork, removed engine).
In terms of tools you don't need anything particularly expensive. Canadian tires sells the triple square drivers to remove the CV joints for like $25. You gotta remove the transmission and work your way forward. I can lend you the clutch alignment tool.
Good luck!
Where are you located in Montreal? West island?
It might be a broken clutch fork. I broke mine last year and I couldn't disengage the clutch. When you try and start the car does it move forward?
I'm in montreal. I have a clutch disk you can have, not new by any means but if your in a financial jam then free is good. Actually I have a pressure plate, TO bearing, spare clutch fork, and flywheel, if you need one of those id sell them to you on the cheap. That said the cost of a new clutch disk is pretty cheap compared to the time you need to install it. If I recall I paid ~$130 for mine last year, which I changed when I broke my clutch fork, which is why I have a used clutch disk on hand.
If you have a garage then you should try doing it yourself. It's long, especially the first time, but not difficult. If you run into a jam I'll give you hand I've done it four times (loose springs, TO bearing, clutch fork, removed engine).
In terms of tools you don't need anything particularly expensive. Canadian tires sells the triple square drivers to remove the CV joints for like $25. You gotta remove the transmission and work your way forward. I can lend you the clutch alignment tool.
Good luck!
Where are you located in Montreal? West island?
06-23-2015, 11:48 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
We had a similar issue recently. Got suddenly worse through the day at track. Thought it was a spigot bearing but wound up being the dreaded cracked clutch fork. We took it out and welded it up again. You can do this without taking the motor out of the car but probably need a hoist.
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06-24-2015, 08:07 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Yes, definitely Shawn. They got the car back to the shop in the early evening on a Saturday night and had to fix it before driving back 2.5 hours to the track for the next day's event. It held, we won. Be good to look at alternatives but this question has been raised before. Debate as to the type of metal best used for this application. Will probably stick a new stock one back in there.
and I filed it to perfection, then sand blasted to texture it
06-26-2015, 02:08 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Ryan,
It might be a broken clutch fork. I broke mine last year and I couldn't disengage the clutch. When you try and start the car does it move forward?
I'm in montreal. I have a clutch disk you can have, not new by any means but if your in a financial jam then free is good. Actually I have a pressure plate, TO bearing, spare clutch fork, and flywheel, if you need one of those id sell them to you on the cheap. That said the cost of a new clutch disk is pretty cheap compared to the time you need to install it. If I recall I paid ~$130 for mine last year, which I changed when I broke my clutch fork, which is why I have a used clutch disk on hand.
If you have a garage then you should try doing it yourself. It's long, especially the first time, but not difficult. If you run into a jam I'll give you hand I've done it four times (loose springs, TO bearing, clutch fork, removed engine).
In terms of tools you don't need anything particularly expensive. Canadian tires sells the triple square drivers to remove the CV joints for like $25. You gotta remove the transmission and work your way forward. I can lend you the clutch alignment tool.
Good luck!
Where are you located in Montreal? West island?
It might be a broken clutch fork. I broke mine last year and I couldn't disengage the clutch. When you try and start the car does it move forward?
I'm in montreal. I have a clutch disk you can have, not new by any means but if your in a financial jam then free is good. Actually I have a pressure plate, TO bearing, spare clutch fork, and flywheel, if you need one of those id sell them to you on the cheap. That said the cost of a new clutch disk is pretty cheap compared to the time you need to install it. If I recall I paid ~$130 for mine last year, which I changed when I broke my clutch fork, which is why I have a used clutch disk on hand.
If you have a garage then you should try doing it yourself. It's long, especially the first time, but not difficult. If you run into a jam I'll give you hand I've done it four times (loose springs, TO bearing, clutch fork, removed engine).
In terms of tools you don't need anything particularly expensive. Canadian tires sells the triple square drivers to remove the CV joints for like $25. You gotta remove the transmission and work your way forward. I can lend you the clutch alignment tool.
Good luck!
Where are you located in Montreal? West island?
06-28-2015, 05:16 PM
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I had this happen to me trying to launch hard slipping the clutch. My fork was not broken - my Feramic disc had fused itself to the flywheel.
I fixed it by getting the car running and driving in 2nd gear. With the clutch pedal pressed, I accelerated hard and once the RPM got close to torque peak, the engine power broke the clutch disc free. Since then, clutch operation was normal.
Hope this helps.
I fixed it by getting the car running and driving in 2nd gear. With the clutch pedal pressed, I accelerated hard and once the RPM got close to torque peak, the engine power broke the clutch disc free. Since then, clutch operation was normal.
Hope this helps.
06-29-2015, 01:40 PM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
I had this happen to me trying to launch hard slipping the clutch. My fork was not broken - my Feramic disc had fused itself to the flywheel.
I fixed it by getting the car running and driving in 2nd gear. With the clutch pedal pressed, I accelerated hard and once the RPM got close to torque peak, the engine power broke the clutch disc free. Since then, clutch operation was normal.
Hope this helps.
I fixed it by getting the car running and driving in 2nd gear. With the clutch pedal pressed, I accelerated hard and once the RPM got close to torque peak, the engine power broke the clutch disc free. Since then, clutch operation was normal.
Hope this helps.